Carrot root means the roots are a piece of shit right now. They look like a carrot having no fibrous roots. Nursing them back so that they might have fibrous roots again is the name of the game.
I put everything on northern pecan seedlings I purchase from Missouri’s DNR. Northern pecan seedlings are cold-hardy thru zone 4a and will grow thru zone 8 I’m sure without a hiccup. Every now and then I have my own seedlings of Hark and I’ll graft onto F2 Hark. It’s nursery practice to graft hickory, hican, to pecan. A growing season on pecan roots is longer than on hickory roots and the hickory/hican nut will mature it’s nut (kernels) and be larger overall.
The requirements of anything within the Genus Carya is pollen exchange when the pistillates are receptive and when the staminites are shedding. Therefore a hican could be pollinated from a pecan or hickory or any combination therof. The problem with this however is that hicans shed pollen when the vast majority of pecans are not shedding or receptive and vice versa. The best bet is hican along with other hicans or hickories with other hickories and pecans with pecans. Still, you need to know pollen shed dates and whether a tree is receptive first or shedding first. If you don’t know what I’m saying look up the terms proandrous and protogynous.
I have other hicans and hickories, too. I was looking at them, yesterday. There are some in single #'s that I’ll want to plant for stock plants though. I’ll have a complete list ready next year. Those with carrot roots being in the same containers will require that I tug on them to see if they’ll come out too easy (will need another year if the case) of if they rooted in enough to be sellable.
How do you control stinkbugs damage on your trees? Last year the stinkbugs destroyed my pecans on my one producing tree (Sumner pecan). This year it is loaded with small nutlets and I am determined not to let that happen again, I know that Bill Reid recommends spraying for stinkbugs beginning about the first of August with various insecticides of which I can’t find in the stores. Last year I sprayed some with liquid Carbaryl but apparently did not spray enough. I am located just east of Memphis.
Thanks, that is helpful. Working on the chronology of some 24 northern pecans here in NW California highlands as they become fruitful. Just have 3 Hickory and 2 Hican in same general area so hopefully that will work.
@tennessean Buffalo leafhoppers are worth spraying in my friends opinion. My friend doesn’t think you’ll be able to find what Bill Reid uses. You’re probably going to have to use Malathion or Sevin. That’s about the only thing you can spray and not be worried about the nut.
You might look for Tempo insecticide. You’ll have to read the label though. I browsed it and didn’t see mention of fruit or nut trees. It is ok for restaurant kitchens and all kinds of public places, uses.
Thanks Dax. After doing some research on this today, I will also spray a permethrin-based product such as Bonide Eight Insect Control spray. I noticed that it is labeled for pecans. I missed that last year. Its limited to 5 sprays a year but I will rotate it with the Malathion and/or Sevin.
One other thought. I have read that Sevin is most effective against insects with chewing mouthparts while Malathion works best against insects with sucking mouthparts. Really don’t know which mouthparts the Buffalo leafhoppers and stinkbugs have but if I combine the two into one spray I should be covered. I am thinking that the leafhoppers are the same as leaffooted bugs.
Also, I will keep the weeds mowed better this year to cut down on the the hiding places for the damned bugs. Thanks again.
Just a question re Dooley Pecan if anyone knows. It is shown as protandrous on USDA http://cgru.usda.gov/CARYA/PECANS/dooley.htm but I can’t find the dates of pollen shed and pistillate receptivity listed anywhere on the web. Does anyone happen to know?
Thanks Barksllip, I got it as pollen shed from -10 to -5 and pistillate flowers from -7 to +3 relative to Stuart. I got a copy of Wes’ book from him in the mail today. It is on page 97.
Would anyone with bearing trees be able to provide about 10 pounds of northern varieties of pecan to ship overseas? I’ve been asked about seed for a location in Romania. Climate is similar to northern Kentucky so Major, Hark, Kanza, and a few others would be good candidates. My bearing trees are all southern varieties so would not be adapted.
After being sick for the last few days, I walked out to my Sumner pecan tree today. Being a late season pecan, I would have thought that the squirrels would not be even aware of the the nuts. But dammit was I wrong! Cuttings all the way around the tree. Nothing to do but to put my guard up.
Hopefully, it will be a good pecan year, despite the tree rats. Its hard to be successful at pecans.
I made up a pecan pollination spreadsheet that contains pollen shed data on quite a few southern and a few Northern varieties. I’ll post it in a few weeks if anyone is interested. You will need Excel to use it.
Have any of the pecan cultivars split shuck yet in your area?
None have yet to open here. The trees are just starting to produce so the earliest that has nuts is Carson #3.
Kanza, Posey, Major started shuck-split a couple of weeks back, here. I’m having to battle the crows for nuts.
Green River, Oswego(first year for it to bear) and Nacono are now splitting and dropping.
Really bad scab infection on Peruque, JayFord, and I-20. Osage scabs pretty bad here, though it’s generally considered to have good resistance.
Looks like a good hickory crop on some trees… Have gathered about 8 gallons of nuts from my favorite shagbark hickory, Morris #1.
Have not checked crops on my named-variety seedling black walnut planting, but of the grafted trees in the nutgrove and around the barnlot, Thomas Myers and the two figured-grained clones, Lamb’s Curly and Christofersen B-22 have produced good crops; none on the other grafted BWs this time around.
