Your Apple scions will not be compatible with the Plum tree.If they work,it will be a miracle.
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Just for the record on my attempt to graft gerrardi mulberry on top of that (unknown shipment mixup white mulberry)… this is what my buds looked like when I cut that white mulberry off around 8 inches tall.
Edit add later…
This evening I grafted (WT) 2 NovaMac scions and 2 Early McIntosh scions to B9 rootstock.
I planted them temporarily at least in 2 gal bucket with a mix of garden soil and compost and watered them good.
So now what ???
What is recommended for newly grafted apple scion/rootstock once planted ? Or potted.
Keep in shady location or sun ?
Shade for a period of time then transition to part sun… then full sun ?
Thanks
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After grafting I place mine in a tub with potting soil (like 50 in a tub) and put that in the house garage that doesn’t freeze. After two weeks I start letting them spend the day in some partial sun. By week 4 I hope to be planting them out in the nursery bed (direct to their permanent location is good too).
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@AndySmith … we have no freezing weather in our 10 day now… mostly mid 60s and 70s. for highs… in the 80s tomorrow. I will keep them on the north side a few days… then move to our back porch… morning sun only there…then eventually to my sunny south side. If we do get some colder weather… I can bring them in over night.
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My Satsuma plum graft seems to be doing well at 3 1/2 weeks.
I also did some pretty ugly grafts of 20th Century pear yesterday. Hopefully they take; the sticks were starting to wake up in the fridge. This also happened to me the last time I did Asian pears. Anyone else have that trouble?
Now I’m waiting for warmer weather to do the bulk of my grafting: peaches, persimmon, pawpaw.
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Most of the avocado grafts I did in January and February are starting to push now. Mostly vegetative buds, but here’s one of the scions that @jsteph00921 sent me from an unknown cultivar growing near Santa Rosa (possibly Mexicola or a seedling tree), pushing a flower cluster instead:
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Looked very close at my mulberry x4 bark graft today and see no signs of excessive sap flow issues.
There is no sap flowing, dripping, oozing, seeping… or showing up in any way.
I know that that has been reported by many as a potential problem with mulberry grafts…
For those of you who have experienced that problem… exactly what did you see that let you know the problem was happening. Just want to know exactly what to watch out for.
Thanks
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Just pruned the year-old Duke grafts on my multi-graft avocado trees in the greenhouse, was able to get a few serviceable scions and lots of rootable cuttings, and Duke is still the largest, bushiest looking cultivar on each tree that it’s on.
Scions ready to be wrapped with buddy tape and stored for when my latest seedings are ready to be grafted in a few weeks (the one with the leaf will be grafted this weekend, though):
And I know this is a grafting thread, but here’s how I prepare avocado cuttings for rooting:
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In my case, I had pretty bad failures the latter I graft after the tree wakes up. I never saw sap oozing outside the grafting tape but the grafts usually budded out and grew well and suddenly dried up. When I opened up the grafts, I saw white sap around the graft union. Tagging @k8tpayaso as she noted more such experiences.
Did my first bark grafts this year, grafting over about 50 very old Bartlett trees. Wow it has been simple. Don’t know why I didn’t do it ages ago, almost all of them are pushing out, pulled a couple extras to look at them and they were starting to callus. Did 6 trees cleft and whip and tongue last year and they all put on about 30 feet of total growth each, so I’m excited to get more done.
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I have seen it both ways. Sometimes the sap is visible. Sometimes it was just dry white residue in the graft union after it failed.
I had some scion from a seedling last year that appeared to be a white mulberry seedling. I grafted four grafts onto a White Russian rootstock. All 4 grafts took and grew well with no problems noted with sap issues although I did make cuts below the grafts. I just wonder if it was white mulb to white mulb graft that deceased the graft union seal issues.
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@californicus and @k8tpayaso - thanks for the details…
A few weeks back I was scouring YT watching different folks grafting mulberries and I found a couple of guys doing things a little different and they were doing that because of the sap flow issues.
Let me run this by you and see what you think…
Guy # 1… wrapped his mulberry graft union in a rather large stout fishing line (first) to secure it… then he added a layer or something like grafting tape and pulled it tight around the graft union.
He let that grafting tape stay on for about a week or week and half, just long enough for the graft union to heal some, then he took that grafting tape off and left only the fishing line in place.
The fishing line would not hold any sap flow, it could just easily leak out and drip off if it was happening.
Guy #2 - after he put his mulberry graft together he used a series of zip ties spaced out a bit, to secure the graft union. In the case of a W/T graft he might put 5 or 6 zip ties on, spaced 1/8 inch apart… and it sure looked like it held it nicely in place. Then he wrapped that in grafting tape or parafilm… but for only about a week, or two, then he removed the tape from the graft union, and only the zip ties remained to hold it together until those could be removed.
Something like that might work better on a WT graft, or Cleft graft on smaller wood… rather than what i was doing with my large mulberry stump, with bark grafts x 4.
Wondering… should I try waiting about a week to 10 days… and then remove my Tarp Strap, and my wraps of parafilm from around my bark grafts (gently, carefully) and just go back with some large Zip Ties to hold it firmly together for a few more weeks ?
You are right that even though I do not see any sap build up issues… that is probably because it is being contained by my wraps of parafilm where the scions enter the stump bark grafts.
If that is happening and building up in there… and it goes on for several weeks, could spell failure.
The Guy on YT that used the fishing line… talked like had had had good luck with that method
Pretty sure he said he only left his graft tape on for about a week, then removed it… only the fishing line remained to hold it in place… any sap that remained or continued to flow was not a problem after that.
There are several guys grafting mulberry on YT using just the Zip ties to hold the graft together.
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My strategy is simple - just do the regular graft but during the dormant season. I do slash the rootstock to let out the sap during the grafting and once after. Quite high success rate with that. I can see why unwrapping a bit early helps and I should try that.
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I just bought a contender peach from Lowes for about 25 bucks, I was planning to use it to practice grafting. Would I be able to try some grafts this year? Or do I need to wait until the tree gets established next year.
Getting excited to try and learn grafting!
That’s a novel approach to me Trev. Thanks for sharing, I wouldn’t have thought to check YouTube specifically for mullberries. Clearly there is a reason they do this. @Barkslip have you seen anyone doing this for walnuts? I know they are a sappy tree to graft as well.
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I took a page out of @clarkinks book and dug up some escaped callery pears today to use as rootstocks. I grafted 20th Century Asian pear on them. I know it would be better to let them grow out a year, but I’m mostly trying to hedge my bets with these scions.
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107 grafts done…still have plenty rootstocks.
It’d be nice to be young again. (But keep the decades of experience.)
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Go ahead and give it a shot! Just don’t transplant it right after or you could mess them up before you know how they did.
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I got my own methods I guess. Drill the rootstock with a 1/8" bit or larger for larger trees a few days prior and let them bleed. Cut the top off too them.
Once the bleeding is under control, the rest is carpentry.
Dax
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Many ways to skin a cat!
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