That’s interesting Derby. I’ve always not liked the looser connection of splitting the bark in a vertical slit. I’ve not had a lot of experience grafting on large understocks. Thanks for the tip.
That’s how we did it at the apple orchard I worked at, no slit bark graft. Then vinyl tape around the stub and Doc Farwells sealant over it all. The owner also told us not to leave any nurse limbs…huh?!? We converted 3 or so acres this spring, stumping them at 2-3’, and top working hard cider varieties onto the decapitated trees. Better, tighter connection should help against blow outs later on.
How long after grafting the persimmon and pawpaw did you start to see growth? How were your temperatures during that time?
This waiting stuff is killing me, I swear. Probably doesn’t help that this time of year I’m out looking at and doing stuff in the yard every day.
About a week or so to see some greentips push, not all of them showing this, but enough to encourage me😀
Fireblight killed my Seckel Pear to the ground last year.
Three new varieties grafted to the green rootstock suckers about a month ago.
Warren, Winter Nellis, and Beurre Fouqueray.
I haven’t used the Omega grafter that my brother gave me for Christmas too much yet- I actually prefer the cleft graft for most purposes. But, I have been experimenting with it on some peach and nectarine grafts. That is the area where I feel like there is the most room to improve my take rate. One problem is that I can only use fairly large scions with it, so I’m fairly limited in how many of these I can make.
The saddle graft sure is a nice looking graft when using a grafting tool! I did some of those years ago that turned out very nice in The long run.The tools are wonderful when you have perfect pencils for rootstock and scions. One trick I use since the perfect stuff seldom exists and is slightly different for every tool is I grow my rootstock out a year or two until somewhere on my rootstock is the perfect diameter then I cut it in that spot when making my graft. That makes higher grafts than is normal. Then when I cut my scions from my trees I take my perfect pencil with me to gauge the caliper. When I was new to grafting I used a cresent wrench to slide over the branch to gauge the width of the branch until I found the correct size. If you create the perfect grafting conditions in that way you can graft 100’s of field grafts in an hour. Unfortunately your limited to that perfect scenario to get the most out of your grafting tool. That was a great present!
I tried the grafting tool. I like it, but there are 3 issues to deal with. One, the grafting wood has to be in certain size range. Second, I have to put a counter rotating twist on the piece I’m cutting to make sure it stays centered. Else, it will cut off to the side with smaller pieces. Third, the bark tends to separate easily and become a mess if the bark is slipping (on the stock). If I can manage these issues, then I can get more grafts out of a scion.
What about the tools that cut chip buds, do they work ? I am looking at one to do chip budding this summer as my take rate right now is almost zero so I would like to improve it.
I’ve been using the omega tool for three years and love it. I can do one bud grafts with it if I need to stretch the bud wood out. Plus it’s so fast!
I like my omega tool as well. It’s worked very well.
I am declaring victory on about 60% of my apple and pear grafts. Here are some of the varieties newly grafted into my orchard:
Sun Tan [orange tape]
2 weeks in, I can say that today, for the first time, I have noticed a tiny (pin sized really) speck of green on a pawpaw I grafted.
I’m not ready to stop holding my breath yet, though.
Nice looking grafts Matt
Matt I wish you were closer. I’d shadow you for an hour or so of grafting.
When did you graft these?
The grafts look great.
I use a variation of @applenut’s methods. I think his tutorial videos are the best.
I am finding cleft grafts and chip grafts work best. I also do an occassional saddle graft or rind graft.
My most successful grafts are those that are given apical dominance (performed at the top of the central leader or highest branch). Cut or pinch off any buds or growth above and below where the desired scion was placed. Let it sit high in the most premium spot and remove its competition.