N-pHuric is not Urea Sulfate. Although N-pHuric is in the CAS Urea Sulfate category, the similarity ends there. They have different stoichiometry and different states of matter at room temperature.
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@Richard
Really, what is your evidence?
Would be nice for you to publicly admit when you are wrong on topic.
Would also be nice to hear “Thank You”, when someone gives you valuable information, which you didn’t know, about products you are using.
This is mine:
(Cas:21351-39-3)
Urea Sulfate, aka Monocarbamide dihydrogensulfate, aka MonoUreaSulfuric, aka Uronium hydrogen sulphate
Looking very good so far.
Let’s hope for continued success!
Urea Sulfate is an awesome choice for your environment.
I suggest in keeping all nutrients balenced & at about 15% above deficiency.
6.3 pH sounds optimal to me too.
You shouldn’t have any Sulfhydryl toxicity or Ammonium burn using this form of Sulfur.
If you get any Xanthomonas or other gram-negative bacterial infection on leaf perimeters it is due to Molybdenum deficiency.
N-pHuric or Urea Sulfate is going to increase the need or Molybdenum.
Hoping for your success.
Feel free to ask for assistance if you have any issues.
PS:
Lower pH might reduce the water solubility of Vista California’s 10ppm Molybdenum.
Optimal (Rhizobium bacteria & Mycorrhizae) Molybdenum storage is approximately 100ppm, required for optimal microbe health, function & division, as every time they divide resources are reduced by 50%.
Sulfate increase that division, plus FeMo-Cofactor enzyme production contains Molybdenum.
Increased FeMo-Cofactor means more Ammonium, which increases pH & helps keep Molybdenum water soluble.
If Manganese is too high in the soil, symbiotic microbes which create an external biofilm over the top of Nitrogen fixating bacteria will turn their Ammonium into Nitric acid reducing pH & precipitating Molybdenum.
So best to know (Iron, Manganese & Molybdenum) levels of soil or potting mix, plus monitor soil pH even though feeding perfectly balanced 6.3pH solutions.
Molybdenum is also needed in the leaves to (store & retrieve) Nitrogen in leaf perimeters.
The will be an increased demand in the leaf for Molybdenum, for Nitrogen (storage & retrieval) functions.
If pH gets too low, Urea might build up in leaf perimeters increasing susceptibility to Fungi & gram-negative bacteria.
While I have not used N-pHuric brand name of Urea Sulfate, nor the company’s blends, I have used Urea Sulfate before as a bulk dry 33% nitrogen product.
I’m very familiar with both advantages & disadvantages in multiple environments.
Feel free to ask questions if you run into problems.
I’m very certain that you won’t have issues in Vista,
however, realize that the product can cause problems in environments with too much Nickel or Copper.
And if soil is too saturated with Calcium Carbonate, osmotic pressure will go too high before soil pH is neutralized.
Best wishes for success!!!
I’m honestly here for assistance if you desire.
@Richard
I read your modified thread post.
Modified mine as well.
Will research your product further.
Please read me modified response.
If you run into problems, feel free to PM contact me or thread tag me either one.
@ZinHead
In the prior century I earned undergraduate and graduate degrees in math and physics and completed several minors, including chemistry and geology. In the period 2003 to 2016 I owned a licensed horticultural consulting business and among other things sold Grow More products nationwide. I also designed a few fertilizer products for them, the most successful being Fruit Fuel 16-8-24. There are others here on GrowingFruit with similar if not more advanced credentials. Please stop pestering me with matters you feel need correction and offers of assistance.
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Over the past three weeks the saplings have sent new branches under and around the shade cloth into the direct sun. So today I removed the cloth and we’ll see how well they fare.
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The potted Pawpaws have been exposed to full sun for week now. So far just 2 of the 12 are showing brown spots and the remainder are thriving.
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I grafted a Pawpaw cutting this spring onto a small sucker I dug up. It’s doing fine without shading.
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The sun in New York is probably not as intense as Southern California.
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Also my section of NY has many cloudy days. We had a long stretch of cool cloudy and rainy weather is late spring when vigorous growth was happening. When weather changed to sunny some plants had some leaf damage but I didn’t notice any on the Pawpaw.
I can understand soil type being a problem but how would heat and humidity be a problem? Ive lived in Florida my whole life and consider the heat and humidity to be much more intense in north central Florida, Georgia ,Alabama and South Carolina! South Florida has more mild winters but also more breezes off the ocean! For example it might be 96f 89% humidity in north inland Florida but on the same day Miami or Naples is usually 5 to 10 degrees cooler with 10% less humidity . This only applies to summer months. I thought chill hours would be a problem but you proved that wrong! It may be the very high lime content south Florida or tge hurricanes actually destroyed them!
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I am interested in your products Mr. Frost. Any currently available for shipping out of California?
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All of our potted fruit trees comprise a repository for study. When I’ve finished with a particular group I’ll try selling them on Etsy and if that fails I’ll give them away locally. An exception will be the figs which will be sold on a dedicated site, in part to recoup costs of the genetic testing underway.
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