I’d cut them out and let my apricot have the energy. But you might also be able to separate them from the main rootstock and graft to them.
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I found the answer to my own question. Just for info…
Control temperature /give shade – If your tree is in a pot, ensure the location is not in direct sun for the first summer. If you’ve chosen to plant your tree directly into the ground, shade protection will help prevent heat-kill of cell tissue on the new graft
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Do you guys think this graft is having some kind of problem? The growing tip withered and the last couple leaves fell off. I’m wondering if I should perhaps prune it back to healthy looking tissue. Opinions?
I’m pretty sure this is a W&T graft of Callville (though it might be Karmijn), put on Tydeman’s Late Orange about 8 weeks ago. Same graft on the left side is still looking good.
I counted last night…i found (at least) 7 peach buds that have grown out from chip budding last summer. I have no idea how many i placed… I did have some seedlings that were budded that the voles killed. I think the success rate is pretty good. I’m almost tempted to bud a few now and force them yet this summer.
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That great. I plan to do some budding this summer to replace the failed grafts I had this spring. Unfortunately I will have far less selection of bud wood to choose from so it may not even be worth it.
If that brown bark is dried (wrinkled looking) and dying very good chance the graft wont make it. So many things can happen to new growth (easy target for both critters, disease and environmental stresses) that I dont worry about the graft if it only has some lost leaves. Bark is generally a better indication I have found.
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@Chills, I think Parafilm M is the best kind, for me anyway. I also use the kind especially for grafting, but it breaks more easily, so I have to be much more careful with it.
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Raintree sells multigrafted European plum on seedling peach rootstock. I’ve grafted over unhealthy peach trees to European plums, and the plum grafts are much healthier than the peach was.
I have a peach tree that is getting too tall, which I’ll probably start converting next spring.
The sealant is still firm and the union might actually be calloused over, but the early signs of potential growth have halted
I have them wrapped in clingwrap now, which isn’t working at all
I suspect the scions were too old or something
Would like to try budding this summer
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Thanks Turkey. I scratched the bark on that growth this morning and it was all tough and dry. So it’s not looking good I guess 
There is another bud growing with leaves out from under the parafilm closer to the union, so I’m going to hold out hope as long as possible for that to come through rather than admit defeat. I thought I had it made on that graft, since it already grew out like 20cm and has not suffered any sudden damage. Ah well, another way in which growing fruit trees is a good way of making sure I don’t mistakenly come to the conclusion that I have things all figured out!
I’ve got an unexpected grafting question. I had a Lodi apple which I had ordered for a neighbor, but she moved before it came and so I planted it last spring. It was doing well, but I already had 2 Lodi’s so I cut the top off and cleft grafted it this spring. At the time, I couldn’t decide between Winter Banana and Pristine, so I did one of each, figuring nature would decide which it should be. Well it’s 3 weeks later and looks like both scions are growing (so much for me being the only indecisive one 
).
So I am wondering if I still will need to make a decision at some point, which scion to keep and which to cut out, or if it is possible to keep them both going and have a multi-variety tree. I’d like to keep them both if possible, but it seems that the two scions in a cleft graft may not make for a long term good union. Any thoughts on doing this so that it might work?
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You can leave both cleft (or bark)grafted scions to grow on your tree, depending on the height of the graft and your plans for the future form of said tree…
Here is an example of a tree where I left both scions to grow, one scion I let both buds produce shoots that I trained as the bottom scaffolds, the other scion I left one growth point that was allowed to grow straight up.
Other view of seedling volunteer apple tree top worked to Baldwin six years aago.
<img src="/uploads/default/original/2X/0/00ddcf4f10e31b0ebd6d3c6f73bbb4646a526dfa.jpg" width=“690” height="38
I will most likely prune these two limbs out eventually, I have some crowding issues and but will have enjoyed some fruit from them in the meantime.
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I did some tree surgery today. The top blew out of my “The Rising Sun” Redbud. So I said: what the heck, I might as well attempt to repair it with some grafts.
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@JesseS Thanks.
Good to see it is possible to have both scions grow and co-exist. Now I just have to wait and see if they will continue to grow…
I notice the tape was busting off a side graft I played around with earlier this year. Lots of callus formation. Ultimately the scion is at a bad angle. I did 4 side grafts and they are all growing prolifically. But in all 4 cases the crotch angle is not ideal. Makes much more sense to just throw a chip bud in the same location and get new growth that you can control. The waxy stuff is toilet ring wax and the graft is ashmeads kernel grafted onto Chehalis apple
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This post reminds me that I have a sucessful budding from last summer that’s growing well, but I want to correct the angle
Would it be too soon to put the strain on it, or better to wait til next year?
In my view it depends on the grafting technique you used and the apparent solidity of the union.
With bark grafts i start bending the new branches very early.
An example: Apple tree grafted in March and in June /July i began bending the new branches.
A graft done in March 2015, in June 2016:
But with bud grafts, like T-Budding or Chip-Budding i would not risk it.
I’d be careful. Maybe a gentle bend would be fine…especially after a month or more… i’ve never tried it but i should think of trying it.
Better safe …