I’m sorry to hear of your problems. I hope you can get a hold of it and your trees make a good comeback.
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Thank you John.
It will get better on sunny days besides than that my garden looks beautiful with the first Iris of the season.
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That’s a great looking Iris Vincent! Mine don’t get that big.
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@Vincent_8B I just opened this thread to contribute about bush cherries problem in Europe and noticed your pictures.
We had wet spring and many people who got them are reporting the same problem as you. It seems like prairie cherries are very sensitive to monilia laxa. It’s ironical cause I just bought three of them because I thought they might be more resistant than traditional tart cherries. In many parts of Europe it’s virtually impossible to grow apricots and tart cherries without any chemical treatment due to this disease. Lately monilia is also affecting cherries, plums and peaches although on lesser scale than apricots and tart cherries. The only protection is applying fungicide at blossom stage…we have fungicides designed to combat moniliosa, I am not sure what is the situation in US since it’s not that common there.
I see that this disease also made it to parts of US. Just google “European brown rot” to see what you are dealing with.
You will have to remove the wilted parts or the disease will spread to the rest of the tree and eventually kill it (young trees are especially at risk).
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Vincent,
U of California recommends both myclobutanil (brand like Immunox multi fungicide) and chlorothalonil ( a common brand is Daconil).
You should read up articles on this brown rot blossom blight. They may show up again when fruit mature. Timing of spraying is important. Your wet weather does not help the situation.
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In the above link from 2015 MSU recommends Indar (fenbuconazole) or Vanguard (Cyprodinil) for BR. But I’m thinking they may be available only to commercial growers? I’m not sure about that though, maybe it was an overall price thing that’s been the hold-up with my never obtaining any…
But it’s been my understanding for awhile now, that while Immunox (Myclobutanil) shows BR as one of the things it combats, that it’s actually not all that effective against it.
Not knocking Immunox BTW, I use it all the time on my Apples - it’s just that it’s been my understanding that it’s less effective on BR in stone fruits than maybe some other products.
I recall back on GW when I was struggling with BR on my ER in like 2010, I was steered toward Montrey Fungi Fighter by Alan, and when I could not get it quickly enough, I was able to find the same active ingredient (Propiconazole) in Bonide Infuse. And the bottle I’m now using is from FertiLome, and I think Hi-Yield makes something too.
But the advice I got back then was priceless, and I was able to rescue my trees crop that year. Since then, I have tried to stay diligent about spraying against BR every year. But…, I still have BR crop up a little bit from time to time. I don’t know if it’s a lack of total coverage due to the tree being so large, or if it’s timing. But I know that when and if I see a couple green cherries turning brown (even after spraying earlier) that I can hit it again and and it’ll stop it. The label indicates four applications maximum though.
So I’ve been making my initial spray at blossom, but according to the MSU link they recommend at popcorn and one week later.
I plan on doing that next year just to see if that’s the ticket.
I will say that my ER seems to be more prone to BR than my CJ’s have been.
Good luck Vincent, hope you get a handle on this.
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I’m getting rot on my Lapins right now… they can’t handle all this constant rain…i’ll just thin out all the bad ones as i go. I really hope it turns drier.
I tried to ignore brown rot on my cherries and peaches for 3 years. It has been progressive worse. I did not have blossom blight, just brown rot on fruit.
Finally, I sprayed with Indar last year. It was so effective on cherries. I had no peaches to spray last year.
My mentioning of myclobutanil and chlorothalonil is based on what IPM of U of CA states. Not my experience.
I use myclobutanil for CAR and cherry leave spot, two soray at petal fall and 14 days later. I will add one more spray before blooms next year. Will use Indar for fruit rot again.
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Thank you Mamuang I will read and pay more attention for next winter coming.
Thank you so much Paul. Hopefully I don’t have to pray much for every single year.
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Thank you so much Jerry. It’s really helpful article.
The only fruit remaining is this one. The other (very few) fruits never grew and got brown and fell off. Seemed odd that this one is so tiny but yet redden-ing/ed.
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Sorry to break the news, but that fruit will soon fall too. It is much too small to be turning ripe, it didn’t get pollinated or something and will soon drop. Here’s what they should look like when they start to turn from green to red:
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Thanks, Don! I didn’t figure I’d get fruit with just having planted it in March but it was still cool to watch them progress. Yours look gorgeous!! Is that a Romeo?
That is what all my romeos looked like this year. They all have fallen off. This is the 3rd year in the ground so I am guessing the fruit drop was due to being too young. My CJ has a handful this year for the first time. It has been in the ground 4 years.
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I had big hopes for my three Romeo cherries on their third leaf. They were huge bushes when I got them, and they were solid blossoms this spring, but there are only two or three cherries there. I hope they materialize so I can at least get to see what they taste like.
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That’s a Carmine Jewel from last summer. Mine have just finished flowering this year, so too soon to tell what kind of crop it will be.
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Some of my bushes are growing well- 3/6, I’d say. One is struggling to leaf out well enough (a CP) and one looks like this- it’s a Juliet. I have another Juliet about 12-14’ away which looks great so it’s odd. Will post pics of both.
Two of the above shots are of the sick Juliet and one is obviously appearing healthy. I also have something going on with my Romeo. Will upload that pic here:
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Looks like cherry leaf spot. You’ll want to pick up as many of the leaves as you can and not let them lay around on the ground. Then make sure you’re spraying your fungicide spays diligently.
Here’s a link to read: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/cherry_leaf_spot_get_an_early_start_on_protection_before_the_fungus_gets_st
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I’m so thankful for this group! Thank you!!! I looked it up and it sure does look similar. Considering our crazy wet spring, it makes sense, too. I’ve never used a fungicide and would rather not but I guess there’s potential for it to get worse. What might happen if I didn’t spray but just removed the yellow leaves?
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