I think that’s probably most of it, but places farther north have other contributory canker issues to contend with. Extreme cold winters (which you don’t get) are also supposedly bad for canker. But longer periods of moderately cool weather during the spring dormant season (which MI gets) is also bad for canker. Apparently the canker will spread even during the dormant season if the temperature is just cool. For canker spread, the longer the cool dormant period, the better.
I read MSU and Paul Friday (as you know also from MI) write about the threats of canker. I also recall a commercial peach grower in northern IL mention that perennial canker was a very serious problem for him, so it may be a good thing you are on the lookout for it.
MI has the big advantage of the moderating lakes, which insure regular tree crops, plus good soil around the lakes, but the long cool dormant season is a small disadvantage for peaches. As you know, on balance, it’s a great place to grow peaches, and a good many other things.
That may be it. Back when Nafex was the thing, there was a guy in Nebraska who tried the DWN multiple trees in a hole and he claimed it didn’t work for him, for the very reason you mention. The trees blew over.
I haven’t had any problems with that. If they are close enough the roots get completely braided in with each other and you can’t budge them from each other. I have dug up a few and found that out.
I plant my multi-trees in one hole as close as I can get them, partly to help the roots knit together better. It may be the guy in Nebraska had them a lot further apart. DWN recommends a foot, I am usually more like 6" or sometimes less.
That also makes sense. I still prefer to give a tree its space and just graft different varieties- but my trees are much longer lived than yours so I realize why you do what you do.
Now that we have Maryland weather, maybe my trees will weaken.
I would just support the branches when they get fruit. If you’re that worried about it plant a tree right now next to it for a replacement if it goes wrong. Peach trees grow fast before you know it you have fruit on a new tree.
Thank you all for sharing the information you have. I love the chance to learn from other’s experiences not matter how much experience you have.
Well, good news and bad news. Closer inspection of the base showed me (I think) that both branches are above the graft mark, but, I did find a jelly-like substance at the left side of the base. Is that canker? It was very soft and kinda seeping into the dirt. I also tried digging down with my fingers to see if I could feel how deep the root was below the surface of the soil and it was only about 1-2 inches till I could feel a big root. I know when we planted we were concerned about how close the graft was to the root. Perhaps we erred too much on the side of making sure the root was covered. But the whole graft union is above ground. This is a Sentry peach “dwarf supreme” from Stark Bros. . .do not know the rootstock.
My husband just painted the trees in hopes of outlasting any warm spells, so sorry if that makes it a little less clear on the trunk. We lost all our peach blooms last year to a cold snap after a warm up, as did a lot of y’all. (We’re in the Shenandoah Valley of VA)
My grandparents had a few fruit trees but unfortunately, by the time I was paying attention, they weren’t really able to care for the trees any longer and so didn’t pass on any pruning or growing wisdom. But they did pass on a love for growing things. I did learn about some pests and diseases, and see what happens when trees go untended for some years.
Hey you learn from everything. Did you see any sawdust in the jelly? If so that may be borers and not canker. Keep that base open, and I would clear some of the soil away even if it is a hole. I don’t have any good photos. On this tree I just put an inch of compost around it, so it is not exposed as usual. I usually use Tree-Tone, then put shredded leaves down and cover with compost. I ran out of leaves this year, so no leaves. You can still see a small root here, and it is mounded too. next time do this, roots need to be near the surface, most feeder roots are right at the surface and is why grass takes so much away from them.
This is Nadia and the rootstock is St Julien So far I like this rootstock a lot for plums.
I tried to brush the compost back, it’s wet though, here is a Satsuma plum on Myrobalan or Lovell, can’t remember? Notice the start of roots is above ground.
Planting high may not be all that helpful, but it keeps the trunk high and dry so canker, and even borers are going to have a harder time getting a foothold. And you can see better if you have issues, The roots need oxygen too, this helps. So plant them high and proud! If you look closely you can see feeder roots right at the base of the trunk, which you will not see at all in low planted trees, this expands the area for roots to grow under the drip line.
I think you have borers from your description and they must be dug
out of the tree. Your tree is still young enough to be killed by the infestation.
As an aside, I have a nectarine that was double grafted and grew into the
same V formation. I decided to leave the V and both sides are growing nicely.
As long as you keep the tree properly pruned, you should have no problems
I agree Ray with the pruning part, no matter how hard I try to shape some trees, often they find a way to defeat me so I let them go, and I have had no problems even with heavy crops. Yeah could be borers, could be canker, and I don’t want to brag, but I will, nobody else saw the problem, the student is becoming the master.
I like the wall of suckers on one side of the tree. If you could get it all the way around it would be a free fence. And when that tree is done you can graft a couple of those over
That’s a good observation Murky. But those aren’t suckers. I threw a bunch of old pears under some of the peach trees to get some pear rootstocks and that’s what you’re seeing. I have been grafting some of them to pears.
Every time I see that jelly at the base, it’s borers. I don’t get very excited about borers because they never affect performance of my trees. Apparently hasn’t affected the performance of yours either, judging by your trees vigor. Peach trees can have 1/2 the bark gone on the trunk and it doesn’t seem to slow them.
I can’t tell from the photos how far around the tree the borers have eaten,but unless they’ve eaten all the way around your tree, it will be fine. You do need to kill them though. When I see the jelly a the base I give them a drenching with Lorsban (insecticide) and the borers are done.
You probably don’t have Lorsban available, but others use permethrin insecticide and apparently it works as well for them.
Peach borers are very common and one of the easiest things to manage. But if neglected they will kill a young tree, as Ray mentions.
If you choose to go the natural method and dig them out, make sure you don’t damage more bark getting the borers out, and make sure you get all the borers. Sometimes there’s more than one.
For the record, I would still lop off one of the dual trunks. Borers at the base wouldn’t affect that decision. Your tree may hold together when it gets older but probably not, unless it has some support. If you’ll notice, the bark is already inverted in the crotch. When I see a young peach tree like that, it generally spells trouble down the road. I’ve got a couple older trees at the farm which are splitting and need to be removed.
If you choose to keep both trunks, I would definitely tie them together as they get older.
I have the same v crotch on my young going on 3rd year in ground. Would like to know if I should cut one side off and would it damage tree? It does appear tree is cracking in v as you can see it in the pictures. [ ![20200403_113157|486x1000]
