Fig Basics

KY,
Have you tried fresh figs? The taste of fresh figs is quite different from dried figs. I know many people who love dried figs but do not like fresh figs. It is an acquired taste, I think. I did not like freh figs bought from stores. They have some “greenish” taste that is a turn off to many people including me.

I like fresh figs when I grow my own Chicago Hardy and let them ripe ( a bit shriveled). It tastes sweet and figgy. Idon’t know how to describe but most people I gave them to like the.

If you are in zone 6 or lower, growing figs in ground unprotected is challenging.
You have to choose cold hardy varieties that can resprount from the base when they died to the ground, They need to be varieties that ripen early enough before it gets cold.

I ddon’t have much success with potted figs. They don’t grow as vigorous as Drew’s. The soil mix, the fertilizer, amount iof water, amount sun and the timing to take those pots out from staorage, etc, are things that I have not mastered.

Figs are easy regarding no spray for insects or diseases. Grow them to fruit in time in a colder zone is not that easy in my opinion.

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I have had fresh figs, but only from a grocery store. I could taste the … promise. There was a good flavor there, but it wasn’t very sweet. I am guessing they were quite underripe.
Is Chicago Hardy one that will resprout and ripen reliably? I’ve seen it for sale locally. I’m not sure I’m up for wrangling a potted plant.

Steve, have you try green wood rooting on figs. I saw a video that the gentleman cut about a foot section it on the top and scraped 1 inch on one side of the bottom end and dipped in power root hormone and potted up in potting mix then cover it with a 1 gallon ziplock bag, place it in the shade. It rooted in about 3 weeks.

Tony

Yes I’ve tried that. I find it more difficult than air layer or dormant cuttings. Not something I plan to use.

I need that one, if you have cuttings in the fall…I don’t need a plant.
Some I added this year are Violet Septor,
Lebanese Black/Purple (a graft that took well)
CdD Roja (another graft)

Medici HR #4.
LSU Red
Galicia Negra
Miralla (MP)
El Molino Unk
Marva Silka
Jurupa
Some others too.

BFF stalled when i put it outside, it was not happy, it is now growing well again. I may air layer that if it grows enough.

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I don’t know about CH inground unprotected. Mine went in ground last year and had winter protection. It came through well and has grown well. I have not spotted any figs. If the plany does not produced any figs soon, I don’t know if the figs would ripen in time.

It had fruit earlier in pot and ripened well for me.

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Try to pinch the tip off at every 5th leaf to stimulate fruit.

Tony

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Have done that, Tony. Maybe, the tree loves the freedom in ground and just is happy growing :disappointed:

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Someone is going to help me with this one.

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I typed this up recently for folks in my area. May as well share.

Container care.
Fig trees can be productive in containers as small as 5 gallons, but will require more frequent watering and fertilizing in small containers.

They do very well in fabric container as well as self watering containers. Shielding plastic containers from the sun will reduce heat stress and watering needs.

Choose a potting mix that drains well, fig trees are not picky about potting soil otherwise, an even mix of small pine bark pieces and compost works very well.

Containers can be buried a few inches deep to allow the roots to grow out into the soil, this reduces watering and fertilizer needs and can increase growth dramatically, dig out and cut the roots outside the container in the fall (block the bottom drain holes to make digging easier).

Fertilize regularly because nutrients leach from containers quickly. High nitrogen fertilizer stimulate growth and potassium and calcium are important for fruit quality. Dry organic fertilizers work well mixed with compost and applied as a top dressing.

A vigorous and happy container tree will require frequent watering during hot and dry weather, reduce watering slightly during fruit ripening to intensify fruit flavor and sweetness.

Move the tree to a sheltered location before the first frost, especially if it grew late into the season. Store in a cool location for winter, ideally one that stays below 55 °F and above 20°F, water sparingly according to container weight. Be alert for mice, which can girdle trees.

It helps to give later ripening varieties a head start by bringing them outside to come out of dormancy a little bit early in April, but they need to be be shuffled back in if there is a chance of frost.

Growing fig trees in the ground
Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sun in summer and drains well. A spot that is sheltered near a wall is ideal to reduce winter damage.

The best time to plant a fig tree is spring and early summer, although containerized plants can be planted at any time.

Fig trees do not normally require fertilizing in local soils, which are usually silty loam. Add compost and organic mulch to improve poor soils. Apply garden lime and compost to acidic soils (below ph 6).

Fig trees can be planted deeper to protect the crown from cold, it will also encourage the tree to grow more like a bush.

Water regularly after planting to help the tree become established, use enough water to wet the root ball and surrounding soil. 2-3 times a week (more often when it is hot and dry) for about 2 months. After that the tree should not need to be watered, but would benefit during long droughts.

Protect young trees to give them the best chance during winter. One easy and effective method is to bend flexible growths to the ground and then cover with mulch, soil or other material. To make it easier, the tree can be planted at an angle. When trunks become thicker the bending should be done in stages to give the wood time to relax.

Uncover protected trees sometime in April, light frosts will not hurt them very much but a hard freeze after they have begun growing can do damage.

Prune after growth begins, make thinning cuts to allow light to penetrate the canopy and aide fruit ripening by completely removing inward facing branches, pull any excess suckers during the summer to avoid congestion.

Vigorous growth makes fig trees more vulnerable to cold damage, so avoid excess water, fertilizer and strong “heading cuts” or chops when pruning.

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KYWeaver - try the links to the 2 fig forums listed above. There are hundreds of different posts on methods of growing figs in the ground or in containers for those of us in colder climates, where the fig plants can freeze. Once they are established in the ground, many types will grow back from the roots even if you do not cover them, but with a little effort in covering them you can protect the plant and get a bigger harvest sooner the next year.

When I started growing figs 4 years ago, I was convinced that growing in containers was the way to go. Now I believe that I will do best using both methods - containers and in ground. The containers allow me to do the fig shuffle early in April which allows an earlier start, since we get frosts until 2nd or 3rd week of May here sometimes. I get my earliest figs from my containers. But the inground trees give a bigger harvest, which is appreciated. That, and I was running out of room to store my SIPs in my cold cellar for the winter :smiley:

If you are really interested in learning from the experience of others do some research on those forums. Ask specific questions here or there, plenty of folks will be willing to help. And the Chicago Hardy you have seen in some stores is a great fig choice in many climates, especially colder areas

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Great info! Thanks.

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I will check those fora out. I think I could manage winter cover, but I know the fig shuffle would result in frozen figs. Heck, I forgot the laundry on the line last night!
In the meantime, I’ll think about where to put one IF I got it. I have a south facing white wall. I’m guessing that would help with ripening. Would it be a boon or detriment to winter survival?

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Not entirely true there are two different kinds of wood boring beetles that can easily kill a fig tree if the grower is not careful, there is one common throughout much of the USA, one common throughout the Mediterranean. I have had fig trees attacked two times by them, and a pomegranate attacked by them once. I managed to save them, yet at the least the crops get reduced by them especially if they are edible caprifigs, or if the trunk dies and the tree grows back from the roots. That is why all winter damage needs to be removed before the pests arrive because when a fig tree is highly stressed these beetles can tell and they attack the trees.

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With exception to maybe facing that pest I just posted about in this thread the only other major problem you may have considering your hardiness zone is getting fig trees that are not cold hardy enough. Some fig trees resist cold better than others and some fig trees grow back faster when damaged, and stay away from edible caprifigs, the chances in your climate of having figs on old wood are very low and edible caprifigs only have 1 crop and it’s on old wood when there is late frosts the crop could be destroyed. Me I do not mind not having any crops some years on some of my fig trees, even if you have a crop on old wood it would not be much of a crop.

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Most of my figs are on third leaf and potted. They are very healthy and have grown well but have not bared any fruit. I give them a little 10-10-10 in the spring and fox farm fish based fert mid summer. I even pinch them back several time but still no fruit on the container plants.

My in-ground fig did produce a lot of nice figs but died back this past winter. Which sucks because the figs were great and I got a nice crop. It has since started growing back from the roots but will likely be too late to make a crop.

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If you are talking about Bush Doctor® Wholly Mackerel® that would prevent fruit forming and ripening if applied around fig formation and ripening times. High nitrogen is not good then and it’s very low on what helps the fruit grow. [quote=“speedster1, post:36, topic:11565, full:true”]
Most of my figs are on third leaf and potted. They are very healthy and have grown well but have not bared any fruit. I give them a little 10-10-10 in the spring and fox farm fish based fert mid summer. I even pinch them back several time but still no fruit on the container plants.

My in-ground fig did produce a lot of nice figs but died back this past winter. Which sucks because the figs were great and I got a nice crop. It has since started growing back from the roots but will likely be too late to make a crop.
[/quote]

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No its Big Bloom. 0-0.5-0.7. Its mostly just micronutrients and bat guano.

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