RAF,
Thanks for that infos on the short internodes mulberry.
Clark,
Here is the photo of the 3 weeks old rooted Male Che cuttings from Hidden Spring Nursery.
Tony
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Those look excellent! I can’t wait to see them later! They are growing very good.
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looking at the pictures here, appears to me hidden springs nursery is one awesome nursery. Their amazingly reasonable prices often made me wonder if they might have the same business model as willis’ nursery, but evidently cheap does not always translate to fool’s gold.
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That ‘Norris’ Che at JF&E would have originated from the ortet, planted at the Norris Dam on the Clinch River, a TVA site over in east Tennessee. I’ve seen photos that Cliff England sent, of that Che and a bunch of seedling jujubes that were planted at the Norris site, probably back in the 1930s era.
I can’t recall who sent me my original Che scions… either came from a friend on the TN/VA border or another one in MS… not sure where either one got their start from.
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Thanks for the background on them Lucky.
Now the Che and Osage orange grafts are doing great for about 4 weeks. My prediction is that they are compatible to mulberry understocks. So far a total of 15 grafts are doing great and that is a 100% took. I will take more photos each week to keep you guys updated. I also included a couple of Pakistan Mulberry grafts.
Tony
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I’m glad you and Clark are testing the boundaries but, I think it’s a little early to call those successful grafts. Sorry to be pessimistic but, I have found mulberry to have compatibility issues. I was sadly not able to successfully graft weeping (white) mulberry to red Mulberry. Pakistan Mulberry will not enjoy Omaha Winters.
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This is great news if it holds out. I remember passing over some che scion at the last swap, but if it can grow on mulberry, I’ll definitely pick some up next time. Kind of surprised that folks would have tried it on osage before mulberry, though.
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Tony,
Grafts look really good. I will post pictures soon.
39thparallel,
Your right It is to early to say about the grafts only time will tell.
Looks great! From the second and third picture, Tony, it sort of looks like you’ve got a lake or river behind your house. Hard to tell though.
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These is a creek called Deercreek. So I do have lots of deers. So I installed the deer fence in the background.
Tony
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39th, I hope that I don’t have the compatibility issues you mentioned with some mulberry grafts I made putting Illinois Everbearing on morus alba stock. How long did it take for you to realize yours didn’t take? Mine seem to be okay thus far… IE is a hybrid m alba- m rubra , hope that makes the difference.
Clark, Tony- thanks for sharing this experiment, chimeras are interesting beasts!
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I know that white and red mulberry can hybridize so I don’t know why they should not be graft compatible. I noticed bud swell etc but after 4 weeks they have not leafed out.
JesseS,
These are the latest pictures I took today of the che on mulberry grafts I made 19 days ago…
<img src="/uploads/default/original/2X/9/9a7a6f6e774c1b54094572df368db2ad9fcc67a2.JPG" width=“690” height=“923”
This is a picture of seedless che on osage orange
This is a picture of my control in the experiment which is mulberry grafted on mulberry. This demonstrates grafting conditions and grafting skill in case grafts fail some people would suspect these two factors rather than incompatibility. I made these grafts thirteen days ago.
This is osage orange on mulberry grafts.
I have had no graft failures thus far. The figs grafted on mulberry look like they will fail and that mulberry tree developed leaf spot. Leaf spot is harmless but it’s unsightly. The Figs grafted to this mulberry may or may not be linked to the leaf spot.
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Looks good Clark.
Tony
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Mulberry grafts are very slow to push leaves. If they are showing buds after 4 weeks that is a really good sign. Here is a video on another method we did not use for grafting mulberry in this experiment https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xB14qdWt_-U . Here is an example of the kind of growth rate you can expect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1Ys6LtfCT4
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I used side veneer graft on many of my bench grafts, and snipped back the stock to the graft after a couple weeks. These are now in the ground and pushing buds, fingers crossed!
Last year I did something intersting, lacking rootstock I used a couple root sections and rind grafted them into the bottom of my scions, one per. Morus rubra stock and Collier scions. These have grown and survived the winter.
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Hello,
I am just a beginner, so please forgive me for possible errors and inaccuracies. I am so glad I found this forum and this thread so full of interesting information.
I also hope I am not too much off-topic, but I was planning on doing some experiments in bud grafting figs (Ficus carica, various varieties), che (Cudrania tricuspidata, both self pollinating and male) and mulberries (various Morus alba, rubra as well as macroura) on paper mulberries (Broussonetia papyrifera), since I have tons of them in my backyard and was hoping to make them somehow “productive”. I also have a Osage-orange (Maclura pomifera) from which I could take bridging material if necessary.
I was thinking about trying at the end of the summer, early autumn, but Clark mentioned that moraceae don’t take well because of the lack of sap, so I was wondering if I should try earlier. I was also thinking about trying in various periods if necessary.
Any advice on when would be the best period/periods, the best techniques and which would be the combinations most likely to succeed is welcome.
Thank you
P.s. of course, I will try to post pictures and updates.
Clemens,
What state are you located at? You can try Mulberry right now if you want. If you post pictures that will be great. It’s not to late in my area. The weather has been warm but not extremely hot this year here. If the are very large mulberry trees rind grafts are a good way to go. If the tree is as big around as your wrist or smaller try cleft grafts. If the tree is smaller around in places than your little finger try whip grafts. Good luck with your Mulberry grafts! Here are some videos you can use to begin learning https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jZHsus9qGlA
Dear Clark,
thank you for your reply.
I am actually in Northeast Italy. This year the weather has been a bit odd, with quite a warm winter, then temperatures going up and down, and now it is getting more stable at around 77 degrees fahrenheit.
I am worried it might be a bit to late, not so much for the rootstock, but for the scionwood since various plants have already started fruiting (I guess because of the overall warm temperatures).
Do you think the apical grafting methods you kindly mention could be still be viable?
By the way, thank you for the very nice link.
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