I agree about the sizes less than a gallon, they dry out too fast for me, an even width and height seems to work best for me as well, wider might be a little better for growth but takes more watering. I’ve been messing around with 80% compost 20% biochar, great results for up to 3 gallon containers last year, moved some of them up to 10s with the same mix to see how they do. Those look nice, thanks for the tip.
Biocharred all the dead fig tops today, got maybe half a yard from a pile the size of a minivan! It looks like nice stuff.
The browned leaf tip above the one you are holding can be an indicator for fig bud mites, newest leaf looks like it will drop also, and pale spots look suspicious as well.
I can see that they have more info than they used to have on their website before. I bought mine almost 2 years ago, and no roots have went through. I think that we will get another year out of it, it’s left out at least 6 months a year in full sun long hours of the day in North Carolina. Sun here is very damaging to anything plastic or rubber.
Fertilizer question: In Zone 7 should I stop fertilizing first year figs end of July? Hoping the fertilizer beefs up the roots to better survive winter. Am using fish emulsion 5-1-1. Maybe I need higher phosphate for root growth?
You should stop now. What helps young figs survive winter cold is wood that’s hardened off. That’s very hard to do. They want to keep growing right into fall. That green wood has no chance. Don’t water too much or too late either. Water is just as critical if not more so.
Think about all the pictures you’ve seen of mature trees. They don’t have all that green wood going into fall. They aren’t as vigorous and as a result are more winter hardy.
In MD with normal rain yes even on a tree planted this spring. On an older tree stop watering now. You want it to stop growing no later than August but not drop it’s leaves.
Are your figs in pots? If so how are you overwintering them? How big are the pots?
For mine in pots, mainly 5g SIPs (and I am north of you with a shorter growing season), I fertilize till the end of July and water whenever needed based on dry potting media. Hot dry weather in August and Sept without adequate root moisture would not be ideal for younger figs in small pots. I have the advantage of a storage area that I can keep from getting too cold, however, and even if some of the later growth is a little green at dormancy it does not get damaged. If you have a storage area that freezes, then follow Steve’s advice regarding fertilizer.