I had a Pen at some point. It was small and never stood out for flavor so I removed it some time ago.
I had most of the top ones from that Wye planting as I harvested scions there 10+ years ago. There were several good ones but the ones that survived a long time were mainly small-fruited ones. My Aizu Michirazu finally died this last winter, it was one of my favorites but I’m not going to run out to replace it.
I’m trying to play around with persimmons and thought I would share a couple of pics. Here are a couple of my persimmon areas.
A persimmon in front that I grafted this week, and a slightly bigger one behind that I thought I would let get some diameter before hacking off to graft. I’m trying to start persimmon seeds under the milk jugs (I did 6 or 7 seeds per hole), but I might not have stratified them long or wet enough (just short of 3 months). There are is a black walnut behind to the right, and an oak my son started from seed a few winters back in his window to the left (with a temporary ash behind).
Here is a row of persimmon seedlings. I planted them real close with the thought of increasing my odds of having a few persimmon…and they’ve all lived 
I grafted onto just a few of those this week. We are sometimes real short on rain, so I’ve tried to cut down the grass competition a little. Some butternuts (and weeds) behind.
Dax,
Do you know someone who can identify persimmon variety by the Leaf and blossom picture? My neighbor has a tree that blossomed the first time this year but he does not know it’s variety. Attached are photos of this tree which appears about 7-10 years old. My Asian Chocolate is about 50 yards away so it may pollinize it.
Dennis
You’re going to have to wait for it to fruit, likely. @Arhus76 maybe?
I can’t really place anyone else on the group except for @ediblelandscaping.sc or @BambooMan who grow a substantial amount of kaki persimmons.
Again, Dennis, if you want me to find your questions, use this @Barkslip so I am informed.
Thank you,
Dax
I am going to try potting up some benchgrafts and see how they do. Persimmons do not transplant well especially if you don’t get most of the massive root system. I’m hoping there will be less transplant shock with potted trees.
I grafted last year on newly potted bare root seedlings. They had almost two months potted before I grafted. Every graft that took I grew until the early fall and then transplanted out. Everyone of them did fantastic. I had 7/10 take but one killed by psyllids. So I ended up with 6 trees in ground that are growing well this spring. So now I’m wondering if I need to pot up all of these for next year.
I agree with Dax. You’ll have to wait. Is the tree grafted; do you see a graft union? 7-10 years is a long time, Asian persimmon are known to be precocious.
Edit: a picture of the trunk and growth habit helps too.
You will not find anyone, I think, to answer that question. Even when you have the fruits it may be complicated unless you have an atypical variety, a bit like Tamopan. If the fruit is non-astreingent it will be easier. But if it is an astreingent, on photo, without tasting … I do not believe it.
To solve the mystery, the geographical area, the provenance (nursery …) can be guessed.
I will take another example. I put here a picture of a red-fleshed apple tree, which has a red flowering and young purple leaves. How many people will give the right answer? With khaki it’s even harder.
I could see no graft, tree is about 2.5” diameter at the ground level.
Looking great!
Thanks Tony. And thanks for the Scion wood.
Do you know anything about Okja? Cliff sent it to me but didn’t say much other than that it’s a cold hardy hybrid.
Okja is new to me. Maybe @KYnuttrees can tell Us more about it. The only 4 Hybrids that I am growing right now are JT-02 aka Mikkusu, Rossyanka, Kasandra, and NB-02.
Steven,
Okja is a Korean astringent type of Persimmon and I am not sure how hardy it is. It may survive your Northeast Zone. JT-02 is suited for my Z5.
Tony
An update on my persimmon grafts. They are growing so fast! More than a foot of growth in 20 days since buds broke.
This is my first year grafting persimmons. I had some spare rootstocks yesterday so I grafted some more for the heck of it. The scion part was completely wet today and there was liquid leaking out from the parafilm. I panicked and removed the parafilm to prevent the scion from drowning. More liquid is leaking out. Is the rootstock bleeding out or something? How can I remedy this? These are kaki on D. Virginiana. Here’s a picture to illustrate.
On a more positive note, some that I grafted a couple weeks ago are budding out.
I would rewrap the scion again with parafilm to prevent the scion from drying out and as long as the rubber band wrapped real tight and just a little sap wetness is Ok. Don’t over water the rootstock since you have some sap bleeding.
Tony, that is absolutely correct in a common sense way.
The last thing you can do @PharmerDrewee is to drill with a super thin bit a whole a few inches up from the base of the rootstock and then go another inch up from that and drill another pass completely thru going oppositely.
Goooood luck man.
Option four is when these options fail to find a healthy scion and start again. It’s never too late man. Do it anyway.
Dax-
Some of my grafts really started to grow the past week or so. These are Korea kaki. They’re supposed to be very cold hardy.
Nice cans.
