Exactly. And it’s an acidless variety, which means that it also isn’t capable of producing anthocyanins at all.
The time I had this one, it was an interesting novelty, but I didn’t eat the second fruit I had bought. It’s just a bit too close to being insipid. At least the store bought ones I had. Needs more flavor and more sugar, because without any acid there isn’t much left other than a hint of lime and lots of water.
Actually, I’ve read somewhere that are three different genes that make citrus acidless, and only on (the most common) blocks the the production of anthocyanins. I’ll see if I can find it.
The biopath that produces carotenoids in plants is separate from the biopath that produces anthocyanins though they share a few chemical inputs. Both are involved in flavor where an excess of either results in bad flavors. Lycopene - which gives red color in many fruits - is in the carotenoid biopath. I have seed for tomato varieties that produce high beta carotene (97L97 is 45X a normal tomato) and high anthocyanin (Blueberry Sugar is jet black where exposed to sun). I’ve tried breeding them for higher levels of sugar but it only helps without ever really changing the underlying flavor.
What is the actual purpose of carotenoids and anthocyanins? Carotenoids are heavily involved in vitamin synthesis plus disease tolerance and anthocyanins are usually to protect the plant from pests and diseases.
Thank you for the input and info on acid and anthocynanins.
Haven’t fruited it but had looked for santa teresa fem for several years (was not easy to find) until snagging it from Madison last year - big limoncello plans.
I ended up going with these, but putting shipping out so I can change if anyone else has inputs. This order is an added cost and stress I 100% don’t need, but for some reason want to do right now. The rootstocks will likely be for the 10 degree and the keraji. Will essentially be my first time grafting citrus as I’m not counting a really quick attempt this past spring.
Miho has been great tasting for me and relatively hardy. But your grafting window is shrinking. I grafted some 2 weeks ago and most did take. But temperature is dropping below optimal for most regions.
Thank you for that note. I only know the window by a quick internet search. Temps should remain above 55 at night and daytime low to mid 70’s…but forecast is arguably useless. What is the window you look for?
These are also in containers, so I can bring them indoors or garage to callous. Are first few days (4??) most important? Just lower humidity inside. Garage is higher, not much light but a little. Appreciate any tips!!
Citrus optimal temperatures are between 70 and 85. They are higher than temperate trees. Depending on your climate, you may want to keep them inside. I’ve honestly never grafted indoor citrus. Im sure most peoplle wont let their house go above 85 if they can help it so spraying the plant to keep the humidity up may be the only thing you have to remember.
I personally wouldn’t graft citrus in the late summer or fall if the option of waiting until spring was available, especially for plants that will be outside part of the time. Winter is tough, you get freeze thaw cycles, it’s harder to manage watering since root rot is worse with cold soil but the air is also drier, spider mites can flare up suddenly and can defoliate plants or straight up kill them if they’re weaker, which new grafts will be. The new grafts also just might not have time to fully callous and might initially look fine but then fail later in winter or first thing in the spring when they try to flush and the poor callous or damaged vascular tissue fails to support them.
That makes sense. But, these containers will be moved indoors and it’s looking like to a large grow tent. We’ll see what happens. I don’t have any full-time outdoor citrus, yet.
Well, I lost my nice grafting window and temps are turning cold after today. I can easily bring everything inside. Do you think putting a plastic bag over the graft to increase humidity might be a good idea? Or bad or useless?
I’m grafting Monday now. scratch that…might warm back up Wednesday. Who knows. If even a few take with the possibility of it being all indoors or moving in/out, I’ll be happy.
Plastic bag probably wouldn’t hurt. I would also spray it with some water every few days as well. Just keep an eye out for mold development.
Cuttings I set up to root 10/5 (from all the extra wood) are showing signs of life. Why is it so exciting when this happens?! Grafts not yet, but it’s been less than a week for those.
Below one sprouting is Marrs
Ones with SOL here are miho wase, Sanbokan, NZL
Nothing yet from keraji and 10 degree which are the others trying to root. Buoyed by the SOL I’ll throw the remaining sticks in soil as well because why not.
“Because why not “ has gotten me a few good trees in the past. And also in trouble when it doesn’t involve trees lol
