Your area is due east of Nashville but the best I recall, the mountains make you a tad colder. There are three adaptations needed.
Early fall maturity is needed so the trees will mature nuts then go dormant for winter. One of those oft overlooked factors in the fall is that a tree that holds leaves longer after the nuts drop will gather more photosynthate which leads to better return bloom the next year. This helps with annual production. Countering this is animal depredation which hits early maturing nuts far harder. I have to gather nuts off the trees to keep the squirrels, jays, and crows from harvesting them.
Late spring budbreak is needed to prevent damage from late freezes. This is one area where just 2 or 3 days can make a huge difference in survival. Choose carefully to find varieties that break buds a few days later.
Strong winter dormancy is necessary to stand winter freeze/thaw cycles. Southern varieties do not go into winter with strong enough dormancy.
Stuart is surprisingly adept at missing spring freezes. Unfortunately, there are so many negatives with Stuart that I wouldn’t plant trees now. Fifty years ago, it was still scab resistant so made a lot more sense. The weaknesses of Stuart are scab susceptible, poor quality nuts often with fuzz attached, a magnet for insect pests like yellow aphids, not precocious, and low percent kernel. Strengths are late spring bud break, consistent heavy production, excellent nut fill most years, spreading growth habit, and strong wood that stands up to storms and ice better than others. You will have to make your own mind up whether to keep the Stuart tree. Given that it is already growing, it might be worth hanging on to it.
The varieties I suggest looking closely at for your area include Kanza, Hark, Major, and Lakota. Everything I’ve seen from Adams #5 so far suggests better than average wintering traits. It is probably worth getting scionwood and giving a try. I think Huffman might have a chance given that Pawnee is one parent but keep in mind that it is very late maturity. Avalon also might work if on the right rootstock. The only background info I have on Amling is that it is a Texas seedling. Nobody seems to know more than that. Harry Amling selected it and Bill Goff recommended it. The only weakness I know of so far is that ambrosia beetles ate up a young tree this past spring. I have another growing and saw several healthy trees at the E.V. Smith farm.
Ask Lucky_P for recommendations since he is much closer to your climate than I am here in Hamilton, Alabama.