It’s coming up through cardboard. I solarized an area, burnt to bare dirt and it’s starting to come back.
I’ve got herbicide. today I start that battle I guess.
I’ve been pulling it up and getting as much roots as I can reach, for two years. it will not stop and it’s taken over an entire area of the garden.
I feel like it’s choking anything it grabs. the sunflowers look like they’re in bondage. it’s my least favorite weed and it feels impossible to control.
I don’t know why it showed up but it did. anyone else battling it? any tips, besides “get a backhoe and find the root ten feet down”?
It’s rated one of the world’s worst weeds. Where I used to work the patches were treated with Tordon. But that stuff may be worse than bindweed. Nothing grows after you treat with Tordon, the dead spot seems to grow, and it lasts for years. The 2-4,D type herbicides are better than roundup. But it’s a many year battle no matter what you use.
I think all I’ve got is a smaller spray bottle of roundup. that and grass killer are all I’ve ever bought in the way of herbicide. I guess I’ll give it a go. I don’t want the area to stay dead, I just want to clear this stuff from under the mulch and board so I can plant trees through it later in the fall.
What I have the best luck doing is pulling out as much as possible, then spraying the new shoots as they emerge. The roots are weakened from sending up new shoots. Not foolproof, but it helps.
I managed to get rid of mine after a few years, consistently pulling up the roots and the plants. So don’t give up. I only got one plant from some plant that I bought to start out.
We became acquainted with bindweed after buying our house in MT. The neighbors felt nothing could be done about it. The state Ag TV show recommended the addition of Quinclorac to the herbicide combo. This slowed its return and we no longer have large areas that are mats of bindweed. The neighbours saw our success and went after it as well. I see growing squash over it so that it gets smothered and doing it for three years. Most don’t want to till because it treats more plants but it can help if repeated and smothered with squash. I’m going after some with a wheel hoe every two weeks. The roots are known to go as deep as thirty feet so burning and surface treatments aren’t likely to get rid go bindweed. Our biggest problem now is in the vegetable garden where we won’t use broadleaf weed killers.
Trim it down to 6" to 12" stalks emerging from the ground, with one or a few leaves remaining. Then with a chemo gloves and a small cloth (e.g. painter’s rags), apply dilute Triclopyr 4 directly to the stalks, taking care not to drip on the ground. In fact, just wipe the damp rags on the stalks. No penetrant needed. They’ll be fried in a couple of weeks.
Same here. I have it in among the perennial plants ot my rain garden and perrenial flowers which means digging it out to weaken it isn’t an option, so I just keep tearing it out by hand when it starts climbing up to strangle everything.
Another nuisance we have more and more of is the invasive porcelain berry. It doesn’t have the same deep rhizomes, but since birds eat the berries then poop the seed wherever they are on fences, trees, tall plants, etc. it is always climbing up as well. In some areas, like along bike paths where there is an edge of a forest, it is practically a matt of vines running up over all the lower vegetation and the closer trees.
Our area was one of the first to try the mites when they were first introduced from Greece. The word control in that article is a joke. At best they gave some suppression for a few years before they succumbed to weather or predation.
I’m pretty sure it’s convolvulus. it’s horrible. I’ve pulled as much as I can get to and used Roundup on a rag to directly wet down each little bit of root I couldn’t get further with
it’s a dense mat trying to climb behind my hoophouse and it’s getting into garden beds from the lawn areas in between them
People keep in mind at least in the midwest I saw some already go to seed on a fence !
Mine is not
Also your suppose to start to pull it before it flowers (according to a invasive site)
(note like some tree’s that send runners your suppose to remove them at a certain time…)
I wonder if after the season you could gather some bind weed , and over winter the Bindweed mites in a terrarium?
Did you see this Guy
This Man Documented 5,000 Trees Being Killed By Vines In Takoma Park
(Note a random quote )
Look-alikes: Porcelain berry looks like a closely related species, raccoon grape (Ampelopsis cordata ), which is native to the Southern Midwest, but not to the Great Lakes basin. Raccoon grape is aggressive in its native range and may be undesirable in Great Lakes ecosystems (Missouri Department of Conservation). The leaves of raccoon grape are either unlobed or shallowly lobed. Its young stems are hairless while porcelain berry has hairy new growth.
(I have not been familiar with each these species in person yet side by side , I’ve seen porcelain berry I believe, but saying that I have for years looked over a look a like of racoon grape so not really sure if what I was seeing was the actually Porcelain berry)
Oh boy, I feel your pain. We moved into a house 9 years ago that has it and I’ve never been able to eradicate it. I feel the only way to be free of it is to move! But I will say that constantly pulling it has weakened it enough that it isn’t the nightmare that it used to be. I know the “hot spots” and try to keep on top of removing the new growth.
According to University of CA, it can root down 14 feet in favorable conditions and may take 3-5 years of complete exclusion of light to kill. Not sure how feasible long-term light exclusion is for you (it isn’t for me), but that could be one option.