Yes, it will be better than being bare root, I would move them if I thought it’s a problem area. They can get root rot in wet areas. Yes move them.
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PAF are the toughest bramble I’ve ever planted. was told they were cold tolerant to z4. well they weren’t and froze to the snowline. i pruned every shoot that came up from the roots all spring and summer to hopefully kill them off and save me the labor of digging up all the roots. i was then told that cane fruit sometimes can adapt and produce in a colder region so the next spring when the shoots came up again i let them grow and covered them with straw and burlap under the snow for the winter. point meaning if you had PAF canes last year, you WILL have more new canes this spring. its a tough plant! mine don’t send shoots up till’ early june up here z3b.
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Well im not 100% certain my PAF roots are dead. The floricanes are definately dead. They are split and fail the scratch test. If they come back up from the roots i will trim the primocanes at the end of the season and mulch it heavily to insulate it. I hope its not dead because thw berries were dynomite.
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ah, so this is how raspberry floricanes work.
the ratty canes which i thought were dead during the winter are now exhibiting green growth and will presumably fruit this summer. glad I didn’t prune them a few months back.
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thats what i love about cane fruit. you can trample them, mow them , forget to weed them and they will come back and still fruit! wish our trees were so tenacious! the most vigorous, best fruiting, variety I’ve grown so far is heritage. they’re right up there w/ PAF for vigor. shoots and berries like crazy , strong canes. only reason i got rid of them is they fruit to late for me to harvest even half of the berries. they taste awesome too.
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indeed, the raspberry is a wondrous weed.
my other, more recently planted cascade gold has totally overstepped its container in the space of a couple months, and I can’t imagine it’s finished growing for the year. when is a good time to prune the cane tips and number of canes?
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i have only ever bearers so i don’t tip. i prune out the canes when they get about 12in. tall. i cut them all to the ground in early spring for just a primocane crop. thinking of getting some summer bearers to get some berries earlier.
i believe cascade gold is a sport of heritage as is anne.
Well, out of the 10 rasps I planted 17 days ago, 3 of them have sprouted- Joan J, Fall Gold and Double Gold. There are a couple others that look like they’re trying to sprout off the cane that was pruned down to the ground.
Funny thing about the Fall Gold plant, while all the others have sprouted near the pruned cane, the FG had about an inch tall sprout about 6" away, and a much smaller one closer by. I only had found the sprouts after I pulled the straw mulch away from the cane. I checked the others this way and didn’t see this.
Of the 4 blackberries that were planted last weekend, I’m pretty sure the Ouachita has a sprout, and the PA Traveler looks like it has a tiny sproutlet. The upcoming warm weather (highs in the high 70s - low 80s) ought to coax out more of them.
The growing guide has said it should take 4 to 6 weeks for them to sprout, so we still have a ways to go. I’m just a bit impatient, I guess.
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I think you’ll find the Fall Gold to be a VERY prolific spreader. Out of my 8 cultivars it’s #1 in that department. The other ones will put up their share soon as well.
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I hope so, got to give them time. It’s been quite cool, cloudy and pretty wet here since I planted them, so I’m betting on the warm weather coming up to help wake them up.
All of my gold rasps are up, FG and Double Gold, and the Anne I planted last year. So, we might get lucky and have a few to sample later in the year.
I planted 5 of these same varieties last year and only one came up, so I’m being cautiously optimistic this year. Difference being this year is I got them in the ground in early April as opposed to early June last season.
The weather’s been so cold and damp so far this year, everything is taking its sweet time coming out of dormancy. I planted three pluots on 19 March, and they’re just now really showing any substantial sprouting. I have a Nelson blueberry that I had feared had croaked this winter, when I’ve just noticed this weekend that its now showing teeny little green leaves.
I imagine most things in your neck of the woods are still in a cool slumber? Curious, what’s your other vigorous spreaders?
I’d say Heritage, Prelude and Red Latham sucker a lot and Anne and Purple Royalty sucker the least. Yeah, everything here is sound asleep. My Honeyberries will be the first to bloom, they will open sometime this week, April 10th last year. I will not be worried about late frosts catching things this year everything is so far behind.
That’s huge getting your raspberries in the ground 2 months earlier this year. All the magic is in the roots, you will get many more new canes popping up this year.
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For me Anne is the best grower. While all my rasps florocanes are growing well Anne is the only one that has started pushing fruit buds.
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From what I read it was developed in the Pacific Northwest using Malling Delight. It was in trials 20 years before released. And I heard Kiwi Gold was from heritage, a sport that appeared in Australia. Kiwi Gold develops a red tinge when ripe unlike Anne, so they are not the same. It’s really good too!
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i stand corrected! got cascade gold / kiwi gold mixed up. you think cascade gold would make it up here? heard its z4 hardy but its florocane fruiting correct? for florocanes to make it thru the winter, they usually have to be z3 hardy. all my primocanes that wintered over where broke/crushed on my other varieties but i cut to ground in early spring anyway for a primocane crop. would have to tie florocanes up to keep them from bieng ruined.
my honeryberries haven’t budded yet but my consort black currants are starting. they are always the first to leaf out here. starting to see new primocanes poking out on my autumn britten, polka, jaclyn raspberries. my ohio treasure black raspberries are also budding. we literally lost 3ft of snow in 8 days! my macdonald rhubarb once again pushing stalks thru 6in. of snow! a tough plant!
Thanks. Well, from I’ve read on here the reds are more likely to sucker than the other color rasps. I also planted Royalty and Prelude, but haven’t seen any sprouts yet.
The blooming has picked up here. Our big old Milam apple tree by the barn is awash in blooms now. Our peaches bloomed about 2-3 weeks ago, and I doubt any of them got pollinated, or even made it through the freezes we had. Our newer apples haven’t bloomed, they’ve barely got any leaves on them. I was surprised to see that a couple of our second year gooseberries have fruit buds on them.
Sounds like y’all are have a “normal” transition to spring, so you ought to have a good fruit harvest this year.
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Same here, not sure what cultivar my black currants are, but they are the first to start pushing leaves here as well even though they are in a shadier part of the garden where the snow melts last. My honey berries are the first thing to flower. They’re in a really sunny location along retaining walls so they warm up and wake up fast.
It seemed to struggle here. I don’t know what the issue was? It’s 5th leaf now, so overcame the problem. I would avoid it. One that would for sure is Honey Queen. it seems too warm here for it to do well. It also is summer bearing. probably impossible to find. If I can figure out which canes are Honey Queen, I can maybe find a sucker of it. It’s next to Kiwi Gold, and they intermingled after 5 years. plus they say to avoid taking plants from older gardens due to viral infections, and mine is getting too old to trade brambles.
I recently added arctic ground raspberries. they seem to flower like mad. You need two of 4 cultivars developed. I have two of them. Not very productive but thimbleberries, is another option.
I bought both and planted some in a sunny environment, and some in a shady environment. Oh also two kinds of thimbleberries. A white and a pink flowered variety. I heard these are fussy plants, all mentioned. Work in some places and not others. So finding the right strain for your area may be the key. The pink thimbleberries originate from seed originally collected in high elevations of the Sierra Nevadas in California. The white from the Keweenaw Peninsula in Northern Michigan. I heard these whites sometimes don’t fruit in warmer zones but the pinks do. We will see? I have both in shade and sun areas so can see where they perform best too.
Here are the ground cover raspberries, very small plants right now. Supposed to grow to foot wide clumps.
. The shady location at my cottage is open ground. With currants, elderberries, and honeyberries. I have the ground raspberries planted as ground cover around a blueberry here in the city
My Russian honeyberries are flowering now, the Japanese have a week or two yet to go.
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i have 5 thimbleberries and 4 arctic raspberries i planted last spring from hartmanns. the artics struggled. think i amended too much for thier liking. i don’t know if they survived yet. thimbles put out 15in. of new growth. both are in the same bed. was thinking of getting a few thimbles from Oikios but found out they both carry the same strain of them. you’re about 3 weeks ahead of me.