Flavor King on Myro 29c
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Progress on some grafts.
Nanaimo peach on Prunus americana rootstock, and Queen Cox apple on G-41 rootstock.
Toka on Marianna 2624 rootstock
Nadia cherry-plum on K-1 rootstock
Two Opal plums on K-1 rootstock
Hollywood plum on Marianna 2624 rootstock
Hollywood plum/Nadia cherry-plum/Superior hybrid plum 3-in-1 on K-1 rootstock
La Crescent hybrid plum on Mustang rootstock w/ Black Ice plum interstem.
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I think it was you who taught me. My memory isnt that good, but Im pretty sure.
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It was funny to see the race between the right scion drying out from the top down vs the bud close to the cleft taking off. I wish I did a time lapse.
The left graft shoot is bigger caliper than the scion just two weeks after it started taking off. What a difference the host vigor makes.
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That looks very nicely done. 
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That black tape might make a difference. Black conduct heat better, maybe.
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Reliance grafted on concord. My concord has been a disappointment. Need some change
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I see slightly better success with citrus in my second attempt.
Cocktail on Oro Blanco - 6/6 (3 cleft, 1 W/T, 2 bud)
Xie Shan on Owari - 0/4 (2 cleft, 2 bud)
Observations so far (mostly confirming @ramv’s advice):
- Buddy tape seems to bring in more success. Too early to tell for sure
- For trees out in the sun, best to choose shoots in part shade to graft to. Ideally, branches just below the top. Aluminum foil helps with grafts in full sun, but as soon as it’s removed, the summer heat quickly dries up the scion
- Sometimes, you need to wait for a long time before the next flush of growth for the scion to push growth
That’s a wrap for my citrus grafting this season, before I spend my daughter’s college account on CCPP orders 
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Good to have company on the CCPP induced raiding of funds. 
Happy your cocktail took, I rotted mine up by wrapping it in parafilm, wet with fungicide before grafting. I do safety bud grafts when using expensive scions. They seem to always take, and catch up on the growth in a year.
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After covid (likely next season), I should come watch your bud grafting technique. I get a lot of failures on that while everyone says they get near 100% success. So, clearly I am doing something wrong. Jaya pointed out my use of splicing tape as opposed to rubber tape might be crushing the bud too much. I’ll change that and try next time.
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I think I’m just getting lucky as the two hosts I’m using are both on the vigorous side. I’ve killed so many things in so many different ways, it’s almost unsettling when friends or family seem to think I have a green thumb. (They just don’t know where the bodies are buried).
A correction on earlier, these were bark grafts not cleft. I took pictures of the calluses after unwrapping the electrical tape. As a side benefit, the electrical tape ends up peeling off the parafilm underneath.
Who knew calluses could warm your heart so…
Here’s a bud graft from last year that’s doing well. I would occasionally remove any host growth below branch and remove taller growth on surrounding branches around it to try and give the bud a bit of apical dominance.
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On the topic of unexpected surprises, I thought all my Feijoa grafts were gone as they were in full sun, unprotected. Saw one pushing growth today!
Albert’s Supreme on Mammoth
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Nice feijoa graft! How long did it take to start pushing?
I have a few that I did this year that took successfully but had nothing but failure with another variety. They are somewhat temperamental it appears.
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Got the scions from Stan on June 21 and grafted them immediately, so it started pushing after a little more than 3 weeks. As with citrus, the scion pushing coincides with the growth flush on the rest of the plant. I have a couple of Flavia scions on Nikita which may be failures.
I grafted mine too early it seems. Early March and into late March. My budwood was from CRFG. They sat around and started pushing vigorously only.a few weeks ago.
Did you hot callus pipe them, Ram?
Yes Dax, I hot callused nearly everything this year.
I’ve had a few grafts fail because the scions moved a little when wrapping the parafilm on them causing the cambiums to move. It is sometimes very hard to see that minute shifting–until it’s tool late.
Wrap the parafilm on the scion before you graft it.
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A grafting rubber band securely wrapped around the grafting point should also prevent the scion from shifting as well. I’ve found no difference in success with the rubber band tied before or after wrapping in parafilm though.
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