Hello - I’m new here, and new to fruit growing. Can you advise if the methods shown in this video are good? I’ve seen other posts here about bending branches below/near horizontal, and so the methods shown here are similar, but with a few different aspects such as the use of wires to hold the branches down (not sure if that creates potential to damage bark), and chopping the small growth with his hand on the bottom of branches. Thanks very much!!
I think most people use heavy string to hold branches down and I do also in many cases. Wire has also worked well for me but it is less forgiving. Overall string is probably the best choice. Bending limbs down has got my trees producing fruit and I feel like it is the way to go for heavy fruit production.
The advantage of natural sisal is that it breaks down after a season so usually only partially girdles a branch wrapped tight. If you use polly, make sure it stays lose.
Thanks Alan - I don’t mind obtaining something other than poly, I just happen to have lots of it, but I don’t want to use it if it’ll cause issues.
In the video, he says don’t take of more than 30% of the tree in one pruning, then promptly removes 70%.
Pruning advice is more useful to me if it is prefaced by explaining what is meant to be accomplished by it. What the goal is for a particular system of pruning and training, especially when it contradicts other systems.
You won’t girdle the branch if tied properly. With string anchored to the ground tie a loop in the string short of where you want the branch. Then take the loose end, loop it over the branch, and tie back to the loop. That means the string contacts the branch only on the top side. It doesn’t girdle that way. And you have a string that’s easily adjustable for branch placement.
murky - I assume you’re referring to the tree at the end of the video, which maybe he should have taken just one of the two branches instead of both that year. Most of his trees are ones that he planted, and I think he only takes 30% or less from the of those. Maybe the one at the end was an example of what to do if you purchase land that has an old neglected tree like that one. But still, he did prune more than 30% on it.
He has a U-Pick orchard, so I think his purpose would be to produce enough fruit for customers to reach from the ground.
If I recall, the system is call Solaxe pruning system.
Thanks mamuang!!
Thanks fruitnut! maybe I could use a taut line hitch with that.
Yeah, I’m talking about that overgrown inherited one around 8:45 minutes.
While holding onto that tree before cutting he says “you just have to remember that you can’t take off more than a third of the tree in a year”.
agreed, looks like he got carried away!
I use poly string that lies flat. Does not girdle the tree. I also use a taught line hitch.
A bowline knot comes in Very handy as it will not slip, you can tie it in about ten seconds and you can undo it easily. Essential for my twine training. Once you learn it you can go sailing and use it there too.
Thanks hambone! I’ve used the bowline at the anchor point and a taut line on the other end when I need the line to be adjustable but remain tight (in other uses such as trellising, tarping, and shade cloth tie down).
Here is a better Solaxe pruning video by Hortgro. It comes with explanation why it’s done that way.
Thanks very much mamuang!!!
You are welcome. Also, it reminds me of a newer planting system called Tall Spindle. You can look that up.
After a while, you will feel as confused as I am about pruning
mamuang - yes, I’m aware of the tall spindle from Dr. Robinson, (not familiar, just aware). I don’t know if one is more suited to large orchards vs. food forest. Apparently the Tall Spindle benefits over Solaxe or V-trellis are, 1) high early yields (solaxe harvest is year 4, not sure what tall spindle is yet); 2) High fruit quality; 3) easy to learn (solaxe is more organized, thus more formal); 4) Lower unit costs.
I’m not really looking to have a huge monoculture orchard, so I don’t necessarily need the perfect training system for highest yields.