I just can’t let any discussion of Raspberry varieties go by without putting in a plug for Josephine. We all know that I’m one of the least experienced growers on this site. But my taste buds and eyes work well, so when I’ve planted and tasted 6 varieties of Raspberries and one of them is 10 times better tasting and twice the size of all the others, I’m as qualified as many others to say it is an incredibly good berry that deserves a chance to prove itself. Josephine: Its what’s for dessert!
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Is there a decent place to buy it where I don’t have to buy 5 plants and pay outrageous shipping?
Ive always heard that you can not put blackberries near raspberries due to some virus that is neutral in the one but deadly to the other. Is this incorrect?
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Indiana Berry allows you to order single plants, and their shipping isn’t too bad. I ordered 4 blueberry and 2 gooseberry plants from them and shipping was about $14. All the plants were $8 apiece.
I’m expecting them at the end of the month. They have a good variety of rasps.
Huh? I didn’t read that. That would suck as I just bought the raspberries. Maybe someone else can clarify
That is where I bought them. But they don’t sell Josephine.
I have absolutely read that before and (I think) heard people on here say it. But I’ve also read scores of people- ones I implicitly trust- say they have had their blacks and raspberries together for many years with no problems. So have I, and so has my neighbor. So I think there is a whole world of evidence to show that shows the two can live happily together.
Sorry! Guess I should’ve read the whole thread before jumping in. When are they supposed to be shipping them to you? I think mine are due the last week of March.
Raspberries aren’t very vigorous for me in 9b. However my best performer by far is Heritage and we have hot dry summers. Heritage flavor is just okay however if your Mom is used to store berries she will be very happy with them, it will be far superior to the store. Raspberries easily can get root rot so well draining soil and/or raised bed would help you.
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It didn’t say.
Heritage is a steady performer, an old cultivar that refuses to go away. Not a heavy producer, taste ranges from good to excellent, depending on location. Often Caroline is suggested instead because it can out produce Heritage. But Heritage can grow anywhere CA to Alaska. A good choice.
What’s really hard to find is the sport of Heritage Kiwi Gold, I have one, it used to be around a lot, now it’s very hard or impossible to find. It’s excellent berries are very firm, a very nice plant, I don’t get why it disappeared?
I like to fertilize in the spring. I prefer organic like Holly-Tone, raspberries like a slightly acidic environment, but will grow in basic soils too. Holly-Tone adds a touch of sulfur to keep pH from rising. Acid lovers food. I use it for my blueberries too. I like it as you can buy 20 pound bags for about 20 bucks. They should be mulched , and compost is great in the spring too! So add fertilizer, compost, and mulch in the spring. And I fertilize again August 1st. They like a light dusting of fertilizer, go easy on it, too much seems to hurt them. That’s it! It may need some shade in hotter areas, but should be good there. It will grow in San Diego, so it should grow there!
No way, you have enough now! Well you can relay your experience so far. We are all still learning even Alan! 
I’m new to Josephine, i just added it. I got about 10 berries, that was enough, You’re right this is a winner! I can’t wait to try more this year. I have plans to use it in my crosses. I think though, it is a good one for your area, you are too warm for some, they grow and taste better in colder climates. I know you’re not that warm, but many raspberries are native to zones 4-5, even 6a so I think this explains it. To me Caroline and Polka taste better.But not by much. The size is what is impressive. I know other big ones are around, but to me the taste is so so, Josephine is excellent.
Not sure? It is red raspberries and black raspberries. Blacks are highly susceptible to virus infection, and reds can be completely asymptomatic (show no symptoms of infection). So it is possible your reds are infected and they will hurt the blacks. I ignore that advice completely. The blacks tell me I have a problem, so are very useful to have with reds. These viruses will also infect blackberries, so you may be right too.[quote=“SanJoseFool, post:28, topic:9755”]
Raspberries aren’t very vigorous for me in 9b. However my best performer by far is Heritage
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Yes, and taste is just OK, it actually tastes better grown here. I suggest you try Baba berry Bay Laurel used to sell it. It is THE best for warm zones. Only hardy to 0 F, so if you go below zero, never mind!
I never bought from them, but wow dirt cheap!
https://www.penseberryfarm.com/JOSEPHINE-RED-RASPBERRY-p/ras10.htm
If you really want to dish out the bucks
https://www.berriesunlimited.com/6-plant-special-josephine-red-primocane-late-season-tissue-cultured-plugs.html
Expense is because it is tissue cultured, hence certified virus free, you pay for that!
And you get a micro plant too! Oh well. Buy three from penseberry and if one takes, you still made out!
I bought a Kiwi Gold from a cheap nursery (the only place I have ever seen it) and it was dry as dry can be with dead white growth to boot! No way is thing going to survive, well it’s 4 years later and it’s still here. They can take extreme abuse, look completely dead, and still come back.
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I think this is right. Not that I’ve listened to that advice- my yard isn’t big enough and there are wild berries around. It may explain why Jewel didn’t do well for me- I pulled them out years ago.
But, I could have also had them in a bad spot (too wet)- just last weekend, my brother told me that they’ve done very well for him on a hillside (very well drained). I think he got the starts from me, so that would mean they would carry the same virus (if any).
Here is a pic of a November Anne harvest, along with a few goji and a Hardy Chicago.
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As much as I deeply appreciate the vote of confidence, I most definitely feel like I’m on the very low end of the experience scale here on this site. What is funny, and maybe a bit scary, is in my little town I’m the Fruit Guru! haha. People see all my trees and hear me talking about them all the time, and occasionally someone in city hall paying a utility bill will poke their head in my door and say “hey, I heard you know a lot about fruit. I have this old apple tree…bla bla.” I ALWAYS start by saying I’m no expert and have no formal training, but from what little I know I think you should…bla bla." I think it’s like the old saying “In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is King”. haha. If they don’t know anyone else here with ANY knowledge whatsoever, so my little bit seems very good. But here on a site filled with REAL experts, I’m reminded every single day of how little I know. Just yesterday I was reading an old thread with a discussion between @Olpea and @Alan about peach trees and copper and so on. It was enjoyable to see such expertise on ANY subject, but when its one I love its even better. Reading their exchange made me feel like I was out in a 1000 acre commercial peach orchard listening to two orchard owners (who in my scenario also have a ph.D in Prunus persica) having a chat about the topic. The great thing is here on GF we get that experience every day. (Have I said “Thank-you, @scottfsmith” lately)?
Drew, I didn’t know you got to taste Josephine last year and am very glad you did. As someone who grows a lot of berries, its good to get your vote for my favorite.
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You should also be aware that Tripple Crown has a much taller growth habit than Prime Ark Freedoms
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What type of problems do you expect this to cause?
I bought some Espoma acidifier (blue on white bag) for Mom’s hydrangeas, would that be too potent for the raspberry? It doesn’t have any other nutrients in it besides the sulphur. Maybe a little 10-10-10, plus a little sulphur, when the plant starts sprouting?
I just planted it yesterday, and it had a little green sprout before it went into the ground, but that shriveled up a bit today.
Yes, you can use it, and the fertilizer, but wait till it is established, or on it’s way to being there…Just work the Espoma in a bit. It is really not needed, but In my opinion it will help.
Watch the plant. You can use anything. Less is more with raspberries. They are efficient at pulling nutrients out of the soil, so be conservative on doses, and watch the plant, make adjustments if needed. Start with 1/2 dose of both products. Increase as/if needed.
Thanks, I’ll pass this info on to my mom and sis, I’m headed back home soon. Do they need frequent watering? It has been very dry, warm and windy here, even tho next week it’s supposed to cool off a bit with some rain.
No nothing more than normal. They are drought tolerant once established.
It’s hard to mess up raspberries, all should be fine. I tend to fine tune to death. Every year you learn a little more. I have only lost one cultivar which was not hardy enough for here.
A very forgiving plant. Even if stressed to the max, you may not get berries, but you won’t kill them either. The next year is another year to try again.
I didn’t think raspberries needed acidic soil. Why use that formulation of Epsoma. That is the same one I use on blueberries. I’ve read on numerous sites that you shouldn’t fertilize raspberries the first year. Wait until year 2.
They don’t need it, just prefer slightly acidic soil, which i would define as between 5.5 to 6.5. A range which is not acidic enough for blueberries. 5.5 being an acceptable but high pH for blueberries. 4.5 to 5.0 is better.
North Carolina State University Extension. says the best range is 5.8 to 6.5
Some consider 6.5 not acidic, I do, anything under 7.0. I prefer black and white terms, it’s either basic or acidic. Slightly acidic slightly basic is parsing words as far as I’m concerned. Although I’m not sure parsing is the best word? A distinction without a difference. Slightly acidic is still acidic.
The Farmer’s Almanac says 5.5 to 7.0.
The University of Maine suggests 5.6 to 6.2. So depending on what reference you’re reading opinions vary, but all agree, slightly acidic soil is ideal.
I would agree before adding sulfur, one should know what the pH is? If you use tap water you’re using a basic solution, so adding sulfur even to soil that is in range will help keep it there. Continued use of tap water will make the soil basic.
The only plant I heard not to fertilize the first year are trees. As far as I know you should fertilize everything else. Might be exceptions like say Rhubarb or something like that but in general you fertilize, raspberries are heavy feeders. But I prefer to be safe on this point, as my experience says they can get too much. I have never read anywhere not to fertilize the first year. That would be difficult as I have added new plants to established beds the last 3 years, and needed to fertilize established plants on either side of new plantings. Near impossible for me not to fertilize them.
Ammonium sulfate can be used on raspberries, to give you an idea of what heavy feeders they can be. I think it’s overkill myself, but is a recommended product. You can’t kill no matter what you do. Not fertilizing them the first year, if one feels this is the best approach will not hurt them. Use your best judgement. I use organic, I feed the soil, if the plant wants food it’s in the soil, it can decide when/if it needs it. Soluble is like adding crack cocaine, The plant is swamped with nutrients all at once. Organic release very slowly over time. In my experience almost all plants do better, have consistent performance and are generally healthier using organics. I used to think this was BS, but my experience does also show much better performance using organics. A very noticeable difference. As one has no idea when the plant needs food so using soluble you’re guessing. With organic, the plant decides when to eat. You’re feeding the soil not the plant. I’m sold on it now.
Almost all university guides suggest the compost I mention too,
My suggestions are from experience, what I found works for me, your mileage may vary. I looked at University guides to see if they suggested what I have observed, and the guides look like I wrote them, so yes, they do concur with my observations.
a good gardener can use any fertilizer and get excellent results. I have observed some situations where soluble is a better choice. If you have a nutrient deficiency, if plants needs immediate food, soluble is the way to go in those situations. Also with new seedlings you could use seaweed, but that is almost like using soluble. Flowering plants have evolved for about 200 million years now, and most of the time, all they had was organics, They have evolved around organic feedings. Why I think it works better.
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