Budding tape

While we’re throwing out ‘alternatives’, I have a friend who recounted following her grandfather grafting apples back in the last century… he would bind the graft union with cotton string, then slather the union and scion with a healthy covering of slightly-thicker-than-soupy cow manure, fresh from one of the farm’s dairy cows. Anyone who’s stepped in a cowpie knows that they usually sort of get a dry, protective crust… but are still moist underneath for quite some time.
I suspect that the cow manure helped seal in moisture…and probably there were some antifungal properties, as well. And… apples/pears callus in pretty rapidly.

I’ve wrapped Parafilm over or under my budding rubbers… doesn’t make much difference which order you do it in. I used to purchase red budding/grafting rubbers, but after Mellingers went out of business, I couldn’t find them affordably, and just switched to the widest office-supply store rubber bands I could find. They work just fine, and do degrade pretty quickly with UV exposure.

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I use the word “scion” for the piece I’m stealing from one source to place elsewhere. Any branch or stick that will succeed is good, and water sprouts and suckers make good scions.

As a rule good scions are from last year’s growth, are roughly the diameter of a pencil, have well-defined dormant buds that are nicely spaced, i.e., not too close to one another, and which have not been allowed to dry out.

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The last roll of budding tape I bought was from Peach Tree Orchard Supply. Not expensive at all.

Can you tell me why you cut the tape in 1/2 instead of using it as is?

Buddy tape is different from budding tape. Buddy tape is supposed to be much better, at least many say it is, I have not used it. I will give it a try though. It also comes with a roll of tying tape that looks good. I myself don’t like the rubber electrical tape. I find it sticks good, and for me does not rot off fast enough for my liking. The wood cannot breath through it, so I would prefer it was gone by the end of the season. My experience is a mess at the end of the season with this rubber tape. I tried putting it n backwards, not as bad but still not acceptable. It does not want to come off sticky side either way. Hard to remove without breaking the graft. Here it does not break down for about 2 years. Way to long for my liking. Maybe in hotter environments it breaks down faster. Anyway i won’t ever use it again. I prefer a tape that does not stick. I don’t mind cutting it off, prefer to have tape like this as it comes off super easy and tends not to discolor wood. Now I have clear tying tape, and I think I will probably love it. Comes with Buddy tape. We will see this next grafting season.

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Yeah. As you use it you’ll see that the 3/4" tape is too wide, for most grafts. Cutting it in half is about ideal for wrapping (and not coincidentally, the same size as budding rubbers). I have used the 3/4’ width for really big grafts, but for pencil sized grafts, I like half the width. As a bonus it makes the roll last longer. It’s a 7’ roll, but by the time you stretch, it’s double, then when you slice it in half, it’s double again. So a $2.50 roll ends up being a long roll.

This is different than regular electrical vinyl tape which a lot of people use. As Drew sort of alludes based upon his comments, I think he’s referring to the the electrical vinyl tape which has a sticky side and a non sticky side. Many people on the forum wrap the black vinyl tape backwards, as Drew mentions, but what I am referring to here (and the rolls you bought) are the true rubber electrical tape. It doesn’t have a sticky side. Neither side has adhesive. Because it’s so stretchy, it will not girdle.

It’s like 10 times the cost of vinyl electrical tape per roll, but still reasonable at $2.5-$3 per roll. Since it doesn’t have any adhesive, it sticks either side. Being black, I especially like it because it absorbs and transfers heat to the union, in colder grafting conditions, vs. clear tape. The downside of course is that it can heat the union up too much, which may require some aluminum foil wrap.

Again, I’m not willing to fall on my sword based on the type of wrapping to use, just that I like the Temflex. I’ve done a lot of grafts over the last 10 years, and tried lots of materials (masking tape, vinyl electrical tape, plastic, etc.) and once someone recommended the Temflex, I fell in love with it.

Honestly, I haven’t tried the Buddy tape, but it’s about 10 times the cost of rubber tape, and doesn’t have the benefit of black to absorb heat, so I haven’t been that excited to try it. It’s basically clear stretchy tape. Probably no different that Parafilm, though from the experience of other users, it doesn’t break down as fast. As mentioned, I use Temflex for wrapping strength and Parafilm M for moisture seal.

I do quite a bit of grafts per year the last few years, and pretty comfortable with my system (but I do mostly budding). For the last few years I’ve successfully budded/grafted about 50 peach trees per year (and sold the extra) on rootstocks. I’ve found this is much harder than grafting to existing mature peach trees to add varieties, so I’m pretty comfortable with the supplies I use. I’m probably not any better than other folks who graft a lot of peaches here, but I’m probably not any worse either.

@Barkslip mentioned a tool in a thread which garnered my attention because it seemed to produce such clean, effortless cuts for I bought it because for 30 bucks seemed like a no-brainer. I haven’t used it in the field yet, only in practice. But, so far, it strikes me as as one of the cleanest cutting easy to use tools I’ve seen. Based on practice, it gives perfect matches every time, which is more important than various wrapping materials (although wrapping materials can increase success, imo.)

As an FYI, here is some notes from large peach nurseries who graft. It’s just based on informal telephone conversations of large nursery growers (some mentioned frequently here) but sometimes that’s some of the best info.

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Golden delicious and delicious apples really are good apples fresh off the
tree in September at the peak of flavor. Last good one I had was in Wenatchee, WA. Cold
storage really kills them.

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I was talking about a rubber tape, but it must have been different from what Olpea mentions. I’m not even sure I’ll like the buddy tape? We will see, Plus that replaces parafilm, not the rubber tying tape. The buddy tape comes with a clear roll of tying tape, so you can see under it, that’s cool to start. See how that performs too. I suggest experimenting with different material and see what you like. The cost here for buddy is high so I['m only using it on peaches. I have 4 peach trees and 4 plum trees. Once trees are filled with grafts I don’t really have plans to do more. This is something I will not be doing for years and years. Even if I do, not like I’m going to do that many grafts in one year.With plums and figs that are easier trees to graft, buddy tape seems overkill for the price. Any leftover buddy tape will be used on figs and maybe plums to experiment with it. Buddy tape is said to keep a scion moist a lot longer than parafilm will. This gives the scion more time to bond. I’m having success with parafilm and other materials, I’m just trying to increase it with peaches. I got 95% takes on plums last year, but not peaches, and I think it’s not the graft, peach scion need more time so more susceptible to drying out, which I think is the culprit?. Hoping buddy tape will take care of that, or at least eliminate drying as the issue. This is my 4th year grafting peaches. i should have been done by now, if the buddy tapes gives me 3 out of 4 instead of 1 or 2 out of four, the price is cheap. I’m not a young man, time is in limited quantities, so I’m not concerned about a few extra bucks to get this done.

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Yes, I think a big part of it is figuring out which materials work for you, in your climate. Here, scions wrapped in buddy tape with the graft union wrapped in black electrical tape works fantastically. To me, in my climate, buddy tape is vastly superior to parafilm. How do yall even use that stuff, it barely stretches! Thanks to our big temperature swings, scions drying out is the #1 cause of graft failure, and buddy tape solves that problem. The electrical tape has not presented any problems for me. Just take it off at the end of the season.
But… I did some grafting for an orchard in australia and was told not to use black tape, as the super high summer temps would kill the graft. So, everyone’s grafting “system” is going to be different.

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Parafilm Question:
I ordered my first roll of parafilm tape. This forum is my first ever experience with starting cuttings from my plants. So using this tape was completely new ‘news’ to me. I was surprised to find that it had no ‘sticky’ to it.
So how do you keep it from unrolling? Tape the end with Scotch Tape?

Putting a rubber band around it works, or maybe indent the end with your thumbnail, or just pull it very snug against the roll.

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thanks, Mark.

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If it is unrolling something is wrong. It dried out. I keep mine in a sealed plastic bag to prevent drying, it is like wax, it should not just uncoil. I have never ever had that happen. OK, now that I said that my next roll will! Really maybe it was compressed in shipping, but I never had them unroll, it sticks to itself rather well. It may be how I stretch it too. I stench as I layer scion, with tape attached to roll. I don’t take a piece off and stretch it. At times I do need to remove a piece to apply correctly, in field work. I still stretch as I apply and do not pre-stretch it. I find I can get a more even application that way.
I don’t secure it to scion either, it stay where put. if it breaks while applying it does make a flap, I just put a layer over it. I overlap it a lot too, so most of the scion has two (or more) coats of the tape. Don’t be stingy with the tape.

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You should make a quick video of each step.

As you stretch it in applying it sticks to itself. Kinda like Saran or cling film but moreso because of the waxiness than static cling. It just melds into itself. Play with a piece of it before you start wrapping scion.

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I don’t find whip and tongue very easy to pull off. If you have a big understock a rind graft is great. If the tree understock is about the same size as the scion a cleft graft works good for me. I always have trouble with splice moving when I tape it up and I never made a whip and tongue that I could get to line up very good

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Kate,

You may be aware, but there are different kinds of parafilm. I’ve read several folks who didn’t like the Parafilm grafting tape, so I’ve never tried that. I use the Parafilm M which is 2" wide. I like it because it prevents desiccation, but “breathes” some (probably like Buddy tape in that regard). It’s not super stretchy, but it does stretch reasonably well by my standards. If a roll gets too old it won’t stretch very well at all, and just breaks. That’s happened to me, but I ended using the roll up anyway. Like Drew, I keep it in a bag to prevent it from “drying out” so fast.

Last fall I ran out of Parafilm (but not Temflex) so in a pinch I used some packing paper I happened to have in the pickup to finish up grafting. I used the paper over the grafts, just like it was Parafilm to try to conserve some moisture. It ended up working OK, but I ordered a new roll of Parafilm.

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Picked up a couple rolls today at Lowe’s. Will give it a shot.

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I haven’t experimented with it yet, on a real scion - just played with it a bit and noticed that it doesn’t really stretch well enough to imagine the buds pushing through it. ? It is supposed to be REAL parafilm / original or whatever . . . but it sure doesn’t seem to stick to itself. Hmmmmm. Maybe it’s not the same thing that you all are using.
I’ll work with it on a real cutting, and see what happens. Meanwhile, I’ve been going the ‘misting route’.
I’m not expecting much out of my first attempt at all of this . . . If I get even one to root, out of the 6 I have in pots - I’ll be happy ! :smile:

This is what I use. It can stretch well. I wrap my scionwood and store it that way until grafting time.

d

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