Beginner Grafting Guide

Hummm…
And now for something completely different…,
I often take a different approach.,
Usually ,it’s , grow here .
The graft…
or Else …x XXX . ,?
Removing all other opportunities to grow usually gets their attention !
And the grafts thrive .
By early to mid summer ( late June here in WV. )
,if nothing is happening with the graft . I may Let a shoot grow to keep rootstock alive .
Mostly ,I religiously …? ., ( on my hands and knees ! )
Remove sprouts

Oh , !,
Your grafts look great . !
Good job …
The fun begins …

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An update, one month later:

Here are my pear-to-callery grafts, that I grafted around easter weekend. They were my first ever grafts, and I feel SO PROUD, like my babies are all grown up and going off to college. I know it’s small potatoes for some people who graft dozens of trees every year, but it feels very exciting to me! Grafted with harrow sweet, harrow delight, and potomac pears.

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Good job !
That looks really good

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Thanks so much!

Now, for the follow up questions: Should I just let them grow this year, or should I start to thin them or trim them down at all? There are a few scions per trunk-stub, when should I cull out the spares? Or should I leave them all in? And, when can I take off the tapes? They are all bark grafts.

For reference, this is what it looked like before it started growing leaves. I wasn’t sure if I should leave all the scions, so that they cover up the old flat stump-ends, or if I should only leave one per trunk-stump.

Before pic:
image

Haha, I feel like an over-eager-kid.

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I mostly do bench grafting , one scion per rootstock.
So someone else may have better advice.
I would think to let them all grow this year,favoring the most vigorous at late winter / spring pruning.
Going to require some training then to make sense of it all.
Keep removing all sprouts that come from rootstock.
May want to slit the electrical tape with a razor where it wraps around the individual scions so it won’t girdle them
@clarkinks or others will have some comments .

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Thanks again! I’ll be visiting my parents’ house (where the tree is) on Sunday, so I’ll check the scions for girdling then.

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Leave for now. What you want is one to take over and cut the other ones off. But keep the 3 per stump for now. Sometimes on large stumps like you have with one scion the other side of the stump dies. So keep the extra two scions going until one covers at least half the stump.

Another thing, the scions will grow crazy fast. When they get a couple feet tall, cut them by half. It is a good idea to stake the branch with a piece of bamboo to stablize the new branch to the trunk as wind can knock off the grafts when they are young. Wind - mrtexascitrus

Congrats for the grafts. Pear is the easiest of all to graft.

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Will do, thanks!

Since this is a beginner grafting guide, please allow me to show you a couple heart-breaking examples of what can happen if you fail to properly brace your grafts.

These photos are of two apricot grafts I was very, very proud of and excited about. In both cases, these had originally been well known varieties that I bought as bare root trees. So they originally came with good fruiting tops already grafted onto rootstock. However, a couple years ago BOTH of the trees died, but they had been in the ground 2-3 years and so the rootstock had already sent up some suckers. I took 2 whole years to let these suckers grow into approx 1 inch caliper trees that I then cut off and bark grafted known apricots to. I was excited to get 2 takes this spring. I spent the whole summer watching them, and they grew so incredibly fast that I ever pruned them 3 times over the summer- partly to start shaping them as hollow-centered, well spread trees, and partly just to make sure they didn’t get too top heavy or wind-resistant that could cause them to break.

As you will see in the photos, they had formed VERY thick connections- especially one of them had over 1/2 inch caliper on the graft to the 1 inch tree/stock, so it seemed like a VERY solid tree. The other one seemed strong as well, though it wasn’t as large. I had them braced almost all summer. I had simply attached a wooden dowel that was about 3 foot long, with about 18 inches of it attached alongside the rootstock tree, then it ran up, past the graft connection, and about 18 inches up the scion. I had used tape to attach the brace and it had done it job well.

Just over the last couple weeks the tape holding my brace was started to girdle both the rootstock and the scion since both had grown so much. So, seeing how large and solid both the grafts were and knowing they had both been callousing for more than 3 months, I took them off (like a fool).

Last night I woke up in the middle of the night to an awful storm with high winds. I literally laid there in my bed thinking “oh no, why didn’t I rebrace those grafts…I bet they are doomed…I’ll be so upset.”

I go out at daylight and sure enough, total destruction of all my work! Please folks…brace your grafts and leave them braced all season if not 2 seaons!!! You don’t want to feel like I do or see this…

Wide view of both grafts showing how nice the bottom rootstocks were and how large the tops were (even though I’d pruned them back 3 times!)
image

This is both heartbreaking and a little educational. Here you can see that the new bark graft had grown as large as the original tree rootstock (that is the DARK area on right). The bright colored wood left on the rootstock as well as the bright colored graft wood on left show how much this thing had grown since i grafted it as a tiny twig that I shaved and slid under the slipping bark of the rootstock.

Here I’m holding up the broken scion to show how large it had become. But again, I had trimmed it back HARD 3 times already. If I had just braced it extremely well with an independant, tall stake and let it grow all summer, it would seriously have been 6-7 feet tall! Instead, its just broken like my heart! ha
image

Hope someone learns from this. I knew better but got lazy. Don’t do that!

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You could try chip budding that stock with the broken scion I think…

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Great suggestion Ryan, one I had actually considered. But I’ve never chip budded and wasn’t even certain I could do it to a tree this big with bark this developed. But there are also some new suckers near the base so maybe I’ll try to chip bud them…or try both for that matter. If course I’ll still wasted 3.5 months- basically a whole growing year here…GRRRR. but thanks.

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I hadn’t grafted before last year and here I am making a guide! We all have to learn to get better. I did one unsuccessful chip bud this year but plan to try more soon. I have faith that you can do it.

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Sorry I never replied. I never saw this message. I have only been grafting a few years so I’m the wrong person to ask but chip budding has worked pretty good for me. At least to get it growing, I have no idea long term.

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Thanks for starting this thread, I need to read this whole thread before I attempt any grafting.

Please reach out, either on this thread or pm if you have any questions! Happy to help.

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Thank You @disc4tw

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I haven’t read the whole thread, but I’m bring it back up to ask a question.
I need to transport a few cuttings to my brother’s house, do I put the cuttings in water? It’s only 20 miles from my house.

Typically you want to keep cuttings in a cooler and cool (not necessarily frozen) for transport if possible. This goes for scions as well. Obviously being in the mail they aren’t kept cool but winter is more forgiving.

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Treating them like cut flowers will do great. Or you can seal them in plastic bag.

1/2 hour isn’t a big deal for most temperate fruit in good condition.

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Most important thing I’ve found: WRAP THE WHOLE GRAFT WITH PARAFILM!
Bags, sun shades everything else is negotiable in my opinion.

I use electrical tape or vinyl budding tape to tightly wrap the graft unions, I use laboratory Parafilm ad a moisture seal only.

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