Would you have done things differently?

I don’t have that problem. I have 2 large peach trees and one nect producing. (another peach tree is too young).

By the harvest time, I may just have enough good peaches to eat and give away to a few friends. Bugs, critters like squirrels and brown rot have taken care of many peaches for me :angry:

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4 sprays of captan take care of brown rot for me. Cats roaming in the yard so I never lose any fruits to squirrels.
I need to prune hard so I can get better quality instead of quantity peaches.

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You have no OFM, PC or the like?
I’d move next to you :smile:

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Thanks for all the great replies and stories. The great thing about this site is that we not only learn from our own mistakes, but also from the mistakes of others!

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It saves time that way, fersure!

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Peach pie is a favorite here, although most get eaten fresh. Also could graft plum or pluot to your trees I believe.

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Not sure about grafting plum and pluot on a peach rootstock. I know from my experience grafting nectarine and apricot on peach is fine.

On prunus americana, you can graft more stuff on that rootstock.

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As long as you are using Lovell, Nemaguard, or Citation rootstock, the most popular, you will be fine. Check your rootstock first but is probably one of these. You also can graft apricot to these!

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I’m very new to this growing fruit thing, but there are a few things I would’ve done before starting this hobby. I should’ve got a soil report where I was planning to grow my fruit trees. The first orchard is in very acidic soil (~5.0), and nutrient poor. If I knew what it needed I would have amended the soil before planting the trees. Namely putting down a lot of lime, and some triple 10 fert.

The 11 apple trees are mostly OK, but some are still struggling to get going, and the two peach trees have not put on much growth even after almost two years.

The other orchard’s 13 trees have been doing very well, but they are in an old horse pasture, so it is very fertile. The soil report for that area was much better, pH about 6, and good nutrient levels.

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I grafted pluots and plums onto my peach tree this year and they are growing out faster than the peach limbs that I left on the tree. This is only one growing season but they appear compatible.

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Peach accepts: (some apricots but not all. The majority of apricots will not graft to peach. What percentages I do not know.) Peach accepts Asian and European plums; all peaches/nectarines, naturally; pluots and all hybrid stone fruits having plum or peach within them.

Prunus americana, American plum accepts everything above as-well with a less favorable acceptability for apricots. I’m sure some apricots will graft to it, however.

Stark Bro’s uses what they call red-leaf plum (some think it’s citation however it is not.) It’s a seedling. So the genetics in my opinion having watched my own trees grown on it have resulted in two apricots dying unexpectedly. My peaches and plum on the same are growing exceptionally. The apricots really never had a lot of vigor, either. I’ve since concluded it’s too much of a mixed basket. Sure only two trees, but, I’ve seen apricots on apricot seedlings and talked to a friend with very large apricot trees that he grew from seed and set multiple many grafts on that flourish. I don’t have a recommendation for California or hot zone 8 areas and above, but for the midwest and probably most of the nation and including the pacific northwest (Portland OR type of weather for example or Seattle or higher mountainous regions of the PNW and surely California too…) Prunus mandshurica is the go to rootstock for apricots. Prunus mandshurica is zones 3-7. I’m planting a Prunus mandshurica this fall for the sole purpose to grow rootstocks.

Dax

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Will also add when in a pinch, try apricot on Prunus avium, sweet cherry. I visited a garden this summer and the guy is a retired biology professor… and he said he’s been grafting apricot on Prunus avium for many years. The success rates we didn’t discuss. He rattled it off pretty quickly though.

Dax

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Dax,

Good to know. Thanks. I’ve got lucky then that a few apricots I grafted on peach and nectarine trees have taken. Tom Cot, Orangered, Zard and may be one more, that I can’t remember.

Afganistan is a no.

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Zard is a no, too.

Dax

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So far, it is not dead yet on my peach tree. Need to check it after work to see it’s still alive!!!

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here is my 20/20 hind sight and not necessarily in any particular order

Get started earlier, we were in our home almost 5 years before I planted the first blueberry bush, 8 or 9 before I planted the first fruit tree
Done more research on what varieties grow successfully in my region…learned the hard way that just because the nursery sells it, doesn’t mean it will thrive in my particular location
Better site preparation and selection early on I would dig a hole, throw the plant in and hope for the best
Do a better job with proper fertilizing regimen to get healthier plants /trees.

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If I could go back I would have pruned my fruit trees so they were more defensible. Something more like this


Love Dave Spellman and watched his videos many times, but open center does not work if you want to get fruit in my area.
I’m in the process of conversion but knowing from the git go that vermin were FAR more interested in fruit than my veggies was suprising to me.

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Of course I do! I can’t tell if it’s OFM or PC or both. I spray Triazacide with the captan to control the bugs with various degree of success. This year the Triazacide didn’t work too well. %50 of the peach I harvest so far have worms.

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If the entry hole is small, round one and the worm walks, it is OFM. If it is crescent shape mark and the worm wiggles ( can’t walk away), that’plum curculio.

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Just checked. Zard and Robada look good on my peach tree. Moniqui is hanging in there. Orangered and Tomcot grow like gangbusters.

Afganistan and Stark Delicious do not make it.

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