I have an SP systems backpack sprayer. Years ago I needed a long wand and called them. As I recall (years ago though, so memory ???) they sold me a nice long wand.
You might contact them to see what they have to offer.
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Agreed, you should be able to get an extension for any decent backpack sprayer. The threading is similar across several brands so it might also be that some other brand will work. Note I have not noticed which brands have common threads.
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I dug out an old extension wand I got from SP Systems. I think this is a 6’ extension. It’s made of fiberglass.
I also have one for Solo, but it doesn’t have the same threads as the SP (although as Scott mentioned, I think some brands do have interchangeable threads, just not SP and Solo).
![KIMG0450[1]](https://d55v7rs15ikf5.cloudfront.net/original/3X/e/0/e09898ccc0a4a548970695bcc98f3176a9df9425.JPG)
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Wow, six feet? That’s amazing. I can’t imagine they still make anything like that…
Well, now you are making me wonder if it’s 5’ vs 6’. 
I didn’t put a lot of time snapping the photo and already put the wand back up. Either way I bet SP still carries a long extension.
That was the second extension I bought from them. The other one started leaking at the fitting I think and threw it away. As I recall, the rep I talked to said this one was better, which was why I bought it. I don’t use it much anymore, but occasionally I’ll spray a tree with that backpack sprayer.
For power wand sprayers, I’ve made my own extensions out of small diameter stainless steel pipe. They are heavier, so those are something like 3’ I think.
I think I found it here:
…if you scroll down the list, a 66.5" brass wand extension (SWKIT28) is there, though rather expensive. Almost half the cost of the sprayer itself!
So my peach tree dropped all the leaves. Or I should say the peach part of my peach tree dropped the leaves. But two branches that I grafted plum on still holding on to the leaves. Is this a sign of stress or does plum normally hold on to leaves longer than peach?
Should I just take those leaves off and spray the tree?
I would spray with the leaves on. This way the spray will hit anything that is still pestilence still clinging to the leaves. at this time of the year I would not worry about the spray killing the leaves. Even if so you would not be losing much.
The only downside is to make sure that the leaves don’t block the spray from hitting all parts of the branch itself.
Mike
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I think it depends on the variety of Plum.Some of mine still have quite a few leaves,while the Peach/Nectarine branches are almost bare.
So,I agree with Mike,to spray without defoliating.
Is Copper being applied for Peach Leaf Curl,or something,as a general preventative? Brady
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I didn’t have peach leaf curl. Spraying copper for bacterial spot and as preventative really…
Ian,
Now I remember I got the brass extension first. That’s the one I had trouble with, and then went to the fiberglass extension.
Susu,
As a preventative for peach leaf curl, it’s generally recommended to wait till just about all the leaves are gone. The fungus can overwinter in the leaf scar (after the leaves have fallen). That said, I sprayed for leaf curl on some trees which hadn’t lost all that many leaves. Leaf curl isn’t generally a huge issue here. One spray always takes care of it. That’s why I wasn’t too worried about spraying some trees a little early. Plus I may come back in the spring and spray some copper for frost protection. I did that this year and felt it helped reduced frost losses quite a bit, although I didn’t do any kind of controlled study.
I’ve noticed peaches will keep their leaves quite a bit longer if they have lots of nitrogen. My peaches almost always keep their leaves longer than plum. But as Brady points out, it depends on the variety of the plum. I have all Euro plums. They lose their leaves fairly early, probably because they have a lot of bac. spot issues here.
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Has anyone ever used a scalpel instead of a grafting knife? Would it work?
I have access to scalpels and they are nice and sharp but unless the twig was small I don’t think there would be enough strength in the instrument to make the cut without breaking (disposable) or pulling the blade off (nondisposable).
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Or slipping and ungrafting a finger
Mike!
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My sister has access to some scalpels and I was just wondering if I should ask her to acquire some for me. 
. But my wood is thicker, so I guess the scalpels wouldn’t suit. Thank you!
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I use scalpels to gross specimens at work. I use the large #60 size, which I’ve broken cutting a piece of skin. I’m a lot more careful now. I would worry the high carbon blades could break on something like jujube or pecan.
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I ordered a sticker online and have been putting off my fall spray until I get the sticker. Should get it this week. But the problem is after tomorrow night we are getting frost every night for at least two weeks. My understanding is that it’s not ok to spray when temps below 32 are in the forecast?
If I spray in the morning when temps are close to 40, there should be close to 10 hours before the temps dip down to 32 again. Is this ok?
What sticker did you get?
I too put off my sprays until I get some sticker.
Ended up getting the Bonide Turbo that was recommended in a recent thread.
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I may be in trouble…ordered apple trees for late fall delivery and I just got notice that they have been shipped. All our trees are not dormant yet—getting there–and we’re are having unseasonably warm weather…70’s day but 40’s mostly at night. Last two nights were in the 30’s. No 30’s forecast ed for the next two weeks though. How bad of a problem do I have?
Katy
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