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Did I say GO BUCKEYES 
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Best to find out what the rated pressure is for your tires, then use an auto-type tire gauge to take a reading and see. If you have fluid in the tires for weight, you want to roll the tire until the air filler thingie is at the top. That way there will be some air there to measure, if the stem is lower youāll be pulling fluid out when you try to test.
I have not found weather to have any more effect on tractor tires than they do on auto tires. All loose some pressure as the temps fall.If a tire was on the low end in the summer it can easily get very low on a really cold day.
Iād trust your gut on this, if you are seeing the tire(s) as lower than before they likely are. Time to get the air tank and pressure gauge out. Oh and keep in mind, if you fill them up when itās 0F out, you will likely need to let some air out once temps get higher. (not a bad idea for the cars too).
And Iād second BobCās comments, low tires can be dangerous if you are using your front loader.
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Thanks. To be honest I donāt recall how low/high they were in the summer. I just assumed they were fine then, so I need to be more diligent about them, just like oil and other fluids. I just happened to look down at them as I backed the tractor into the barn yesterday.
Good call on getting the valve on top before checking the pressure, and not letting out any fluid. I called my BIL and he has a pump I could use if need be. Itās supposed to get colder (single digit lows) next week, so I prob wonāt be messing with the tractor then.
I donāt have a loader on my rig, so no worries about the front tires.
Have you had your rig out in this cold lately?
Have not had my tractor running since I parked it a few months ago. It been unusually warm (most of the time) this fall, and we have not gotten enough snow to make the tractor necessary. I did put the battery charger on it last week right before a recent cold snap, but that storm missed us for the most part (2" of snow), so yet again did not need the tractor.
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If you have radials, they wonāt show any increase at all with higher pressure, unless they are super low. Radials are designed to keep the same circumference pretty much regardless of pressure (unless they are really low). Biased tires show low air a lot better.
Also I wouldnāt run fluid in tires on a chore tractor. It just causes the rims to rust out, and is not much (if any) benefit on a chore tractor. I drive in a lot of mud with mine, and prefer the lighter weight of non-ballasted tires. It helps me āfloatā a little better on top of the mud.
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I checked the battery voltages again, they both are at 12.30V, so not as low as I had thought. But, at that voltage, itās still at about 50-60% charge. Saying that, they could still stand a bit of a recharge.
How can you tell if you have bias or radial tires? All the info I could get on them is that they are Alliance 16.90-28 Power Drive tires.
Mine have radial printed on the tires. Itās possible some may just have an āRā somewhere in the size printed on the tires. If it doesnāt say āRadialā, or have an āRā, they are biased tires. Most people put biased tires on chore tractors because they are cheaper, but they sell radials for pretty much any sized tractor.
I only put radials on mine because of some technical issues regarding the forward assist. Radials mostly help with traction and fuel efficiency in planting row crops. They really arenāt much advantage with chore tractors.
My wife needed something out of the cellar down the hill, so I had an excuse to go out to the barn and check the tires again. This is what the tire really has on it: Alliance 14.9-13-28 358 R-1 Power Drive. So I guess that means itās a radial.
You mentioned radials wonāt show any increase with higher pressure, unless theyāre super low. Would that mean that if this tire looks low then itās really low?
Looks like Iāll need to get some air in it before it gets too low. The tire is rolled over so that the valve stem is on the bottom (that figures), so Iāll need to crank up the rig to roll it around to the top.
Well, armed with all the data on the tire, and checking online, I came up with this:
https://www.farmtirewarehouse.com/tires/view/130472/alliance-358-bias-r-1-14-9-28/
So, the R-1 doesnāt mean itās radial, it only means itās a standard field tire, for use in mostly dry conditions. And the BIAS in the title kinda seals the matter.
Anyways, Iām done with this for now. Iāll get some air in it when it warms up a bit. Looking at single digit lows all week. I will get the batteries charged up, tho.
Thanks for all the replies.
Thatās right. I should have mentioned that. R-1 is the general (multipurpose) tractor tire tread. Along with R-2, and other R designations followed by a number or a number and a letter, which are all designations for tread depth and spacing.
If the tires were radial, they would say something like 14.9R28.
If your bias tires look low, they probably are. Tires lose a little pressure every year, even if they donāt have any leaks. Air leaks through the sidewall, just like air eventually leaks out of the walls of a balloon.
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Sooooooooo. Evan after buying a 55 horse tractor I still found my work was much tougher and heavier duty than expected. If you have read this thread you are aware I had some issues with my Mahindra. I am happy to say once fixed I had no more troubles with the 2555. Very nice tractor. But anyway. I took an opportunity to get full trade and 2 percent better interest rate. So I bought the M power 75. Full size tractor. 75 horse. Less frills than the 2555 but a much bigger more powerful tractor. So far very happy. I went with a new woods mower too!
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Soā¦ I have a lot of saplings and small trees. Some larger trees too that must go. Itās VERY hard on my new mower to drive over and cut them down. I also have stumps some of which are hidden in the trees and brush. I saw this implement and really think itāll get the job done with out tearing my other equipment up.
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Did you buy it or rent it?
Bought it. Iāll be using it for many years at this place.
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Now thatās a hoss tractor, 75hp! Hope it works out well for ya. Standard shift or auto? Looks like 4wd as well? Nice loader, mower and that tree extractor is a beast.
We have lots of 1-3" diameter saplings around the farm Iād like to get rid of, but like you, I worry about them damaging my bush hog blade. I think the one inchers are OK, but I try to avoid the bigger ones.
I have a lot of bush-hogging to do before spring starts in earnest and everything turns into a jungle. It looks pretty unassuming now, so I need to get after it. Itās just been so wet and cold the last few weeks, so have to wait for it to dry out.
Are things still dormant there, or are they waking up?
Seems things are waking up here. Seeing buds and growth in a lot of places. No massive pollen attacks yet but not far away. Itās a shuttle shift. Forward-reverse lever. Clutch. Low,medium,high times 4 speed. 12 forward 12 reverse. Yes it is 4 wheel drive and has a foot pedal driven rear differential lock. Very strong tractor. I hope it stays this way. So far itās been all Iāll ever need.
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Good solid 5 hours of steady rain today. Should be very good for things.
Do you have allergy issues? So far Iāve been alright in that category, but last summer it was very warm and humid, so it was kind of a problem for me.
12 gears forward and back, that should be enough for you. Wish I had 4wd on my tractor, Iād like to plow our steep driveway when we get these snows. Iām a bit leery about getting out there on a snowy hillside.
I know this is the tractor thread, but how are all your new trees doing?