Still pretty juicy next day.. so is the suggestion to just wait til the bleeding settles and then bark graft it then? I was wondering if I should try side veneer grafts a couple inches lower than the cuts, but that feels like more effort than waiting and just doing a bark graft.
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Some folks do wait til bleeding stops. Feel free to make some diagonal slashes below graft, see if that dries out the cut.
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Ambrosia Beetles in two young partially winter- killed figs! Darn! Just a few tiny white pencils of frass so I sawed off under it and bagged wood then painted stump with dilute white latex interior paint. Is it possible I saved the tree (mainly roots now) if I caught it early? No visible signs until today.
The two are Hative d’ Argenteuil and Green Michurinska.
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if you cut it off below def a good chance. i think theres a funcidie you can apply which id consider doing as its the fungus that kills the plant
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Yeah for sure, I had like 7 figs that happened to and all of them have re-sprouted from the ground.
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Be careful of moldy rooting gel 
lost 75% of my cuttings this year because of it. I will no longer use rooting gel…
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well my in-ground experiment succeeded. both survived the winter with just a heap of pine needles thrown on top and are putting out growth even on the tall branches that were not protected
the babied container figs from the greenhouse are all fine. but!
my root cuttings i was trying, got dry while i was sick a few days, closed container lay flat from now on just in case. (there were grapes, mulberries and fig cutting in there. most failed after the dry days)
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following up on another of my in-ground fig experiments from last winter. the figs are chicago hardy with a grafted lsu or branch(left), chicago hardy(center) and black unknown.
the two chicagos were trimmed back and pinned down to the ground. the center one had a bag of mulch directly on top, a double layer of thick cardboard, and another bag of mulch on top of those. i had and extra bag that i put on top of the mound to hold the chips in place.
the left one had a single bag of mulch mounded on top with a muck bucket on top of that. i put my sensor on top of the mound, inside the bucket:
the black unk on the right was treated the same as above but was only trimmed back to fit under the bucket but wasnt pinned to the ground. i dont seem to have a picture of it being trimmed.
it looks like they all survived with a little branch dieback here and there:
the sensor was placed poorly as it clearly shows sitting on top of the pile where the the air was super heated in the sun and provided no cold protection when the temps dropped:
what i should have done is place one directly on the ground where the pinned branches were and place another in the middle of the branches of the black unk that wasnt pinned to the ground. that would have given a really good picture of what was going on. what we do know is that the protections worked with the cheapest mulch i could find. i cannot say the same for my other protection experiment: Report: Looks like all the in-ground figs tops did not survive -8 F Winter even with some protection - #43 by kinghat
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I am new to figs. Can someone tell me what this is on my new figs. I uppotted them to five gallons two weeks ago into a pine bark based mix that seems popular. It rained for about four days in a row after.
It’s called ‘Fig Rust’ which is a fungal disease that can be caused by the soil being too wet for too long, I believe that it only happens with potted fig trees.
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fig rust, yes. fungicide will get rid of it but unless its really bad generally harmless. not only potted figs can get it and yes, it grows in humid conditions
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Now that I think about it, we sometimes get it here in the autumn on the leaves of our in-ground fig trees, although not every year. It is very humid here other times too, although I think during the hotter months, the heat with the sunlight prevents it. When I have it I don’t bother spraying. It’s never damaged the trees in any away, although if the soil is needlessness too wet, something could be added to the soil that does not stay wet as long, for potted trees.
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My in ground vdb is alive! We had a brutal winter here in 7A, and next time I think I’ll protect it. All I did was have a giant ring of mulch around it and a chicken wire cage. I think it won’t fruit for me this year but I’m just happy it’s alive!
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I’ve done all the prep work for my 2nd batch of fig cuttings. Hopefully in the next few days I’ll dip in rooting hormone then put the in pots.
Most of my first smaller batch of cuttings are rooting and/or callused over. The pots sit outside in the patio area.
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I can read a bit but do you have a list and what are you excited for
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Don’t have one off the top of my head, as my list of wants wasn’t separated from my owned varieties. I’ll make a list tomorrow if I can remember. Nest year I hope to acquire more LSU varieties due to their reported tolerance of humid environments.
I’m “excited” about the plant potentially making fruit and me eating them. Figs are also a plant that can sell for a good chuck of money (at least for me) and are gaining demand in Kentucky. Some proven varieties here also root readily, which is another plus.
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cuttings from the pruned branches of a few. i think the covered trays in a warm dark place may work ok, it’s optisorb, perlite and a little peat in them. one week in only so I’ve got a little while to wait and see.
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Fig
Chicago hardy
Celeste
Brooklyn white
Bensonhurst purple
Brown Turkey fig
Beer’s black
Lattarula (Italian honey)
laradek’s brown turkey
Lefka paralias
LSU gold
Italian everbearing
White marseille
DFI0023 palmata Hybrid
Syrian honey
Soa Linz
Khurtmani
Champagne
GM 149a
GM 125
Lish’s unk (Tena?)
Saleeb
UCD caprifig
Caprifig Q
Caprifig S
LSU DC 2
LSU DC 7
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Fig discussions turning ugly??? Ha, ha, ha. Funniest thing I’ve heard today. (Admittedly it’s only 7 am). What are the topics people fight over?
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If it so funny to you, why don’t you search for fig threads and
read them yourself.
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