Yes Mark, that’s exactly what I do, unless I do an occasional cleft graft on bigger stock. Then I just use it the regular 3/4" width.
It takes a little time to slice the Temflex roll lengthwise. I use a razor knife and cut it about 3 layers deep, one time around. When I use up that much, I go around it again with a razor knife to cut another three layers.
Unlike Alan, I prefer the feel of the stretchy-ness of the rubber tape. Plus I like that the rubber sticks to itself, even if it gets a little dirty (once the adhesive of the vinyl tape gets dirty, it doesn’t stick to itself very good). But the thing I like most about the rubber tape, is that it is easy to remove, or removes itself.
When I bud in the fall, I like to wait for the buds to callus in, then remove the tape to determine which bud grafts were successful (sometimes by then, the rubber tape has already busted by itself). Then paint around the grafted bud (sort of makes a bullseye, with the grafted bud in the middle). This helps me in the Spring because when I transplant those budded rootstocks, I can clearly see the bullseye (where the real action is). Then when I go through and rub off all the other growth, I can do it quickly and don’t accidentally rub off the grafted bud. My eyes are getting weaker as I grow older, so the paint really helps me.
Everyone has different methods of grafting, which work best for them, but for me, the Temflex really fits my overall propagation practice. I do use parafilm over the whole thing, partly because I’m afraid the Temflex will unroll from the graft some by itself. I don’t know that it would, but since I use the parafilm to cover the grafted bud (or in the case of scionwood grafts, use parafilm to cover the scionwood) I cover the Temflex with parafilm while I’m at it.
I’m cheap as they come. I get rolls of the vinyl from HD for about 60 cents per. But as I said, the real reason I use vinyl is because it is less stretchy and allows firmer wrapping.
I just got a role of the cheap tape from harbor freight in a town somewhat close to here and we will see how it does. Think it was around $5 per roll. These stores are everywhere around Kansas City.
Clrk,
Let me know how stretchy your new “toy” is. After a couple of year using Temflex sparingly, I used it 95% of this year first round grafts (60 grafts). I love its stretchiness.
The black color absorbs heat so fast. I don’t know if I will use it when I graft peaches at 70 F temp. I am afraid it eould be too hot for graft unions.
@Olpea, are you ever concerned about having black tape on peach graft unions? In general, at what temp do you graft peaches, please?
I used electrical tape exclusively for all of me first grafts…probably 20 - 25, not a huge sample size but enough to see that it works just fine…only in the last month did I finally get some parafilm, love that stuff…anyway, the electrical tape worked great for me, even in sunny hot Florida…as far as removing it, I’ve seen the tape will naturally begin to lose it’s adhesive properties in a about 4 weeks or so and will slowy start to unwrap…I’ll take a few pictures of some of mine that are about to be removed, grafts were done anywhere from 6 - 8 weeks ago.
Just a couple of thoughts, electrical tape comes in white (and other colors too) if black will absorb too much sun. And while it is a bit tricky, I generally wrap in parafilm and put the electrical tape on top of that. This way the tape will come off without pulling any bark.
70 degrees certainly won’t hurt peach grafts- I won’t worry about it until temps go above the 80’s. I did some experimenting with white tape last season but it didn’t improve my results with plums. I make a point of waiting for 70 degrees before grafting peaches and nects. You can always come back with foil or white tape to cover the black- even white spray paint would probably work, but when higher temps have come a couple weeks after grafts I haven’t experienced clear problems. .I see a clear correlation between better sun exposure and graft growth, so the heating up of tape can’t be a consistent problem and may more likely be helpful for rapid healing and better growth.
I do mostly peach budding (in late summer) but I would thing the same principles (as far as temps go) would apply (i.e. the bud has to callus in without dying, as is also the case for spring graft tissue).
For fall budding, ideal temps for me are between 80 and 90F. I can bud when daytime temps are a little above 90 F, but if it’s very much above 90F (like b/t 95 and 100F) it will spell widespread failure for me.
I use the Temflex and then about 2-3 wraps of parafilm over the Temflex. I’m careful not to cover the little bud itself with Temflex.
I think I might do some grafting of peaches today, mostly to contribute a little to the peach grafting thread. I actually prefer fall budding because it’s so easy and fast.
Here, I shoot for September 1, as an average date. I pay attention to expected temps, so if the temps are perfect the week before, I start. Once the grafts start to callus in (about a week) it doesn’t matter what the temps do. I will go ahead and continue to bud up to the second week in September if temps are ideal. Much after that and there is not enough time for callusing before winter.
Here’s a pic of a peach graft from last fall, starting to push. Redskin moved from nursery row to orchard last fall, after callusing. I’ll need to behead above the growth, which I’ll do today.
I need to start doing that on peach varieties I decide I don’t like- it can be difficult to transform a whole tree with splice grafts high in the tree.
Mark,
I wrap graft union with parafilm first and tighten the union with Temflex so the black stuff is outside. I have to think about it.
I have not done summer budding for a while. I should try it this year. Your bud is lower than I expected. How old is the tree that you budded on, please?
I think that’s a year old, but sometimes there are some I don’t get grafted until the second year. As long as the rootstock isn’t too big, it doesn’t seem to matter. Here’s one of the Clayons I moved last fall. I’m looking for a replacement for Harken, which fits that window.
I’ve been typing from my phone, so I hope it works. Here’s a Clayton. Notice the one behind which isn’t pushing. I think it will, but if I have extra grafts I double up.
