Combatting brown rot


I have been trying to grow Carmine Jewels for several years. I finally had a huge crop this summer, but they all got rot. I want to prevent it for next year; giving up on organic for them. What would be best to spray on them yet this fall? I have on hand already Daconil, Dormant Oil, Immunox, Seranade, Captan, Bonide Funginol (chlorthalonil), Nufilm, Kocide 3000, and Sulfur Lime. I tend to buy things, then chicken out using them after reading the cautions, so most are unopened bottles. I would gather from what I have read that either Kocide or Sulfur Lime would be good after the leaves drop this fall. Unfortunately, the Sulfur Lime precipitates in the bottle once it is opened, and it is no longer available, so I hesitate opening that bottle this fall. I have an already opened bottle that I don’t know if it is salvageable somehow, too. What do others recommend as the best choice?


I use Kocide 3000 when the leaves fall, then in the Sping I’ll add Chlorthalonil, Immunox and Indar into the rotation as well.

Once the fruit sets I keep a close eye on things and if I still have some signs of BR I’ll hit it with Propiconazole (Like Bonide Infuse or Ferti.Lome) and maybe another shot of Indar.

I really thought Indar was going to be the end-all when it came to all this stuff, and I’ve still had BR crop up in small amounts after what I thought was diligent spraying. So for me I just keep a few items in the arsenal.

But for sure when the bushes are without leaves I’m a Kocide 3000 with sticker guy!


I don’t consider copper useful for brown rot, mostly I use it for bacterial issues. Am I wrong?

Indar and Captan are my most used chemicals to address brown rot- rotated with Pristine. I only use chlor for black knot of plums because most of my brown rot control is based on apps a month before ripening for stone fruit. I cut that to 2 weeks for most susceptible varieties, such as nectarines. Maybe now also Indian Free.


No I think you’re right actually. I don’t think Copper is tops on most university recommendations, although some universities do recommend copper in their list of fungicides (as well as Stark Bro’s)

But I generally just hit my cherry bushes when I hit the peaches in late October/early November with Kocide 3000, but honestly I’m doing the peaches more as a PLC thing.

I was a little bit disappointed with Indar and wondered if my using 1/4 tsp per gal was just not enough…

I think you had told me once when I was considering buying the more expensive Indar, that if I was having reasonable success with Immunox that I should just continue using that. I STILL buy it…


No, Immunox is not effective for BR here. I was saying Monterey Fungus Fighter.

Indar will protect well against BR as long is there aren’t too many split pits and timing is good. But it needs to applied with a very good sticker-spreader.


That’s right - I recall you sending me out for MFF when I had an outbreak years ago. I couldn’t find it locally and wound up getting Bonide Infuse which has the Propiconazole I was needing.

Immunox is labeled for BR but not sure how well it does…

I remember how giddy I was when I sprayed the Infuse on my tree back then that was getting BR and it stopped it in its tracks.


For me, copper does not work for brown rot. Neither Immunox.

I’ve never tried Infuse or Monterey Fungi Fighter (before it’s gone) . I’ve used Indar with improved result. However, I may need to spray Indar more than 2-3 times.

I will try to follow @scottfsmith’s approach and get Elevate for next year to use alternately with Indar.


SO happy with Indar!


So should I start with the Captan plus Nufilm I have on hand (several years old) and then look for some MFF to use this fall yet, too?


Here, nothing done until summer seems crucial. It is the protection about a month before ripening, although scab can contribute to the problem. MFF has curative powers (except when rot is internal)- Captan does not.


I’ve never heard of spraying for brown rot in the fall.


So the brown rot doesn’t harbor in the buds or wood over winter?


It does if you let fruit rot and leave it on the tree, but I’ve never seen guidelines that included fall apps. With peach leaf curl you are talking about a disease that has to be nipped in the prebud, so fall and early spring apps of copper or chlor are called for.

It may be a question of temperatures at which brown rot becomes active. The literature talks about blossom blight as early stage brown rot, but I’ve never seen it here after a quarter of a century tending hundreds of peach trees, and I often don’t get first app on peaches until petal fall.