Any takers for extra apples scions?
No, peach is in fact used by some nurseries as the rootstock for apricots. The problem is the opposite of incompatibility, it makes the apricot too vigorous. I have 2-3 apricots on peach that are fifteen years old and still going (too) strongly.
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We are in a similar climate, Iām not putting on foil until the temps skyrocket. Something like 85F+ is where I add it.
I did some tests of the scionwood temperatures in the last few days with an IR gun to see how much sun would heat up the graft locations. I found partly sunny would add 10F or so to the graft and full sun more like 20F. These numbers also vary widely. It does show why you need the foil, 110F at the graft is not going to make a happy graft union. At 60F air temps you are at most 80F or so at the union which is fine.
Indeed, itās nice to always be carrying a big roll of bandage 
It has come in handy many times for me.
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This is great information, thank you. One further question- for how many days/weeks from grafting is it vital to protect from overheating?
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You need to keep the graft from overheating when it is callousing, this is most important for two days and somewhat important for five days. After that it is less important. But it also helps keep the grafts from drying out so even after five days it can help.
I donāt always do the foil even when it really heats up, if you have the grafts well sealed etc they can often suffer through the heat. But for more temperature sensitive things like peaches it can be important. Iām going to graft my persimmons soon and they will be bumping against this heat spell so I will put foil on them since they can be heat-sensitive. But no other grafts will get it, I did them a week or more ago and they are already pushing. I donāt think I ever put foil on apples or pears, well maybe once in a blue moon on a really late graft in very hot weather.
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a last minute hurry up last stick apple graft i attached horribly late last year ā¦ is alive and apparently took fine.
i do not know what i was thinking with this.
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My personal experience about 50 years ago I grafted plumcot onto peach seedlings. Grew and fruited once. Then failed at the graft union. Researched books back then. Found information about delayed incompatibility of peach and apricot.
Does anyone know if thereās delay graft incompatibility with pluots on an apricot rootstock?
Grafting to an apricot? Or a rootstock commonly used for apricot?
I feel like most of the apricots are grown on plum, peach, or hybrid things. (Eg myrobalan, Krymsk 86) Iād think a plum would grow well on one of those hybrids.
Did you check the giant and intimidating rootstock compatibility thread to see if what youāre looking for is there?
I think itās something like pears on quince, it often works but some varieties are incompatible. I think its fewer incompatible varieties than pears on quince as I never ran into any failures. But it sounds like you found an incompatibility.
I donāt use peach stock for apricots any more because they are too vigorous. Itās too bad they donāt impart more of that vigor to peaches themselves, I could use a little more vigor in peaches to get them above the deer.
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Specifically Flavor Grenade pluot on an apricot seedling. Search on this forum for specific doesnāt turn up and a general search turns up too many threads..lol
Its this reference:
I donāt see any Asian plum on apricot data there but from other places Iāve seen that it sometimes works and sometimes not. So itās worse than apricot on peach for example. Note that pluots are genetically 98+% plum so I just view them as plums.
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I am no expert in sun strength from one state to the next, although I do know that here in North Carolina the sun is way more dangerous at lets say 85 degrees than it is at 85 degrees in Vermont. Since I have been both places itās been very obvious that here itās much easier to get a sun burn at the same temperature. And here, as well as Vermont there is no bodies of salt water near by. When near a body of salt water the sun is even more dangerous at the same temperature, that is why while visiting Mediterranean countries in the summer, itās a necessity to use sunblock, or to wear winter or autumn clothes to stay fully covered up. Iād be surprised if how dangerous the sun is did not effect grafts at least some.
Right, the sun is higher in the sky the more south you are so itās stronger. That will affect how much a sunny day warms the grafts, a sunny Vermont 85F will not warm the grafts up as much as a North Carolina 85F. Iām not sure how much difference it will make but the grafts could be 5F warmer further south at the same air temps.
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Heres Enterprise (left) and Dolgo (right) on EMLA.111
I just have the 111 rootstocks in damp sawdust with slits in the bag. Getting indirect sunlight from my bedroom window. They are growing new roots and healing fast despite handling the bag everyday lol. Others rootstocks i grafted this year ive planted outside already and the weather is naturally slowing them down. From now on i think ill just graft and allow them to heal inside in wet sawdust until late april so they wont have to do the initial healing with weather fluctuating.
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Last year I got bare root Shiro plum tree. Took scion as a backup. I have a graft on wild plum that grew 6 feet and has one bloom. Original tree did not survive and no replacement guarantee. Bare root are being severely root pruned. I think this affects survival. A Colette pear from Starks did not survive but was replaced.
Thatās neat that they were tight enough and indoors to not need more wrappings and you can watch them heal!
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