I ordered the TangOs II and Earlystar from Adams. I don’t recall ever seeing any chill hours for those varieties.
I know of one grower who grew both varieties in Tallapoosa GA (about the same latitude of Alanta). Both were also tested at Clemson, but that’s more the north part of SC.
Other peentos have pretty low chill, so my guess is that the NJF varietes are also fairly low chill. Saturn has less than 500 hrs, and Galaxy has about 250 hrs (I believe it with Galaxy because it’s the very first peach to bloom here - about a week before others start to bloom.)
I know that doesn’t answer your question, but I don’t know the specific chill hours.
I am really trying to focus on varieties which perform well in meager years. It’s not just this last year, but many years where peaches partially crop in this area. In fact, that is more the norm (partial crops) for peaches in my area, both from other growers I’ve talked to, and my own experience. A smaller percentage of the time (10 to 20 percent) there are full peach crops (or no peach crop). It’s mostly partial crops we live with.
That being the case, there are many varieties which are blank in “partial crop” years and many varieties produce full crops in “partial crop” years. The variance is astounding, when you see these varieties side by side.
I’m tired of taking care of trees which produce no real revenue. It’s been an adjustment for me as I’ve made the transition from backyard growing to commercial (still learning). As a backyard grower, the “fun aspect” of trying and keeping lots of varieties, even though they don’t produce much, becomes much less practical as a commercial grower. It takes too much time to tend unproductive trees.
So I’ve been pulling more unproductive trees, if more productive ones can be found for that window. Actually I’ve been doing this slowly for the last 3 years, just increasing scrutiny this year. I started with about 100 varieties of peaches in order to trial lots of different ones. I’ve slowly been culling a lot of those out.
I have removed a lot of white varieties, which are typically more prone to bac. spot here. I’ve also removed a lot of nects, which can fail to develop adequate sugar for me. Plus both are harder to sell (especially nects).
This year I’ve removed lots of plums, because my Euro plums are hard to sell, take a long time to produce, and don’t produce that much fruit, compared to a peach. Asian plums bloom too early for my area.
I ordered more Intrepid and Challenger to replace some peaches in their windows. Challenger fruited for the first time this summer, and it was very good. I haven’t fruited Intrepid yet, but have had enough good experiences with NC peaches, I ordered more Intrepid based on NC’s claims.
Here are some varieties I got rid of this year.
Johnboy (removed some Johnboy, but kept some in the higher spot of the orchard)
Ernies Choice (like Johnboy, removed the Ernies choice in the lower part of the orchard, but kept some in the upper part)
Lady Nancy (removed several but kept a couple)
Coe’s Golden drop
Castleton (kept one tree for pollination)
Long John (kept one tree for pollination)
Several mislabled plums
I removed a few summer apples too.
I wish some university would do this research for my area, it would have been worth thousands of dollars to me. But I’m not aware of any comprehensive research which has been done on the reliability of today’s peach varieties in marginal climates. There are bits and pieces of information out there, but nothing trialing lots of varieties for both cold hardiness and good cropping in marginal spring weather. On top of that, some of the information out there is not that accurate.
One thing I have learned is that occasionally I’ve read descriptions of varieties which are “plant and pick” meaning no thinning needed. Translation = doesn’t produce enough to feed a squirrel