2018 Grafting Thread


#21

My experience has been: The rootstock is on the smaller side, so not much growth goes into the graft, which means the first year has minimal growth. This works out nicely because it gives the rootstock a chance to catch up with the scion. The next year, the rootstock should be strong enough to handle any growth from the scion. This of course probably varies from rootstock to rootstock. You could always stake the tree and tie the rootstock and scion to the stake so nothing bad happens in a strong storm.

This isn’t something I would not recommend unless you absolutely have no other source of scionwood available. This is what I was sent, so I had no choice in the matter. That being said, I have been doing it for years and my trees are all fine. If it wasn’t freezing cold and pouring down rain, I’d go outside and photograph some older grafts that I did this too.


#22

King David graft on Dorsett Golden, looks like it will be successful.


#23

Itching to do some grafting. Last year around this time I did most of my peach grafting. But this year peach tree is still dormant, exception is a small branch of flavor supreme getting ready to flower.
Hopefully the warm weather next few days will get things going.


#24

related to peach trees but not to grafting…here is the latest addition to my collection…the tropic snow white fleshed peach…


#25

I’m so excited. My first ever grafts seem to be working. I put a few Granny Smith on my winesap and the buds are swelling. Also put methley and superior onto my santa Rosa and they are swelling. Now I’m thinking about all the grafts I want to do. Lol. I’ll get some pics when it stops raining.
Mike


#26

This is last year’s graft of Korean Giant. Was wondering if I should prune off all side branches and just leave a central leader?


#27

Here are mine. First time ever. Superior on Santa Rosa. Granny Smith on winesap. Used electrical tape because I’m cheap and an electrician. Lol.



Proud of myself but afraid I’ve created a monster.
Mike


#28

If the new growth is as low as I think it is I would remove all except the most vigorous upright one. I would also use a support for the remainig one.


#29

That’s what I was thinking and yes it’s only about 15 inches tall. I have already pruned, thanks.


#30

When ever I see people graft seedlings I see them grafting to the trunk. I haven’t seen anybody letting the seedling branch out and then graft to the branches. Is there a reason for this?
I have this peach seedling from last year and it got 4 nice scaffolds. Should I graft to them? Just wondering why people don’t let seedlings branch out before grafting.


#31

You certainly can graft to each branch; it’s done lots. You could graft to all four of those branches. If you go that route plan to cut the branch off about six to twelve inches from the trunk. You can bud graft as soon as the bark is slipping, and you can chip, cleft, or whip any time. My apple and pear are both done that way. My prune on tomentosa rootstock is directly on the trunk.

It’s possible to cut all or most of the major limbs off of a pretty good sized fruit tree and graft to the stubs, and you can also cut back all the minor branches and graft to them. Why, in no time at all you can get so confused you’ll want to start over! (Just speaking from personal experience here. :-).


#32

Plan on doing the same with mine that I grew from seed. The tree is doing really well, but it doesn’t seem to want to fruit.


#33

Nice tree. How old is it?


#34

Thanks. It’s going on 3 years.


#35

My neighbor’s ornamental plums on our fence line were untended for many years and growing out of control, shading the plants on my side of the fence and producing useless fruit.
I grafted them over to pluots and fruiting plums year. It will be a win for both sides of the fence!

Before and after photos.


#36

Creative neighboring!


#37

Here’s a thing (flap-type, halfway down the page) that I am going to try today…not just on persimmons. Any thoughts?

http://www.waldeneffect.org/blog/Grafting_persimmons/


#38

Well, I finally got my 3 apples potted up today. These were the scions and rootstocks I got at the grafting class last month. I’m happy to report that I have some new shoots on all three!

Here are some pics. You might be able to read the labels. If not they are Snapp Stayman, Goldrush and Suncrisp all on M7. Pardon the mess behind these, I had to do the work in the shed as it was very windy today. The Goldrush just started to sprout this week after a month. I don’t know if it was a bad graft, or GR is really a slow starter? I used Tree and Shrub mix for the soil.

Questions- is it OK to set these outside now, or just keep them in the shed? If outside, is it fine in direct sun, or partial shade? We’re expecting a few freezes this week, so should I bring them in the house those nights?

Thanks.


#39

I give mine morning sun then shade. NORTH side of shed. I leave them that way till fall. Then plant the pots or the trees in fall.

I try not to let them freeze but have never had an issue with a bit of frost in the morning.


#40

GoldRush is slow to leaf out here. In fact I was able to snip some off this morning to graft as one can never seem to have too many GoldRush trees.