Grafting in the fall?

As usual, at this time of year when my orchard chores become a little less intense, the mind starts wandering; and not always in the sanest direction.

There are several thoughts that are playing bumper cars in my brain.
I am trying to figure out if there is a way to graft that would speed up branching structures and of fruiting on the graft. Kind of arrogant to try to speed up Mother Nature, but… if she is able, I am willing to entice.

My thoughts go something like this:
So… here goes…

  1. The usual advise is that the scion wood have 2-4 buds max.
    I have 3-4 foot shoots that look perfect to just graft as a whole. WHY NOT? . More buds, After a heading cut, more branches etc.

  2. The general advice is to graft in the spring when there is active growth. Is there any reason not to graft in the FALL? The tree is not asleep things are still going on. Maybe the healing will just take longer. But at this time of year… time is what we have and hot temperature extremes are on the wane.

  3. Is there a reason not to graft thicker older wood. Let’s say second or third year wood. There is still the same live cambium layer to fuse. With larger wood we might have to strengthen the graft by putting in a wood screw through the older dead heartwood until enough growth happens to strengthen the graft. We put screws into broken human bones when they break to support them why not here?

After the chuckles… any thoughts


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Haven’t gotten a response, so I figured to update the SUBJECT line .

Anyone have any info on this???


You have to have sufficient heat, Mike.

Long branches will not graft. Stick with a few buds or a 6-8" stick.

In late summer/early Fall (with enough heat) callous formation will happen. w/o decent heat there will be none callous formation.

You are able to do:
chip budding
cleft grafting
whip or whip & tongue
or you use a tool with a V cut.

I would recommend you bag the grafts for added heat and definitely use parafilm/wax in conjunction.

You need a couple weeks of temps in the 70’s or you’re outta luck.

Remove the leaves on the scions, also.

How much success you will have I really don’t know but your’e right, grafting may be done at this time when trees are not actively growing.


it is known that the cherry tree transplant in September offers very good results.
I am a bad grafter. I miss almost all my apricot grafts. Last year, on the advice of a friend, I tried from September 19th to November 25th, every 15 days. Result 100% success! Result tomorrow I graft.
The grafted trees at this time are also more beautiful.