Cheaper Alternative Slow Release Fertilizer than Osmocote?

Did you mean 50 lb bag?

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Yes :blush:

I care about non-GMO seed but when turned into fertilizer, I donā€™t think it matters. Only thing that concerns me is pesticide residue.

Iā€™m going to check one ag/feed store close by.

You can bet thereā€™s a lot in GMO cotton seed meal.

Thereā€™s a misstep in your mathematics. Cottonseed meal is typically 5% nitrogen by weight, so youā€™re paying $13 per pound of Nitrogen. You could buy a 25-Lb bag of industry standard water-soluble 20-10-20 (instead of your current sources of N-P-K) for around $35 from suppliers in the SF Bay area. That cost would be $7 per pound of Nitrogen.

Iā€™m bad. I go to the local pet store and get alfalfa pellets (for rabbits) and fertilize with those. I drop 1.5 cups into rainwater, add a little fish emulsion and some Epsom salts (after I have soaked in it) and use that this time of year.

I also make compost, bought 1.5 cu yards this year and occasionally use a little miracle grow.

I do also use holly tone for my hollies and heathers (which are not looking well).

Scott

Alfalfa pellets are about 2% Nitrogen. If you buy a 2 Lb bag from the pet store for $6, then youā€™ve paid $150 per pound of Nitrogen.

If you just need the N, Calcium Nitrate is an inexpensive source. Its very soluble in water and works great with an inexpensive hozon injector. At around $15 a bag the N is $2/pound plus you get the calcium. Works well for fruit trees in pots.

In the fertilizer industry, we usually judge the cost of a full-spectrum fertilizer on the price per net Lbs of Nitrogen.

ā€¦ is not a full-spectrum fertilizer for Fruit Trees, nor is it a good choice for unfiltered municipal water which typically contains calcium to balance acidity, nor for many western soils that already contain Calcium.

But we east-coasters get an abundance of rain, but the bad news is this leaches calcium and other minerals from our soils.

I agree, it can. Calcium Nitrate is overkill for this.

Some of us, sometimes. There are others of us it forgets to fall on during the growing seasons. :cry:

Pure N strips organic matter from the soil in that it encourages the rapid breakdown of organic matter without replacing it (with the exception of more plant residue from more vigorous plants). This is the basis for the organic growers mantra ā€œfeed the soil and let the soil feed the plantā€.

Iā€™ve used blood, fish emulsion, dead fish, leaves, grass clippings, chicken, horse and cow manure, alfalfa cubes and free alfalfa shake from feed store lots and gotten excellent results from all of it. If I was a hobbyist I would rarely buy fertilizer now because there is always so much effective stuff available for free if you are willing to haul it. Even now I use my own urine as my primary N and K source for my vegetable garden and my own orchard. Everything gets mulched and the vegetable garden gets home-made compost, so the soil gets richer not poorer. The cost of fertilizer includes the cost to the soil itself if the fertilizer doesnā€™t replace organic matter being removed from the soil.

I have cut down on mulching mature fruit trees, however, because a soil can become excessively stimulating in the east where you canā€™t control irrigation. Slow release N, including that from OM in the soil itself stimulates the wrong kind of growth in mature fruit trees, where you really want to get the N specifically into spur leaves in early spring only, as much as possible. As the soil warms, more organic N is released, which is fine when you are growing vegetables and establishing fruit trees (although species that get most growth in spring may get better overall growth with quick release N applications at first growth).

Here is some data on various commercial organic N sources. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/234.html

Calcium is normally applied as part of the cover spray program for commercial apples in the east - sometimes in the form of calcium nitrate. Also large applications of calcium in the form of gypsum to the soil to help control bitter pit and help improve storage life. Its pretty normal for N to be the only nutrient called for in the soil test in my area so no full analysis fertilizer is required.

We get some dry periods too. I collect rain in 55-gallon rain barrels from various out buildings on the property and when the drier periods come then just hook it up to my irrigation.
I love the rain we get here and the air after a rain how it is so clean and charged. All the pollen is washed down into puddles and the creek swells - just love it.
I have read that it reduces the soil ergs and slows growth but foliars can restart that.

This year I ran out of fertilizer and was so busy I threw my grass fertilizer on everything which is milorganite. Many probably object to human manure. Approved for garden use though. Some worry about heavy metals, if you do, you should check whatā€™s in regular fertilizer. Often higher than Milorganite! (AFAIK most people avoid eating heavy metals). I must say it works pretty darn well! It has no potassium though.
Iā€™m still super busy I need to get some soon! Iā€™m rather busy to as my daughter is getting married! Today! Yikes! Iā€™m wearing a Tux tonight. I think Iā€™m as nervous as she is!

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Have a great time! Prohibit yourself from all forums for the rest of the day and celebrate the moment! Weā€™ll still be here tomorrow. :slightly_smiling:

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Congrats Drew! Must be a great feeling. I helped bring my second one to this world yesterday!

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Nine months qualifies as slow release, but itā€™s definitely not cheaper than Osmocote. :wink: Congratulations!

I hope both of yours grow up appreciating the dirt as much as their dad.

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