All things tractors thread


The bolt socket I used is heavy, weighs about 2lb. The theory behind it is simple physics, more weight combined with the air gun means more torque (f = m x a) on the bolt. It took a couple tries with my 150lb donut compressor. Thing is, you only use it once, but it was worth it. I’ve heard all kinds of horror stories about getting that bolt off with a regular socket and breaker bars, heating the bolt, etc. I didn’t use it to reattach the new bolt, I had to use a three foot extension and three foot breaker bar for that task. Forty pounds of torque, then another 60 degree turn, that was tough. Got it to about 45 degrees, and it wouldn’t budge anymore. Still on there, hasn’t moved yet.

Here’s a pic of the socket, if you’re interested.

I have an owner’s manual, it shows how to change the tranny fluid and filter. But, yah, I should get a service manual.


Sounds like a bugger to get off. Also sounds like you got the right tools.

I learned a long time ago, having the right tools makes all the difference. I’ve struggled with things that took 3 or 4 hours trying to use the wrong tool, when it should have only taken a few minutes.

Because you mentioned it, I was interested and read of some of the problems people were having with the Honda bolt. I read the bolt is torqued to 185 lbs. It can take considerably more than that to remove, if it’s been on there a while. Part of the problem I read about is people using small 1/2 drive tools to remove that bolt. Something like that takes at least 3/4" drive tools. I’ve taken some tough bolts off like that off a motor grader. As I recall some of those were torqued to 4 or 500 lbs. A 7’ cheater with heavy tools that won’t flex will generally remove that stuff.

Of course an impact is easier on things because of the hammering action, as long as it’s a heavy enough impact. Impact guns are generally way over-rated, btw. In other words, a 1000 lb. 1/2" impact wrench generally won’t deliver anywhere near that amount of torque.


Well, I heard or read about folks using long cheater/breaker bars, and still not being able to get the bolts off. Some would use a torch to heat the bolt, use penetrating oil, etc and still no worky.

I’m not a strong guy, and bouncing up and down on a long extension and breaker bar didn’t seem too safe to me, so I sought an alternative.

I got the Lisle socket from eBay, it was a knock off, for about $20. I had borrow one of my neighbor’s air gun, I don’t have one yet. Brought it home, put a heavy duty adapter on the socket and popped it in the gun. My compressor is a 6 gallon pancake type, not real hefty, so I was worried it wouldn’t work.

I turned it on, and cranked it up to about 120lb, and hooked up the gun to the line. Hit the bolt a couple times, no dice. I checked the gauge, it had dropped a bit, so I waited it to charge back up and tried again. Nothing. So, this time I cranked it up to the max about 150lb and waited a bit. Hit the bolt and within a few seconds, Whirrrr! Off it came! What a relief. After that, a lot of work, but not too bad, just had to be careful. Saved myself a lot of money.

Now, I need to get my own air gun. Any recommendations? I don’t know what you mean by a motor grader.


I used it to build terraces.

Air impacts are more powerful than electric. The problem with air impacts is that you have to have big lines and big capacity to deliver the amount of air needed to get the max torque out of the gun. If you don’t have big air equipment it’s wasting money to go with air. I’ve owned a couple of impact wrenches and neither one would deliver the amount of torque rated. Air impacts are good if you have a big shop compressor, but most people don’t.

Electric impacts have been improving and continue to get stronger. Generally (as with all tools) price = better quality. If I were buying an electric impact to get stubborn bolts/nuts off, I’d probably go with something like a good 3/4" electric impact.

If I was planning to use the tool for speed, I’d probably go with one of the new cordless 1/2" drive impacts. Again bigger price generally = better tool.

I rarely use any tools less than 1/2" drive. I have some 3/8" drive tools to fit in tight places. I really don’t know why they make 1/4" drive tools. I see 1/4" drive socket sets for sale occasionally and have to wonder who buys them? Bob the Builder? What are they going to do with them, disassemble a plastic engine?


I would call that yellow ‘Champion’ a maintainer.


:+1: It’s been a long while since I’ve heard that. Around here most people from town call them a road grader. In the rural countryside, they call them a motor grader. When I was younger I would occasionally hear older folks call them a maintainer. Folks in the excavation trade simply call them a blade.


Up here in the frozen tundra of Iowa, townies called them graders and us bumkins called them maintainers. Surprising what differences there are in our common language.


Considering this tractor, is it too much for an orchard and 40 acres? Price seems reasonable… 10 years old but only 400 hours. I like the idea of being able to do some work on a machine myself if necessary, not sure if this is old enough to do that really or not. Asking 27k, guy said new it was 46k…

John Deere 4720 MFWD WIthJD 400X Loader

2010 4720 MFWD. 3 Speed E/Hydro, 58 H.P., 415 HOURS, Engine Block Heater, Cruise Control. Air Seat.

10-16.5 6PR Front R4 Industrial. 2 Position,.17.5L-24 6PR Rear R4 Industrial. 2 Position.

Dual Mid & 3 Rear HYd. Valves, 540 Rear PTO, Mid 2100 PTO.

3 Point Hitch With Telescoping Link Arms, 3 point Draw Bar, Grill Guard, Foldable Rops.

JD 400X Qt. Loader With 73 inch QT Bucket, Bucket Level Indicator


It sure looks new and shiny!


Looks like a very nice buy if you go by these prices

Jump on it!


1/4" sockets probably aren’t for splitting your tractor :slight_smile:
They are good for removing screws that have both hex and phillips head, like the airbox on some cars. Also good for places that are tight fit.

Mostly I find I use the 1/4 drive when I need to get something on the nut and the bolt and I’m already using the 3/8" socket for one end. Like for a battery terminal or something.

I’ve never used 3/4" drive or larger. I mostly use 3/8" on my car unless its with the cordless Milwaukie fuel impact driver.

Now if you are just talking about impact sockets, then yeah, I don’t get the point of the 1/4".


3/4 inch is about the only thing you can use with an air compressor and an impact wrench is all I use. You can use something smaller with a breaker bar. If you are though the part was probably coming loose already. The torque on tractor parts, especially body parts, is really enormous and it will take big powerful tools or a real ton of weight and pressure from a person and a breaker bar.

I have the 3/8 and 1/2 inch and they usually work fine on basic nuts and bolts or smaller implements. I’m seriously not down playing their usability. But 3/4 and an impact wrench is the only thing that’ll get many main tractor parts loose. In my experience


im just not sure if it’s too big for orchard work, I’m planting berries in rows 10ft apart… want something big enough but not 2 big. never had a tractor before.


I have pines that are 8 feet apart and can mow with a 75 horse tractor.
Their is just so much more you can do with a bigger tractor and more horsepower. I’m not in an orchard but I traded up from a 55 horse and am very happy I did. The 58 is actually pretty powerful and can do what most people need. I had a 35 horse Kubota I worked very hard for 3 years but just got to where I was into the bigger work and traded up twice.

My neighbor says if you aren’t breaking it you aren’t working hard enough! 10 foot apart is actually fairly wide in the big picture. I’m thinking as long as you have the trees trimmed upward so you don’t knock yourself off of the tractor! Lol… JMO…


I would definitely say that your tractor isn’t too big for 40 acres. Nor is it too big for 10’ rows. It has a category I three point, which is the smallest. That means you won’t be able to hook up to category II implements, which probably limits you to a smaller rotary mower.

It looks like there is room to narrow the wheels if you think it’s too wide to fit down your 10’ rows. Sometimes the front end loader can limit you on how narrow you can go. If you do narrow the wheels, make sure you re-set your steering stops correctly on the front wheels.


I’d go with what the others have to say regarding the size for your use. But I would do some checking on the engine/emissions control. I have heard that the newer JD’s have a “sealed” electronic control system which is hard for owners to diagnose or fix problems on. You need to have the dealer do it. I am not aware of the details of these systems and when they were put in place, but if you were planning on doing any work on your tractor you need to check this out and make sure this model doesn’t have them.


Kubota bX25d owner here. Love it and it is great for all types of acrage as long as you don’t have hills.


Update on my JD 2040. Tried to start it up a few days ago, but it didn’t want to turn over. The batteries were down to 11.8 volts, so they needed to be charged. But, one of the post terminals were busted so, I had to fix that today. Got everything back together and hooked up, and it started right up, so glad I didn’t have to get new batteries.

Now I gotta get out there and do some bush hogging and hopefully some plowing before the rains get here later tomorrow.


Got my bush hogging done, and my wife helped me hook up the plow. It’s too late for that, so might try tomorrow, although it’s supposed to be rainy.


I have a tractor question. I’ve noticed that my rear tires seem to be a bit low, on air (or fluid since they are filled with some kind of liquid). Can I inflate it with air like a regular tire? If there is liquid in them, I assume that I would have to move the tractor enough so that the valve stem is at a 12 o’clock position? The max recommended pressure for the tire is 36psi, I believe, but I’ve read that it’d be better to not fully inflate them. Also, it looks like one of my valve stems is corroded a bit, I assume from the liquid, perhaps it’s leaking through that? If it’s really corroded, is there a way to remove and replace it? Any comments? Thanks. These are just regular standard use tractor tires. Don’t think they are radials.