I have more information for you to mull through. I emailed my friend Bob in Connecticut and his information is extremely helpful, actually. Bob writes:
"Dax, that is a hard one. My Mullahy, and my NC-4 have bore nuts during a 560 CDD, year.
Have not had anything lower, that I know of.
My information says that Green Island Beaver is Protogynous.
Your friend’s heat units are low. But, maybe the fact that he has 200 growing days, might make up for the lack of heat.
This far north, we are all guessing, as to what will work. The only way to know is to plant them and see.
Warren 346 II, Green island Beaver II, Iowa ?, Cornfield, and Snaps l, might do the job. Those four are suppose to shuck split in around 140 days. That would give them an extra 2 months to finish shuck split.
Hope that helps.
So let me break this down, Ian.
Warren 346 is type 2 what is called protogynous
Green Island Beaver is type 2
Iowa which is a grafted tree near me is type 1 which is what is called protandrous flowering. The problem with Iowa is it isn’t a good cracking pecan. It is the earliest maturing pecan we know of though. Probably a few days only to Warren 346 but earlier.
Cornfield Bob is saying is type 1.
Snaps he is saying is type 1.
Bob and I both agree without the need for words that you are certainly going to be able to grow ultra-northern varieties. Starking Hardy Giant is not going to mature for you.
As far as having all that great growth and what your Starking Hardy Giant will look like next year… don’t even blink when I suggest you cut it off leaving several branches beneath the leader to feed the scion(s) which you will bark graft another variety onto. With all that power that’s already there, you’ll literally be blown away when you see what happens after a scion knits and takes off the year after grafting. It’s mind boggling. 5-6 feet of growth the second year when grafted to a tree the size of your Starking Hardy Giant.
Here’s a video of exactly what you need to learn about bark grafting on a tree of identical everything to what you have to do. This is my best friend demonstrating.
Now since we did this video, he’s come to my side of the debate regarding foil and bags. What we both do now is either parafilm or wax the scions in advance of setting them. The scions are secured with electricians tape and the top of the seedling rootstock is covered with electricians tape so nothing can get in to dry out our grafts and/or moisture/rain cannot get in. So as we wrap the scion in place we go over the top of the cut off tree we’re grafting onto and tape that sealed shut.
If you put an unwaxed scion or a scion that has been cut for insertion on without having parafilmed it prior then you have to wrap the scion after you’ve securely got it in place and it could move. So always do your cuts on the scion, then parafilm it if you don’t use wax while you’re standing right there… & then insert it into the tree. Then tape it, and do the pruning to stimulate callousing and growth, and then and only then you’re finished.
I know this is a lot to take in, but it’s really not all that complicated. Gary there only stuck the one scion in but had we had two scions of that variety he would’ve put a second scion opposite the other. Of course you cut both scions and make your (2) vertical cuts on the seedling and place the scions in place and then with your electricians tape you wrap.
Ian, if you cut too much off the seedling the grafts will skyrocket and they could what’s known as “push away” meaning they might not callous fully but they still grow but ultimately they fail. So it’s better to leave on more branches than to remove too many.
As years progress you ‘slowly’ remove more and more of those branches until you decide the scion is all that should be left. So on that video you might at year two cut off two of the lower branches completely and continue to snip back the top branches so they don’t grow into and interfere with the scion(s).
Year three you might leave only one or two of the lower branches and remove all the top branches. Then year four your remove everything leaving only the scion to become your new tree.
As you see any buds develop along the trunk of the seedling you should always rub them off. They literally show up from under the bark in places anywhere along the trunk where you wouldn’t think they should be.
Soak this all in man. Forget about the aluminum foil and baggies and simply place scions that you’ve made long cuts on that have been parafilmed prior to insertion into the rootstock and tape it all in place going over the top of the flat wound on the rootstock sealing it all in place.
Best of luck, best regards,