I have a 3" riser with a manual crank valve. I’d like to automate this with an off grid option as the field doesn’t have access to electricity. I’d like to have the option to water at different intervals. Could you help me find the right parts?
The riser currently has a manual 3" valve like this (see attached). What kind of connection would you suggest? The current valve head has a small hose bib on the side, which is convenient, but I’m open to whatever you suggest.
I believe there’s a local pump house that increases the pressure, but the irrigation comes from a reservoir in the mountains. I’m not sure but I believe the pressure out of the riser is 60-80psi. We have it going through a filter and pressure reducer before going into a large drip system (supplied by drip depot). The pressure reducer is for 15 psi (see attached).
Let me know if you need any more information. Thanks so much for your help.
Best,
Joe
The 3” valve is what is referred to as a valve opening elbow. I’m not sure how you get water out of the spigot without the large hole being plugged, unless the spigot is on the pressure side of the valve, which usally isn’t the case.
They make plugs that goes into the large opening that you can reduce down to the size you need. They will have a hook, to hold the plug in and the rubber gaskets seals it with pressure. These are common fittings when using aluminum pipe.
You could get a DC latching selenoid valve and then power it with a small 12V irrigation timer. We always used them wherever we didn’t have 120V service. You need DC latching selenoids with a DC control box or a simple timer. They might be 24V but we powered ours with just a couple of dry cell batteries. Most selenoid valves work off of 24V AC. The DC latching selnoid is what you need.
You would only need a 3/4” -1” selenoid valve for a small drip zone depending on your GPM. If your spigot is live, you could plumb it there. You should be able to find them at the irrigation supply houses. If you have an old valve you can just switch out the selenoid.
A 1” valve and selenoid would be around $50.
Good luck.
Thank you so much for the knowledge. The spigot is only on when the valve opening elbow is on; you were right. My setup is for .75 acres so its decently large. It goes from the 3” into a pressure reducer, to a filter, to 3” layflat tubing, so I don’t need to reduce. So if I got something like this:
https://www.dripdepot.com/3652-3-inch-dc-valve-w-flow-control
And then left the elbow valve on, would I create any issues with the elbow valve?
Thanks!
Joe
That’s basically what you need. I prefer valves with female ends. That’s just my preference.
I would reduce the size of the valve as that 3” will almost pass 400 gpm (not gph). If you know your water consumption try to size it down to match what your zone a bit better as to what you are using. I doubt that you are using that much water (300-400 gpm) on .75 acres. But I guess you could be. My 1/3 acre orchard uses 3 gpm.
The valve will work better if the flow is matched. I used 3” valves for 5+ acres and close to 300-400 GPM on shade trees. I would think a 2” valve will handle a lot of water maybe even 1.5” . It will save you some money too. I think I used to put 2” valves in where I needed 150 gpm and 3” for 200-350 gpm.
They have a working ranges and if you are at extremes, the valve may not function properly as it opens and closes based on a pressure differential. The valve typically will take a long time to close if it’s oversized.
You can reduce it down at the valve, and then take back up to your lay flat 3” with fittings. We would often use a 2” valve with 4” pipe when friction loss was a concern with pipe size in long runs.
Shouldn’t be an issue to leave the valve opener open all the time. It may not seal as well as you like, but the gasket will seal it while under pressure. If it’s leaky or sprays water, you may have to change the gasket.
I’d personally close it when not using it for long periods. If you have a break, you’ll have a big hole to fill.
Thank you so much. I couldn’t figure this out even after several trips to the irrigation store.
Since I’m dealing mostly with seedlings I figure the elbow will be open from may to September. Do you think I’ll break it?
Thanks!