Best spray for Curcs and Borers

I need an update as to the sprays for Curc and Borers. Many thanks, Mrs. G

Triazide kills 'em all.


How do we make sure we are getting a fresh batch because inadvertently using a bad batch leads to disaster especially with the curcs.?

Is there a concentrate powder that w can mix as needed?


If you wait until shortly before you need it (but long enough to order on the internet if they are out) I’m sure Home Depot or Lloyds would have a fresh shipment in by then- just don’t pick it up in early spring and don’t rely on last years bottle from your cabinet.

If there’s pests on any of your ornamentals you can test it out, or catch a moth or something.

The other problem, or one of the other problems with pyrethroids, is efficacy drops off considerably in hot weather. That could become a problem in controlling summer pests judging from what I’ve read. Olpea probably has a better handle on that than I do.

Imidan keeps a long time but is restricted in several states and is messy to mix. The best thing for homeowners might be Avaunt but it’s expensive and the label says for agricultural use only even though it’s a relatively safe chemical.

I would also recommend Triazicide for PC and borers. Trying it out on some ornamentals is a good idea to test its potency. Around here we have lots of box elder bugs which emerge early if one wanted to test efficacy.

You might also consider permethrin. It’s not really labeled for apples (with any useful labeling) but is labeled for stone fruits. It’s an oil base and doesn’t go bad.

One other possibility is that Ortho makes a product with acetamiprid as the active ingredient. It’s frightfully expensive but works against PC. I use the commercial counterpart Assail (acetamiprid) which is also very expensive, relative to other insecticides. Although I don’t generally use acetamiprid for PC, it does have activity against PC. Acetamiprid is on the EPA’s list of Reduced Risk pesticides.

Alan right of course that pyrethroids are known not to perform well in hot weather. I use them some in the spring and early summer, for control of OFM, stink bug, and latent PC, then I mostly use Assail or Delegate. Delegate (also Reduced Risk) is essentially Spinosad, only it lasts longer and has more efficacy against most pests which plague tree fruit.

It’s a shame for those of us with only a few trees that triazicide only comes in the large bottle. If it really does go bad quickly I’ll be throwing away about 90% of a bottle.

Probably better just to mix the old with the new and spray the trees with it.

Speed, they’ve changed the concentration level of Triazicide at least once that I know of, but I thought a full bottle only made 32 gals of spray. If I remember correctly, the concentration was reduced a few years ago, but the mix ratio was not altered.
For that reason, and for better PC control I doubled that mix rate. Even at that, I still got a lot of apples and plums with the fan shaped blemishes from PC, but no larvae damage.
I’ve switched to Imidan for that reason, and because I’m nearly certain that after spraying Triazicide I felt unusually nervous or twitchy. It may have just been my imagination, but I don’t think so.
So far, no problems at all with the Imidan…it just stinks, whereas the Triazicide is much more pleasant in the odor department. I just really disliked that nervousness.
The 32 oz. bottles got used up very quick for me.

Thanks Alan, I still have some on hand and a new un-opened bottle. I really was wondering if there was a newer solution. Thanks! Mrs. G

Is it necessary to spray Triazicide on the whole tree for borers, or is just the the trunk good enough?

Which borers you gunning for?

Roundheaded Apple Borers.

The entire trunk, unfortunately. I’m glad they are usually only a minor pest around here. Here is some info that probably won’t make you feel better.

After spotting my first borer ever, there is a bit of uneasiness when thinking that any of my trees could be swiss cheese under the bark already. However, past events have already conditioned me into the mindset that losses are to be expected, so have a replenishment process in place. I’m also confident that I can minimize attacks from this point onward now that I know it is a confirmed threat.

Here in southern NY, apples and pears in my nursery and sites I manage don’t suffer much from borers. I expect that the two post petal fall insecticide sprays most trees I manage receive keeps them mostly in check.

In the last 25 years I have had two pear trees decapitated by complete borer girdling but apple trees have only been weakened in the somewhat rare instances where borers have damaged them. the pear trees grew back from below the girdle.


Bought some Assail and sprayed it about 10 days ago using the labeled rate on my Peaches, no smell and I like the “caution” signal word on the label. Several days after spraying, I saw a few stink bugs on my Peaches. Noticed the label mentioned adding horticultural oil to the spray tank but did not say how much. Do you add spray oil or any type of surfactant to your Assail? Also I was looking for something to kill MLB on Peaches with a short PHI in case the Assail fails. The only things I could find were Danitol and Venom with a 3 day PHI. Danitol looks to be a pretty “hot” form of permethin which scared me a bit. Any suggestions for something less toxic with a short PHI to kill MLB? Venom looked like a good candidate for my problem, but from what I can tell, the special needs label for Venom on Peaches expires in August.


Although Assail is labeled for stink bug, it supposedly provides only limited control, so I wouldn’t count on it if you are really trying to control stink bug. I use a non-ionic surfactant with it. It is not recommended to use a sticker w/ Assail because it can inhibit leaf penetration. Most non-ionic surfactants have a sticker component.

I’ve used horticultural oil with Assail before. Just make sure you use a light amount of oil because as you know the oil itself can burn the foliage.

I’m not sure what MLB stands for. Did you mean brown marmorated stink bug?

For insecticides, Danitol has one of the shortest PHI’s I know of for peaches if you need to spray for something really close to harvest. I’m not that familiar with Venom. As you mention, it’s only labeled for stone fruit under the section 18 special needs label. They have renewed this label every year since 2011, so my guess is it will probably be renewed again for next years growing season.

Around here a Loveland product called LI 700 is the soy oil based penetrant most popular with commercial growers. It is also a very powerful acidifying agent. I use it with Assail but you should make sure your tank water isn’t already very acidic.

The Assail should be very useful for OFM and any shoot damaging pest like leaf hoppers and aphids. I spray my grafts and tips of peach and E. plums with it, using a hand sprayer. Requires very little spray to control these pests. Also effective against pear psyla.

Olpea, I’m kinda curious, do you think there is any relationship between short PHI’s or REI’s and the length of time a product remains effective on the tree. I’m speaking mainly of insecticides, not so much fungicides.

For my needs I’ve always been kinda attracted to those with short REI’s, but maybe I’m kidding myself, maybe that also means I just have to apply more frequently.
It at least, seems like a logical assumption.


Baseball was on the TV when I posted and somehow I put MLB when I meant to post BMS. In any event I bought some Danitol. The price was reasonable but at 16oz/acre, its will probably go bad before I can use the whole gallon. Next spray of Assail will get some horticulture oil. I wonder how much would be right for 50 gallons of spray? At the moment I get by with 50 gal/acre on the peaches.


Next time I make a trip to the chemical store, I’m going to pick up some LI 700. I read somewhere that this stuff makes strep about 2X as effective so I can also use it with my fireblight control on my apples next year