I have not seen any damage but the fruit are still very small. I will start spraying next Mon after the rain this weekend. Not sure two sprays will work for me. OFM has up to 5 generations. I see peach shoot flagging until Sept!!!
I didn’t open them up for tunneling, but I thought that the crescent marks were egg laying and the circular ones were feeding. I’ve got crescent ones and maybe a few circular ones as well, though nowhere near as many. It’s possible that they came a week or more ago when we had warmer nights.
I didn’t really need to see your results personally to believe (though I enjoyed it and it was much appreciated- thank you!). I knew that it works, or you wouldn’t be able to use it for a business.
What finally tipped me into using it was that I decided I really wanted to get fruit this year. I’ve had too many years where something (frosts, animals, bugs, and sometimes all 3) kept me from getting much harvest. We’re close to past the frost (hopefully) and I’m keeping up with the traps this time, Though I’m not getting as much now, as I was last summer- maybe I’ve cleared out a majority. So that leaves the bugs. I decided to go with a known strategy, rather than attempting to find a less toxic (surround, Spinosad, etc) approach. Let’s see what success looks like, then I can go back to experimenting, at least with part of the yard.
I had that same question 5+ years ago when “Harvestman” put forth the Spray guide on Gardenweb. My guess is that the later generations don’t happen if you kill the parents with Triazicide. Then, you only have to deal with the occasional wanderer. Maybe they mostly wander near the beginning of the season, looking for new homes? Or maybe those migrant OFM/PC/AM just do a low enough level of damage to ignore.
I think I will follow Alan’s two spray schedule and add some bagging to prevent late bug attacks.
You are so good at providing links. Thank you both you and @alan.
Plenty of people get fruit organically in our region, although on wet years stonefruit can be nearly impossible- especially if you want a wide range of varieties throughout the season. The reason I have not adopted that approach is that it is so much more work that, for me, isn’t justified by the payoff.
I went to Lowe’s to check on Triazicide insecticide. Triazicde Once and Done. I also saw the Triazicide Lawn Insect Killer product. Both have the same ingredients and labels.
There were only two bottles of Once and Done left on the shelf. Several more bottles of Lawn Insect Killer.
Possible, the Once and Done was the leftover batch from last year. Lawn Insect Killer product is probably more popular among home owners. Thus, the product is likely comes off the shelf faster. I think I should buy the Lawn Insect Killer product as I may have a better chance of getting a fresher product.
What do you think? I will buy it Mon and spray after the rain
Scott-
My Moniqui dropped the 5 fruit it had…ugh…second year in a row. I ended up cutting about 1/2 the tree off (it was tall and lanky) so now its nice and short and sending up a bunch of new shoots. I might end up removing it all together. Not any luck with white fleshed cots…my Starks twocot died.
If they have the same ingredients AND the same labels they are the same products with different packaging. You are smart to reach for the fresher product. You aren’t spraying with the packaging.
I read the ingredients and the labels. They are the same. Both are for fruit and veggies and have the same measurements and cautions.
It “bugs” me that they don’t print the bottling date on the bottle. I just went for a new bottle the other day and it was a couple dollars cheaper than previous years. This immediately raised my suspicions, but then I noticed a new bottle type in the back (with red measuring cap). Maybe they are just clearing out the old bottle design?
The white cots all take a long time to start fruiting well, some taking longer than others. I still don’t have a 100% reliable one, Moniqui is probably the best though. I didn’t get to see how much it would set this year unfortunately as it was frozen out.
Sugar pearls, which you said you didn’t like, croaked in my personal orchard this season. I was looking forward to trying a white one, but I probably will have to plant one against my house to enjoy the opportunity. My Alfred, growing that way, is one of the few in the area with a half decent crop.
Just read Alan’s spraying schedule through Bob’s link, and realized I was actually following Alan’s schedule😄
I have 4 peach trees and 2 nonbearing plum and two pear, peach are my main concern. Here is what I do:
- at bud break: captan(instead of immunox) + Triazacide + copper
2)at pedal fall: captan+Triazacide
- at shuck split : captan +Triazacide
4)7-10 days after shuck split: captan + Triazacide
This pretty much control the peach brown rot and bugs. I know copper should be stayed far earlier than that, but still this controls leaf curl.
From my limited experience, the timing of pedal fall spray is very important. My 4 peach trees pedal fall time can be quite a few days apart, if I waited too long the early peach will get bug bite. Last year I hesitated for a few days when it was pedal fall spray time because of the late freeze, the first 3 peach tree ended up have 100% wormmy fruits.
This year, I didn’t wait, sprayed as each tree reaches pedal fall, so far I see very few bug bites sign.
It’s probably possible, but as you note, it takes more work and I find myself stretched a bit thin sometimes, with spraying one of my least fun activities. I think I’ve got a better chance to spray twice in the beginning, than to maintain a Surround cover for a month+.
I also think it could have at least 2 other positive effects- hopefully reduce the later insect pressures and reduce the brown rot issue (less bug bites for rot to enter through). Either way, I want to see how it does. I’m not selling the fruit, so I don’t need to worry about my “organic status”. 
I was about to say that the Lawn one probably isn’t labeled for fruit. And I think Scott has pointed out before that there could be non-active ingredients which make it unsuitable for edibles. But, Home Depot posts the label PDFs online and I was surprised to see that it is indeed labeled for fruit.
So, yes, get whichever looks newer. You may also want to look to see if the concentrations are the same, as they may not be if one is designed to be applied by hose, while the other uses a tank sprayer.
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And here’s a pic of an Asian plum (Lavina) which needs thinning. Note the PC bites which should make the decision about which to thin easier.
This branch is intruding into the space of the nearby Orange Red apricot (no fruit this year). Now, I have a decision- preserve the apricot’s space at the expense of fruit this year, or give the fruitful tree the space. I’m leaning toward cutting back the apricot…
Looks like your site may be better than mine this year, unless Lavina is relatively late flowering like Shiro. Shiro is the only variety of J. plum setting fruit like that not only at my site but most others that are more favorably located in my area. It seems like a poor year for these plums in general in my beat.
I checked crescent wounds on my Shiro and didn’t find any signs of activity under the skin. Let me know what you find.
I’m not too disappointed about not having a J. plum crop. E. plums are more valuable to me because their higher sugar makes them more suitable for culinary use and preserving by freezing pulp and using it for sauces, jams, etc. I will likely have enough J. plums to eat off the tree, just maybe not the best varieties or enough to give away bags full.
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Somehow all my J plums, (6 varieties) and pluots bloomed about the same time. Shiro set well once it has cross pollination partners.
Lavina is actually on the early side, similar to Satsuma (which has a much lighter set). Toka is much later, but also has a light set. The pic in the below link has Lavina in full bloom, next to a Laroda’s buds (almost as late as Toka). But the Laroda has a good set too this year. So, it doesn’t seem like bloom order is the driving factor.
Both Lavina and Laroda are at the fenced in bottom of a hill. Almost the definition of a frost pocket. I wonder if that kept them more consistently cold over the winter and dormant enough to take the March dip. Of course, it didn’t do anything for the apricot next to them…
I’m more excited about my Euros as well, though pluots can be pretty tasty and I’m hoping for some of them too. This is the first year that both are big enough to have much set (maybe impacted on some by last April’s frost). Another reason I’m more serious about spraying.
Lavina is my latest Japanese plum. It could be based on location but its quite a bit later than Satsuma. Its the only Jap. plum where the flowers didn’t get frozen out, but there was no set.
Alan I also am not super bummed about one year of no Japanese plums, I am able to put more energy into spraying the Euro plums and the way things are going I should get a really good crop on them. With Surround you need to have Euro plums protected a very long time as the curcs are not dying they are just moving slowly. They love to do late neck-bites on the prune-shaped plums. The round Gage types (and the Japanese plums) they leave alone later but the prune shapes are vulnerable well into May.
You’ve got me worried now- that plum tree is definitely an early bloomer, so maybe it isn’t Lavina How early is Laroda for you? If it is an early for you (it is late for me), maybe I just have the two side by side trees swapped.
Laroda is early. BTW your plums don’t look like my memory of Lavina at that stage, they look more pointed on the end compared to Lavina. It should be obvious when they fruit, Laroda tastes very similar to Santa Rosa.