Tiger,
How old is your Che tree?
Update: Nevermind; I see you got it in 2014. Sorry.
I got it in 2014 but it has had its issues. Planted it in the spring of 2014 and it almost died so I pulled it up and potted it. It stayed in the pot and recovered and was replanted that winter in a new location. It did ok last year but most of the growth is from this year. This plant needs more nitrogen than my other plants, whether that’s due to my soil at the location planted or the plant itself I don’t know.
This is what the leaves looked like last year.
They started out like that again this year but extra urea quickly fixed the problem. I see this in some other peoples pictures from time to time which makes me think it is the tree that needs more nitrogen. It is hard to tell but @hoosierquilt tree looks like maybe the top left leaf has some yellow spots like mine. Mine is starting to look bad again but I don’t fertilize after July.
Back to your question, it was bought in 2014 but most of the growth is from this year.
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Mine also seems to have yellowing leaves.
fruit is still hanging. They seem to have almost doubled in size over the past 2 weeks. I don’t dare fertilize while fruit is hanging
Scott
Edit: I did go out and added some holly tone to adjust the ph so that iron may more easily be absorbed.
yours look great…mine still look like a cherry seed
I can’t help but think the ph/nutrients are off on these trees. My Che tree (EL) hasn’t grown much at all since late May.
i have the oposite problem.my has not stoped to grow.as i sayed ,i had to prune it because it was geting to tall.and since late june it has growed more than 1,5m tall and 80cm on the side shoot.i f only the fruits looked that good😑
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What’s your soil PH?
i have no idea.i just use some earth that i got from a super market ,and the use just a litle of fertilizer.and lots of whater
Mine are nearing small cherry size.
Mine do have a shorter season too. First frost is usually within the first few weeks of October
Scott
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My Che is covered again this year. It’s a really healthy tree with growth Pattern I like. Not 4 years in ground yet and with a few aggressive branches probably reaching 12 feet, but with a low nice canopy. If I had not been pruning back these leaders for a couple years would likely be 20 foot. This pictures taken awhile back fruit has sized up a little more and some starting to show some color.
What I am kind of excited about is after several attempts to root cuttings I think I might have limited success this year. I had tried a few manners with and without hormone from pre-rooting in damp Sphagnum to just sticking in dirt. I felt confident it would happen as the pre-rooting would develop a callus. This year as last I simply mass stuck dormant cuttings in a pot with a heavy mix kept shaded and watered occasionally. I have a couple that appear to putting out growth as opposed to just hanging on to a couple leaves. I hear it’s a better plant on Osage Orange Like my others are grafted to why bother? I guess just to see, and curious if anyone else is growing them on own root.
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Phil,
Looks good. You have got some rooted.
Tony
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strudel,
I’ve no personal experience with Che on its own roots, but a friend down on the MS/LA line says it will produce a dense forest of thorny suckers that you’d need a bulldozer to get through…
It’s interesting that yours seem to be clustered in 4’s. Mine are almost exclusively in pairs (with the remainder being singles)
Do you have a male pollinator?
Scott
No pollinator and my trees originate from a single scion. I am pretty rural and I doubt they is another within many miles. The fruits are in clusters and often greater than 4 probably up to a dozen. In the boring linked video I did today at the end it shows a larger cluster. Sorry for my poor Cinematography skills and the low volume.
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Mine does not have fruit clusters like that even before fruit drop.
I heard the same thing about rooted cuttings as Lucky P. They tend to sucker very badly if not grafted. Anyone growing Noris? I’m getting it this fall. It’s supposed to make larger and tastier fruit than EL’s seedless and is self fertile and seedless also.
Yes I have heard that Che on own root is harder to grow in tree form, I think that was from you @Lucky_P on GW before, but I didn’t remember suckering was just thinking more a bush growth. If it suckers as bad as my Jujube that froze back I will not care for that. I will not be giving them prime real estate if it does survive. My grafted tree had nasty thorns for a couple years, but not anymore. I know JF&E lists Norris. I am not sure if the tree they have in ground there is Norris, but I prefer the one I grow to it at least the one time I sampled it and the fruit was no bigger and didn’t appear as productive, but don’t remember if that tree was Norris or Darrow and It might have been picked heavy already.
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Went out today and noticed that there are a lot of drops 
we’ve been very hot the last week and had little rain. Mi watered heavily and hope what remains ripens.
Interestingly, the dropped fruit are almost overwhelmingly blushed a peachy-orange, while fruit remaining on the tree is still green.
These dropped fruits are very hard and latex-y tasting.
Scott
it can be hard to belive but after cheking for a week i notice that mine is now growing 5cm (2inches) every day.it should slow down but we are having a heat wave in portugal. i dont fertilize for 2 months now but it does not make any diference.
so i have over 2m (79inches) of growth ( so far) just from june.
i just ask myself how tall will get whem finaly stop growing