Reg, no, I ordered from Bay Laurel. I only live about 20 miles from there, so that way I can avoid shipping if they have what I am looking for.
Nice to be close enough for pickup
Thank you, you really have an interesting climate over there… I meant Royal Crimson Cherry but I honestly have no clue about the taste.
Actually, Royal Crimson was one of my original choices. But Bay Laurel doesn’t have it on Maxma 14, only Mazzard, so I chose Lapins in place of it.
Will be looking to double up on my more trouble free varieties instead of…or at least, more than venture into new territory in regards to varieties…
Just saw this, sorry - no its an apple from the 50’s, no patent
Already ordered Nutting Bumpus (about time!) & Windham Russet scions from Fedco.
Am seeking another variety shunned by codling moths to go with the two that never need protection here: Redfield & Hunt Russet. Have heard or read good things about Little Benny & Glockenapfel on that score. If something comes up, I’ll order scions from Temperate Orchard Conservancy. It needs to be mid-season blooming (good chance of that!) to set seed for both Redfield (earliest blooming) & Hunt (which starts mid-late & after Redfield is finished blooming).
I’ll probably order some MM106 from Raintree or elsewhere to see how it performs. Am stooling my own Geneva 30 (not many shoots, but reliable each year) M26 (probably last time around; swelling at the graft union becomes a problem) and will start stooling Budagovsky 118 next year.
Arkansas Black is pretty safe from coddling moth…but is a skimpy bearer in my experience.
My Arkansas Black is biennial — a lot of fruit one year, nothing next. I’m not a big fan of its flavor though, King David (supposedly AB’s progeny) is much better IMO.
That is one I plan to graft next spring. How is it for pc’s? I had never heard that before about anything not bothered by codling moth.
I own Honeysweet, the impression I get is that the rootsock can greatly affect how young a Honeysweet tree produces, after 4 seasons of no edible fruit it appears that 2020 will be the first year that it produces edible fruit, fifth season is not bad considering 4th season is the soonest that the variety supposedly can produce it’s first edible crop, eventually the fruit is great and very high production, here is a link on my forum to information about it
I want to buy 8-1-338 and paulk muscadine, but no nursery has been found.
This Nursery claims that they will be selling ‘paulk muscadine’ soon, look at the last page https://www.isons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/2020-Catalog.pdf
I cover most of my apples with orchard socks bought from Home Orchard Society. No need for this action with Redfield or Hunt R. Neither is a big tree with full crops yet, but so far nary a single worm.
I’m ordering apple, peach, pear, and persimmon rootstocks. Red Haven peach scion, plus whatever I don’t manage to trade for from Willoughby black currant, 1301 white currant, and Harrison apple. I may also get some figs or honeyberries, but I also might wait another year.
Ive been eyeing redfield for years. Lower moth susc makes it a notch more appealing
I was going to wait until January, but decided to go ahead and order a Prok American persimmon. File this in “almost 2020”.
Redfield came here via bench graft from Maple Valley Orchards, in Wisconsin, on M26 (maybe EMLA26).
The tree spreads pretty fast & I’d hoped to put it in a narrow spot, so moved it to a neighboring front yard. I planted it deeply so it would begin creating its own roots. Caring for it is a bit trickier this way, but the foliage & bloom are both ornamental; fruits nearly black with color outside. Inside the flesh is very red about 2/3 in from the skin.
I also grafted from this li’l tree to Geneva 202 some years back & transplanted it to an orchard near town. That tree is still mostly upright, offering a sample fruit this year. My friends took a bite & she said to him, “Oh honey, cider!” It also makes glorious pie.
Redfield blooms earliest, is frost tolerant then, is PSF or SF. I’ve not seen disease, apart from some scab on foliage, bears young so one might be prudent to strip it until it reaches size, ripens first half of October. It is reputed to keep only 4 weeks. Not enough fruit on it yet - moving both has slowed growth a year or so - to find the limits of storage potential.
We grafted Honeysweet to OHxF333 this spring and it’s grown well for us so far. If I remember correctly, the variety was originally developed in NH so perhaps it’s happier in the Northeast (or similar climates) than in Kansas.
Thank you for posting the link, mamuang. Very interesting, though I do have some questions about the Waimea list. In particular, I see that they identify Kidd’s Orange Red as a tip-bearer and therefore advise against using it for espalier, but other knowledgeable sources describe Kidd’s as a spur-bearer:
Keepers actually describes Kidd’s as “free-spurring” and offers it for sale in a variety of espalier forms.
In response to @Plum’s question: of the varieties you mention, I think that I would choose Ashmead and Cox for espalier, but as mamuang says, there’s also the question of what’s going to work best in your particular climate.