What IS it with cherries, then? I feel like I’m missing part of the fruit set equation. Lapins should set for me here - it doesn’t require high CHs, 400 or less, which I get on my property. It must be a set of criteria that all have to be met together, for fruit set or non-abort. Sigh…
If its anything like nectarines (which are finally starting to set ok), maybe they need many many years before the set really starts happening? Maybe its Gods way of keeping us in the west humble? As I watch all that eastern growers go thru to get a crop at all, I can only be grateful for my set of tiny issues.
I’ve hung onto cherry trees far longer than anything else with no improvement. I really can’t see that as being our salvation. Blame the powers that be, maybe that has merit.
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BTW, now that bloom is wrapping up I can say…what a utter disappointment. These MR/RL zieger trees are just a real waste of time in my area.
After 4 years of nurture and all kinds of extraordinary effort im gonna net a couple handfulls of cherries off all our trees.
I’m sorry to hear that. It does make me glad I never tried them.
Wow, that’s bad news. After 4 years in the ground in the Rancho Penasquitos area of San Diego, we were harvesting 2-3 gallons of cherries per week from one pair of trees.
Eric, it has taken me six years to get cherries on my MR and RL. This is the FIRST YEAR I will have cherries - a real crop. Both trees set at about 80 to 95%. I’ve never seen anything like it. And so far, knocking on every single piece of wood I can find, nothing significant appears to be aborting. I could end up with gallons and gallons of cherries. More than I can possibly eat, which is saying a lot, because I can put down a lot of cherries (sad to say). Planted them in January 2011. They’re on Colt, which I know is a different rootstock than you’re using. I would say, give it one or two more years, Eric. I said the exact same thing you said at year 4. I had tons of blossoms, no real set. Then, in year 5, I had decent set, and everything (100%) aborted. This year, looks like everything will make it through to maturity that has set, with almost no aborting.
Patty S.
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Yup.
When/If I ever get gallons and gallons of cherries we will be dancing in the street.
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Hi all, I am new to fruit tree growing. After adding a bunch or fruit trees last year to my property (Lake San Marcos, CA) and really enjoying the process, I added a few more this year. I didn’t have any cherry trees so, after reading about this new type I went on a hunt for it and tracked one down. It was a “whip” like Richard’s. Leafed out nicely and I just planted it a couple weeks ago in a spot I think should be really good.
My question is: I have never bought a tree so young/undeveloped… I would imagine to get it to become a nice shape it should be pruned–is that correct and should it be next fall? Any particular pruning style recommended or tips? The rootstock suggests potential for a large tree.
See “How to prune fruit trees” by Martin.
Take a look at this publication by Oregon State University, I find it very useful:
https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/supplemental/pnw667/pnw667print_0.pdf
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Planted in the ground today!
Richard,
What’s the status on your Royal Crimson cherry. Ive decided to
bite the bullet and have one on order from Peaceful Valley. This
is my first attempt with growing cherries here in zone 8 SC. I know
that cherries don’t do well in our heat, but a friend has coerced me
into being a guinea pig. Am i wasting my time?
Thanks
Ray
Mine is still a young tree and I hope to see a few dozen blossoms this year.
This line of cherry is a late spring producer so I’m guessing your humid summer won’t mess with the fruit.
Thanks, now I’ll have to hope I get around March freezes.
This cherry must replicate Spring Satin plumcot, which ripens
here in May.
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Any updates for us Richard? I’m thinking about getting this tree at Walter Anderson next bareroot season.
I’d prefer it on Colt instead of Mazzard rootstock.
