I’ve lost two trees to evil flathead [apple?] borers over the last few years, and I’ve seen information about using this to control them
But I hesitate, because I and my family are going to be eating most of the fruit from these trees. It doesn’t seem safe
Imidacloprid is also very bad for any pollinating insects. I used it in my greenhouse one time and killed the bumblebees I brought in for pollination for the next 4 yrs. Those bees cost $150 each yr. It killed the bees one yr after application. So I hand pollinated the next 2 yrs. Then it still knocked down the bees in yr four.
Whats the best way to deal with flathead apple bores, I am also having major problems?
Good to know
I did know you couldn’t use it until bees were gone, but it’s a shock to know it persists in the tree for so long
Not only does it persist that long it didn’t kill the black weevil grubs or scale which I used it for.
this insecticide is currently the most effective there (at least in Europe), its security within 21 days and logically must throw in the trees when no bees or flowers open (like all insecticides).
the flathead apple bores(Bigheaded worm)It is killed when a larva or tiny worm, this worm is two years comiendose the base of the trunk of our tree until they die.
you must make a hole around the trunk of your tree and take in the water hole and Imidacloprid 20%,This product kills young larvae on the neck of your tree (no need to treat the leaves).
if we have a lot plague for many years in stone fruit rootstocks can be used as the bitter almond, this worm hates the bitter almond and the base of its trunk does not eat
I’m pretty sure that this is what the arborist is using on the ash trees
We had 4 ash trees and opted not to treat one of them that I never liked in the first place
That tree died and was taken out in 2015 - the other three are still alive and healthy
But then, I don’t eat ash seeds
I would think that any systemic would be bad news in your enclosed environment.
Then don’t use it. On the otherhand, I use it on my crops. Further, it is nearly impossible to buy commercial citrus grown in the U.S. that hasn’t been treated with Imadacloprid - it is a required control for ACP. To meet the requirement, I am using Bayer Leverage 360.
I recently used an Imidacloprid drench for my newly-grafted scions onto rootstock. All the bugs in my garden seemed to chomp on them every time I turned my back, and I got tired of incessant spraying, so I decided on the drench. And honestly, it’s worked better than I could have ever expected. Hardly any bug damage, no aphids, etc. I was feeling extremely pleased with the outcome.
I figured they probably wouldn’t bear fruit for at least 3 years, giving the imidacloprid plenty of time to wear off . Now I’m seeing from @fruitnut that it can kill bees for up to five years?
I am hoping his situation was an outlier, because I would not want to hurt any pollinators. I wanted to see if anyone else used an imidacloprid drench, and what your results were.
I decided against it, for that reason
I’m in an Asian Citrus Psyllid quarantine zone and required to use it every 90 days.
Do you notice any harm to the pollinators? Although I guess you might only notice that if you have your own hives or rent them.
It is recommended here to use it the first of May after pollination is over. I alternate yearly between lorsban and imadicloprid. I don’t have pollinator problems from year old applications and my pollinator garden has plenty of native bees, butterflies, moths ,wasps,etc.
No. The local bee populations are thriving – to the point that bee hive relocation services are thriving.