How close is too close for granular 2/4D?

We all know that 2/4d can be rough on trees, just ask Kevin. I’ve had great success using it on my lawn to control broad leaf weeds. I’ve used it on my front lawn which had no fruit trees. My back lawn and side lawn is like a salad bar and needs some help. My side lawn however is where I have my small orchard. It is on a gentle slope. Since it’s not spray I should not have the same problems Kevin did, but was wondering about any type of run off. If I were to put this down 15 feet up slope of my orchard would there be any impacts after a rain? Is 2/4D taken up by the trees roots? Obviously it has a follier impact and is taken in through the leaves. But curious about fruit tree root. I’ve put down granular 2/4D up against hardwood trees and shrubs and never had any problems. The slope if very gentle and I suspect it would enter the soil rather than running off barring a torrential rain.

Dave, Most granular weed and feeds are a three-way product on a fertilizer base. Common herbicides used are 2,4-D, dicamba, and mcpp. This gives a very broad range of control of broadleaf plants. Dicamba(Banvel) and mcpp(mecoprop) have root activity.
I think a better question for City is, how close is too close? Answer is, When your plants are damaged.

I don’t mean to be a smart ass on this question, but why risk your fruit and all the labor that goes into producing it because a dandelion has dared grow under your trees?

I used these products professionally for 35+ years and was the technician in a spray drift experiment at Iowa State. These products will show up where you don’t want them and at the worst possible time. ‘Murphy’s herbicide law’.

Good luck, my friend, but broadleaf herb never goes around my trees and I scream and yell at every lawn care operator in the neighborhood.


I’m with @Chikn. I used liqiud 24D for years to spot treat for dollar weed. This was before I planted all of my fruit trees…after reading the thread about the guy who had all of the problems I’ve stopped using it entirely. best weed prevention is a thick lawn so I just keep it well fertilized. Still have some dollar weed here and there, but I can live with it…

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I hear you and I know it could be damaging if misused. Just trying to figure out what is safe And what is not.

Ive always heard that the best way to a weed free lawn is thick grass. Unfortunately there isn’t any grass there. It’s like a salad bar. I plan to power seed it in September but it’s advised to take care of the weeds first.

What about solarizing the area during the summer first? You’d have an area of dead vegetation until you seed, but it would keep your trees safe.

If it was a small area I’d definitely do that but it is too large of an area for that. Upwards of 3/4 acre.

What about clover?

I couldn’t get my lawn healthy enough to keep weeds back, but last year I deliberately mowed around the thickest clover and let it establish in the hopes of improving the hard red clay. This year about 50% is clover and about 50% thick grass. I understand it’s debatable whether the clover isn’t just another weed, but it stays an even height, shades the brick pavement I try to grow trees in, and in my opinion is helping me transition from hardwood forest and hardpack to suburban orchard.

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I agree clover is a good thing not just for height but also for fixing nitrogen. The bees like white dutch clover but alfalfa would work as well. Red clover is good but bees can’t make honey from it because the florets are to deep. Since I have a bunch of clover I will just mention you need a very good mower because it will put it to the test. It’s thick and lush and with rain on it becomes near impossible to mow.

Bumbles love the red clover