a friend of mine is renting a apartment from this lady. in the back lawn theres this tree that peaked my intrest. it hasnt ever been pruned and had water sprouts and some misplaced branches but beside that it had perfect scaffolds. i asked the lady and she said it was from a peach pit her late husband planted in the lawn just for the heck of it and it took. its a 4in dia. tree about 8ft tall. it bothered me that it wasnt pruned so one day last april i took a buck saw and pruned it. today i went over and to my suprise and his it has about 50 blooms on it. some are forming fruits. this trees in a fairly shaded area and gets very little direct sunlight and has been totally neglected. one side of the tree has no bark on it as she ran it over with the atv about 6 years ago. weve been having some frosts but this peaches blooms are all viable. maybe the large trees shading it also protected it from the frosts. im going to go spray it with some fungicide to help it out. whats the chances a store bought peach would even survive to fruit up here. next to none.
I’ve always read that grabbing pome & stone fruits off the shelf and planting their seeds would likely yield something more like the root stock of the tree from which they came - if you were lucky! Best case, you might actually get some sort of a hybrid, between the root stock and whatever an insect just so happened to pollinate it with, that was actually worth keeping. Regardless, it’s not impossible to have something grow. Now, you might not get any fruit to grow to harvest…or you might get lucky.
I had a couple of nectarines where the root stock took over and killed off whatever was grafted to it. The tree grew like mad and it even set fruit once, albeit only two nectarines on one of the trees. The fruit never matured but the trees kept growing like crazy for a couple years - until I ripped them out and replaced them. Point is: Some of these trees will grow from seed and some won’t. Some will produce fruit and some won’t. Not every fruit we know of was grafted, grown in a controlled environment and hand selected to be the winner of whatever new cultivar they were trying to invent. Sometimes, you need to work to get some of these varieties but, sometimes, nature does what nature has always done and you get something new or at least something that can still grow from seed. You could have the next Golden Delicious of peaches - where they can only speculate about what the parents are or, you could just have a cute little tree with nice scaffolding. Time will tell…
If you’re really ambitious, you could try taking any fruit you might get and ask some old timers in the area if they can I.D. it. Or, send the same samples to your local university’s AG extension. Or, if you never get any fruit from it, you could always try grafting something else onto it. After all, it seems like you have some nice root stock that seems to promote nice growth - so long as it’s healthy and you have permission to do so.
In any case, it’s certainly not impossible to grow peaches in that zone. And, it’s certainly not impossible to get fruit from seed these days. Like I said, you might not get anything worth keeping but, if you have nothing better to do for a couple summers, it might be worth watching it to see what happens.
i was thinking the same thing. the land lady gave me permission to do as i please with it so if the fruit doesnt set im going to try grafting some hardy peaches to it. she was even considering cutting it down as it was in the way of mowing back there but now shes interested in trying to get some fruit as well. going to go spray it with immunox this afternoon. she even named it after her late husband. now its called Pat’s peach.
Have you ever used Immunox before? If so, how is it? I typically hit my orchard with Agri-Fos (or Reliant) (a systemic spray) every 10-12 weeks and then use some other foliar spray from Bonide every 10 days or so (or after every inch of rain). In my mind, the Agri-Fos, applied via a basal-bark application, can kind of cover for me if weather gets in the way and I can’t get my foliar sprays applied on schedule. Moreover, I’m coming at some of these diseases from two different angles and keeping them guessing. You don’t want these aliments to develop a resistance to some of these chemicals. That’s also why I rotate out a couple different foliar sprays from Bonide.
it works good. i rotate between it and daconil.
You may be aware of this, but Agri-Fos is not intended to treat any fruit fungal issues for stone or pome fruits. It’s intended to treat soil borne fungal issues mostly. It has some preventative activity against cytospora canker in field trials, when painted on pruning wounds, but doesn’t seem to have as good efficacy as Topsin M, which is supposed to have some curative activity against cytospora. I’ve not tried Topsin M on cytospora cankers, but I may in the future.
I doubt you are hurting anything with a basal bark application of Agri-phos. And it’s certainly cheap enough. But I doubt it offers your fruit any anti-fungal protection. On a positive note, it does contain phosphorous, which is of course an essential nutrient for stone and pome fruits.
All I “know” is what’s on the label. If there’s a better mousetrap, I’m game. I’m always looking for recommendations on how to do it better than before.
According to said label, it can help apples with the following ailments when applied as a basal-bark spray:
- Apple black spot and scab
- Root and collar rot
- Fire Blight
According to said label, it can help peaches with the following ailments when applied as a basal-bark spray:
- Root and collar rot
- Armillaria root rot
My mistake. I didn’t realize it was labeled for apple scab and black spot.