Utility knives are certainly better than a dull blade, but aren’t as sharp or rigid as a grafting knife should be, in my opinion.
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You may be right. I was having a hard time putting a nice edge on a knife this spring untell I resorted to the bench grinder. I wish I could find straight edge utility knife blades.
So, what’s the rootstock on those? (Or do you roll the dice and see what turns up?)
I didn’t buy one yet, so I don’t know. There’s no info on the tag either, so it would be a guess. The tag recommend 15ft between trees, so it may be a semi-dwarf?
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No, just the union. I use parafilm for the rest of the scion. For that matter, I usually put some parafilm on the Temflex as well.
Vinyl electric tape sometimes chokes apples and pears but seem to stretch fine under the added pressure of peaches and plums- especially peaches. Peach scions can get very thick in a hurry, but the tape never constricts them no matter how tightly I wrap. The tape winds up about a third as wide.
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I’ve ordered from Bay Laurel and the roots were butchered, but the trees ended up fine. I guess trees are a lot more resilient than we think. I mean, butchered roots wouldn’t be my preference, but as you (and I) showed, it’s not necessarily a deal breaker.
Also, on the plus side, you don’t have to dig as large of a hole…so there’s that. 
Yes, I like doing W/T even when there is a mismatch. Haven’t tried 3:1 but have gone around 2:1.
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Yes, the trees do recover but I’ve planted same size trees at same time, same species, and the trees with butchered roots seem to lose some time and take longer to establish. I won’t order from Bay Laurel again.
Whip or splice grafts look nice, but the ugly wedge looks stronger to me, if you get good contact, and good scarring. usually it’s a smaller scion, and it has support from wood bigger than itself. Easy to see too. I can’t always get matches for splice grafts, so I go to the wedge. Often i want to replace a scaffold, I need it low, so it’s thicker wood. And here we need to do these grafts early and the bark may not be slipping. So not much choice in the matter. For me timing has been everything, the type of grafts doesn’t seem to matter, all work for me. I’m going to try some Z and companion grafts this year just to see if I like them. Really plan to do these with figs only. Maybe try the Z on stone fruit.
I agree what you say, but if I want to try say a June Pride Peach, not sure where else I could get it? Grow Organic probably carries, but I don’t want the tree in January.
Anyway I got scion, and yes the patent is expired and looks to be a super peach, but might not be suitable for here. Still looking at it, i have to try this one no doubt!
Go to this thread and look at those photos!!
500 chill hours (I grow the Nectaplum here no prob 250 chill hours)
Bloom season late midseason (this may make it work here)
Zones 6-9
Harvest Dates
July 1 to July 20
(approximate for Hickman, CA)
This one is worth testing. I’m at a stage I have all proven winners in now. I will get a harvest no matter what, time to experiment.
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