Do you grow iffy trees that you know upfront won't produce regularly?

It hasn’t been 3 winters yet, so death might be in the cards. One way to find out!

After hitting -40 this winter, the Trader has some minor tip die-back. It is in a rougher position than the Illinois, receiving more prevailing winds and south sun until the trees in front of it get some more size on them.

The Illinois is going strong, but suffered 3ft of dog induced die-back a couple weeks ago - so 3ft remain. Nice and green on the inside. I might take this opportunity to try and make it more bushy. It is planted so that the house will block most of the west wind, and there’s a couple bushes covering to the north. I’ll also attempt to root the snapped off portions, despite the extremely poor likelihood I will get a positive result.

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I am 64 now.. and have a European plum I started in 2018.. that has not fruited yet.

It is blooming nicely this year.. could be the year for fruit finally. I sure hope so.

Don’t wait until you are about to kick the bucket to plant one of those :wink:

TNHunter

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Goodness! Was it started from seed??? If it had been grafted it shoulda fruited by 2021-ish? :thinking: Good advice, none the less! :joy:

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@SoxPNW… no it was a good sized bare root tree .. nothing to complain about, nice size, healthy.

Some say EU Plums just take time to fruit.. they have to get ugly first.

TNHunter

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They have to get ugly first??? :rofl::rofl::rofl:

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@SoxPNW .. yes.. I posted a picture of my tree a few years back and someone told me that.

My tree was too pretty.. EU Plums have to get older and more ugly before they start producing.

I have a Lapins Cherry that was started in 2018… A very stout well developed bare root tree that has grown well, very healthy.

it produced first fruits last year.

It bloomed some for a few years before it ever actually set fruit.

Waiting 7 8 9 years for fruit.. not my fav thing to do.

TNHunter

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Yeah, pretty much all my stone fruit falls into this category. I’m in the UK so the odds are already stacked against peaches and apricots outdoors, but I keep trying because the one year you actually get a decent crop makes up for the three years of nothing. My Moorpark apricot has fruited exactly once in four years. Still worth it.

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:thinking: Wow, that is interesting! I only have Lapins as a single limb on a couple of my multigrafted trees, but they seem to fruit each year. In fact its just about to flower, same with my Rainier cherry limb. I’m definitely not so patient to wait more than 5 years for fruit, lol.

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Hiya! I tend to follow a lot of UK gardeners like Brett, Lyonheart84 because we’re always trying to grow similar things and it feels like our climates are somewhat similar too, so it’s fun to compare notes. I just got a bareroot Moorpark a couple months ago. I planted it in a half barrel sized container with a few garlic bulbs around it, lol. I pruned it to a shape of my liking (low and open center) and it looks like it’s getting ready to bud out soon. I saw videos of folks who kept their smaller peach trees under cover and that produced new foliage with out leafcurl. I will try that next year with my mini Pix Zee nectarine and peach, as they both flowered profusely this year but the foliage all seems to have leafcurl. :sweat_smile: Anyhow, I’ve never had a fresh apricot, so I’m looking forward to picking and sampling my first one (would be amazing if that could be this season!), especially since you said they are well worth it. :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

Z6a southern Rockies here.

I do, all the time. It’s generally a mistake.

Life is too short to nurture a tree that usually doesn’t bear fruit. Furthermore, pretty much any well-adapted home-grown fruit is a big hit.

At the very least, research the living daylights out of it first. Don’t assume that your local nursery will have anything except a variety that will survive. ‘Moorpark’ is a supposedly late-blooming staple—-that almost never works in my area.

Look into the Harrow, Ontario varieties. They usually have “Har” somewhere in their name. I’m impressed because of their excellent pear trees for my area.

Apricots are particularly interesting, because they originate from Central Asia. After being cultivated in the Mediterranean for centuries, they generally lost their cold-weather adaptation.

But the genes were still there, and Harrow brought it back. Might as well maximize your chances.

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>Do you grow iffy trees that you know upfront won’t produce regularly?Do you grow iffy trees that you know upfront won’t produce regularly?

With the current climate irregularities, and extremes, and other man,or nature inflicted influences, pretty much every tree wouldn’t produce regularly lately. Even formerly surefire ones like apples, mulberries, medlars, nuts’ve been failing more than once in recent years, and the very few that had some fruit surviving, like persimmons, were severely attacked by hordes of hungry critters from insects to birds and rodents, so that the salvaged produce was scant.

So plant the hugest diversity, iffy ones included, to the best of your capacity and hope for the best, while be prepared in various other ways for lean years ahead.

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Yeah I’m around 40, so I (hope) to have a little time to experiment and decide a little later what is not worth the effort to keep as I get a little older. For now I’ve got an Apricot I don’t expect to get anything from but maybe once every 5 years (if lucky) due to our swing spring weather and myriad of stone fruit pests/diseases in my region.

I’m wondering if that may actually end up being a feature and not a bug though, since I imagine after a few years of my peaches producing Brown Rot may become a big enough headache for me to consider removing them. if that happens (and apricots are the only remaining stone fruit), I wonder if the multiple down years I’ll inevitably have with apricots may naturally be a way to let the brown rot pressure reduce between crops, so I may actually hold off on pulling the plug on my Apricot experiment longer than what should be a more consistent bet of peaches.

Another that may fall into this category is kiwi, but if the roller coaster springs don’t stop it, it would be nice to grow something with substantially fewer pests/disease threats to fend off.

I’m also experimenting with zone pushing with some Feijoa this year, but of course I’m going into it with the knowledge that’s unlikely to succeed long term even if I have a few lucky winters. But what are gardeners/growers if not optimists and/or gamblers on some level?

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This is an article I wrote a little while ago for the MidFEX Grapevine. Sorry for the white crazy formatting but I was unable to correct it.

So You Want To Grow Apricots In Chicago by Patrick Driscoll

           You live in zone 5 and you have a dream of tree ripened apricots. I did too. Over the past thirty years I tried growing many apricots. I started with Puget Gold, a cold hardy self fertile variety. It never blossomed. I grew it for a half dozen years until it succumbed to disease and I searched for another victim. Then along came Blenheim, and then Sungold. Blenheim is one of the European premiere dessert apricots. The Blenheim is self pollinating and grew prolifically, never blossomed, then up and died after say 3 years. It was a great loss, a gorgeous beautiful tree. Along that time, I planted the Sungold, from Miller in 1992, which is still alive, and a gigantic twenty five foot tree at my old orchard. Every 4 or 5 years, it would beat the late frosts, and the blooms would produce hundreds of magnificent small apricots. Sungold is not self pollinating, but that didn’t seem to stop it. It would bloom every year, hundreds of blooms on a 25 foot high tree, that would all turn brown after a frost. I tried lots of preemptive remedies. One, KDL (Potassium based) where 3 oz KDL, 3 oz white vinegar to 1 gallon of water ratio is sprayed onto the tree a few days before the frost. It seemed to work sometimes, but I couldn’t spray a 25 foot tree! I tried the Polish neighbor’s remedy of buckets of charcoal lit and distributed under the canopy. It was always a crap shoot with a 25 foot tree. But 4 years is a long time to wait for an apricot.

           So now we have moved, and have greatly downsized, from 80 fruit trees on ¾ of an acre to now 20 trees on a 73x50’ back yard. Of the 20 trees, last year I chose 2 apricots. A Chinese Mormon (self-pollinating) on Citation (Dwf) from Bay Laurel, and a Pakistani Hunza (self-pollinating) on Citation from Raintree. Both are known to be extremely winter hardy. Since I planted these last year, I have received very helpful comments on Growingfruit.org. One comment from Bob Purvis up in Idaho, a very old friend of MidFEx, who has an orchard and sells scion of cold hardy plants, especially 40 varieties of apricots.  Bob is the NAFEX chair and North American consultant on Apricots.       https://purvisnurseryandorchard.weebly.com/apricots.html

Or Search Purvis nursery.

Another comment came in about the ‘Montana Fruit Tree Company’, outside of Missoula. They have a good selection of cold hardy fruit trees, and have nineteen cold hardy apricots. Apricot Trees – Montana Fruit Trees Or Search Montana Fruit Tree Company.

Another comment below just came in on the Growing Fruit.org site just today. Check it out, search topic ‘Frost resistant apricot varieties’

“Tomcot, Orangered, and Alfred are among the top favorites for growers on this site in frost-prone regions. Zard, Harglow, and Hoyt Montrose would also be good bets. Sungold and Moongold are both very cold hardy, but are now generally considered antiquated because more-recent breeding programs have produced better varieties. Anything out of the Rutgers or Harrow breeding program is likely to do well in Illinois. I would also third that Bob Purvis is the best person to email these questions. He currently has scionwood and rootstocks available, so now is the time to place an order. “

           After all this I ended up with Chinese Mormon (China) and Hunza (Pakistani Mountains) planted last fall, and now will plant Zard (Iran) and Montrose apricot this spring. Zard seems very promising.
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Wow, I thought I had it bad with apricots.

Which ones do you want to try?

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Our trees have bloomed in January before too :roll_eyes:.

The ones on my list are: hardy Iowa, Brookcot, Harglow, Helena, jamal, Jerseycot, Jimmy Thomas, Montrose, sugar pearls and Zard.

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I’m old too. About 5 years ago I was hesitant to plant more trees due to age. I gave up thinking I won’t get any fruit. Then I decided to just work blind and not give up before I start. I planted a lot more trees, they have been producing fruit and I’m still here. But I plant big 6 - 7 foot trees, not twigs.

Do like some person here said…I want to die with a shovel in my hand!

If I ever come into $ from a windfall, like a lotto; I will buy some land and plant a lot of trees and get a greenhouse for the potted figs. I just keep going until I don’t wake up. I‘m not giving up.

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110% THIS. :smiling_face_with_three_hearts: Even the part about the lotto. Never give up!!!

Wow, I am in the UK so good to see how different the US climates are. I had a victoria plum that heavy cropped for about 4 years then I lost last year to an early ‘heatwave’ in spring. Whipped it out and have a young one in it’s place, hopefully in a year or 2 I should have some again.

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