I have not but will keep an eye out for them.
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I had that issue one year when I was growing seedlings. It doesn’t seem to be an issue on older leaves. As soon as I see ants on young persimmon seedlings, I spray with Permethrin.
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I noticed persimmon psylla here in NJ for about two weeks now. Leaves already started to curl. I sprayed malathion about a week ago. Usually keeps them at bay for a couple weeks.
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TIP: Check under your aluminum foil heat shields for rootstock sprouts! They hide under there. I missed one and looks it caused the graft on that branch to fail. But looks like at least two other grafts are taking- Chocolate and Maekawa Jiro. These will be my first successful persimmon grafts ever. Finally.
Keys to these successful grafts are tips I picked up here from you all over the winter about grafting late, cut off a substantial portion of rootstock, no nurse limbs, religious dis-budding, heat shields. Thanks for all those tips.
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I have a ten year old San Pedro kaki grafted on American roots. Taste is nothing to write home about, probably why you rarely hear about San Pedro (from Ed. L.)
Can I topwork American var. on the kaki trunk? Does American graft ok on kaki?
Should I leave nurse limbs or can I top-work the entire tree all at once?
Thanks
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Yes.
I’ve never bothered with nurse limbs and have had good success, even with larger trees that I’ve cut back for rootstock.
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Has anyone successfully grafted just one or two branches of a larger persimmon tree?
I want to graft a limb or two of Saijo on to my five year old Fuyugaki, about six feet tall. In other words, convert about 25% of the Fuyu to Saijo.
How do I get enough vigor to the Saijo grafts to prevent the Fuyu understock from simply sending all the sap/vigor to the existing Fuyu branches and starving out the grafts? I know about disbudding rootstock sprouts daily, not talking about that.
Expert persimmon grafters here say: do not leave nurse limbs because you need to force maximum vigor to the grafts. Topworking only 25% is like leaving 75% nurse limbs it seems to me.
I have a seedling tree I got from Oikos (supposedly grown from selected parent trees) that I grafted over one lower branch to ‘Szukiis’ this this past spring. It didn’t grow very much but set a fruit, my first ever. I examined the graft after the leaves dropped from the tree and found it was dead😐- perhaps the remaining growth(95%) that I left on the tree starved out the graft? Anyways, I’m keen on this tree, 5 yrs old and it has demonstrated cold hardiness with zero dieback, so Im content to let it be and just hope it’s a girl and ripens fruit here in my short season.
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Here is my multi bark grafted hybrids persimmon with 4 different hybrid varieties on a 8 years old Nikita’s Gift persimmon tree. Hambone, the most important thing you got to do with persimmon grafts are to rub off all the new growth below the graft every 2 to 3 days or else the grafts will die peroid. I don’t use the nurse branch and my grafts did fine.
Tony
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Hi Tony- If you did not leave any nurse branches I already know that works. But what I’d like to know is if I can just graft a branch or two and leave all other existing branches. I know all about daily disbudding, that’ s not the problem here.
In other words, with persimmons, does partial top-working work? Or is it all or nothing- 100% topworking or forgetaboutit?
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I left the largest branch of the Nikita’s Gift as one of the hybrid varieties. No sweat. It works fine. Don’t think too hard. Just grafted them and watch them grow.
Tony
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All of my previous persimmon grafts failed when I left any nurse branches. Scott seemed to think nurse branches caused a problem on hard to graft persimmon. I’m not going to butcher my Fuyu if partial topworking is a long shot.
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What graft technique are you using? Sun protection of the graft? Did any of the grafts push buds or leafed out? I used to do cleft grafts and they worked great but I now I do the simple bark graft which only takes about 5 minutes with high percentage of take. I just have to braced them to prevent winds and birds breakage. I remembered reading threads that said it is very hard to do a multi grafted American persimmon tree and I proved them wrong by putting eight varieties of American persimmon on my Meader persimmon tree and it still going strong after 8 years without any self pruning.
Tony
http://growingfruit.org/uploads/default/original/2X/a/a05cf5197fda7e9948c155a7850e6de16d9131ed.jpg
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Tony- Thanks. I use bark grafts with sun shield, parafilm all the way up, all the tricks. Looking back I suspect my mistake was grafting too far out on laterals, too far away from leader, so that the tree did not respond with vigor at the graft.
I need to graft in more dominant positions either on the leader or on a lateral not far from the leader. Need to cut off more of the tree to get a good response. I was grafting too far from the major sap flow and on branches too horizontal. That’s my best analysis.
But there’s more going on than that- even when I totally beheaded a native rootstock at 3 feet and did three perfect bark grafts, only one took.
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I think my graft eventually failed because it was in a non-dominant position, shaded, and maybe because it produced a fruit?
Jesse,
It maybe OK if you prune off all the branches around it to get more sun light in. In addition, you can prune off some of the larger branches below the graft so it can get more sap flow.
Tony
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Yes! This may be the secret to partial topworking persimmon, at least from what I’ve witnessed.
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