I think fruitnut is more of a straight shooter.I admire and like that about him and also yourself Alan. Brady
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Yeah, I’m a FN fan also, but also, as an e-friend, I reserve the right to kid. Thanks, BTW.
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Daily highs here continue to be at or above 80F. Tomorrow is definitely a watering day.
Nice…I’ll get there at some point. April maybe…or May…or June.
Currently 92F in Death Valley
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/getobext.php?wfo=vef&sid=DEVC1&num=72&raw=0
They’ve been 95F the last few days…should be 100F or about there by Saturday.
Yes. That is why the “valley to peak” hike starts around 10pm in Death Valley and overnights in Lone Pine the next morning.
In ground?
Me?
Then yes, citrus, and banana’s in ground.
My ground is still plenty moist from this winter’s rain. I don’t water till June!
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Yeah, my yard gets direct sun most the day, so a few days in the 80’s and it’s pretty dry.
If you’re mulching well, the soil underneath will stay moist for months after deep, soaking rains. My trees get full sun for 10+ hours too!
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Watering this early in the yr in CA after good winter rains is likely a waste. Sure the top couple of inches dry out fast in sunny weather. But until there is a good canopy the deeper soil remains moist.
In my greenhouse if the soil starts out wet in winter I don’t need to start watering until at least mid April. That’s with zero rain. Tasty Rich aprium harvest begins about that time.
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I planted some tomatoes a few days ago. And even 8-10" down my soil was dry.
Are you keeping the soil bare? All of my trees are mulched 4-6 inches deep. The mulch is moist just an inch underneath. In fact, so moist it’s breaking down too soon!
Yes.
In my location, perhaps two weeks this time of year. We’ll see what happens when I install it next month.
A fallacy in my location.
Based on what actual evidence? I ask that question with full respect, but established trees are adaptable with root systems evolved to function at various levels of the soil profile without any serious consequence if a part of the profile dries out- fine feeder roots are dying and forming constantly. Orchardists in the east have grown fruit trees without irrigation for centuries, although short droughts are common. In our forests, the rich highly organic top layer dries out every summer in normal years and from spring on, major fine root growth starts on top and works downward as the season progresses.
How are you monitoring your trees’ needs for water? Perhaps your specific soil doesn’t allow the roots to go very deep and isn’t proper orchard soil.
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Maybe both Richard and Cairon have some hard pan layer? In which case, depending on the hardness, a winter planting of tillage radish, besides the mulch, could provide the needed holes for the tree roots?
Once you start mulching deeply, there’ll be no need for such frequent watering. Last year, I watered my trees just twice a month June to October!
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