I would bag them or put them in something to control humidity as well.
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I have them in a tray with a plastic dome over it . I have them propped up so the bottom is getting the heat from below.
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I noticed in the video the several treatments they were given to control fungus. Do you suppose they should be dipped in a mild bleach occasionally or if signs of mold show?
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I would just do that once unless they need more. Always Dip my scions received to make sure I’m not picking up anything new.
What dilution do you use?
10% bleach
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I believe I tried this too early into dormancy. None of the cuttings even tried to open a bud. I am trying a fresh batch. I have the base of the wild cutting dipped in cinnamon, wrapped in damp paper towel and covered plastic, then grafted to concord. Then the whole thing under a plastic dome with some bottom heat.
I have an update on my grapevines. I took them out of the dome today. I dug up a small area in an old stump with real light dirt to stick them in. One had started to leaf out above the graft.
They all showed some calluse on the rootstock. This one looked nice.<img src="/uploads/default/original/2X/7/761ffd144213f72f5ac22edb28a5517697a34ac7.jpeg" width=“690” height=“690”
I really liked this one.
And here they are stuck 8 inches deep in my fancy planter.
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They look perfect. Great job! I can’t wait to see follow up pictures. You may wind up with a lot of grapes!
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It has been an interesting experiment, I really hope at least one or two make it.
I am by no means an expert and fairly new to this forum and the world of fruit production as well as grafting. But my interest in grafting on cold hardy rootstock has led me into the realm of grapes.
In my research I came across the following publication, it is certainly a way of grafting grapes that I never ran across before and I have no idea if it would work. I just thought I would share it with experts who would have better insight into the possibilities of this grafting procedure. I have included only the part on grape grafting procedures.
NDSU Plant Propagation
The principal advantages to be gained by this method are:
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The facility by which new and rare kinds may be increased, by grafting them on strong stocks of healthy varieties, when they will often grow from ten to twenty feet the first season, producing an abundance of wood to propagate. -
The short time in which fruit can be obtained from new and untried varieties, as their grafts will generally bear the next season. -
In every vineyard there are, in these days of many varieties, vines that have proved inferior. Yet, by grafting into them some superior variety, they may be made very valuable.
The vine, however, does not unite as readily as pear and apple would when grafted. To ensure success, grape vines must be grafted under ground, which makes the operation a difficult and disagreeable one. It will therefore hardly become a general practice; but, for the purposes above named, is of sufficient importance, to make it desirable that every vineyardist should be able to perform it. Generally the best time to successfully graft in the Midwest is in about the middle of March, in the following manner: Dig away the ground around the vine you wish to graft, until you come to a smooth place to insert your scion; then cut off the vine with a sharp knife, and insert one or two scions, as in common cleft-grafting, taking care to cut the wedge on the scion very thin, with shoulders on both sides, cutting your scion with two eyes to better insure success.
Great care must be taken to insert the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of the vine is very thin, and the success of the operation depends upon a perfect junction of the stock and scion. If the vine is strong enough to hold the scion firmly, no further bandage is necessary; if not, it should be wound firmly and evenly with bass bark. Then press the soil firmly on the cut, and fill up the hole with well-pulverized earth, to the top of the scion. Examine the stock from time to time, and remove all wild shoots and suckers, which it may throw up, as they will rob the graft of nourishment and enfeeble it.
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My neighbor had a fence with some old Concord grapes which the didn’t like to eat and they were going to remove them. I suggested we graft onto them so I cleft grafted beauty seedless grapes.
Last summer in their first season thanks to mature rootstock the new vines grew 25-35 feet. This spring they fruited and I counted more than 100 grape clusters. It’s going to be a grape fall harvest.
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