Introducing myself with pictures

It will just make it mad.

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Mine gets mad enough to grow right in the cloth, then pulling the whole mess up is a heavy chore.

The only thing I’ve found that works reasonably well on bermuda grass is concrete. If you lay down 4 inches of concrete on top of bermuda grass, the grass directly below the concrete will either die, go into suspended animation, or start sneaking out from under the concrete. The grass that sneaks out however is in a weakened condition having used the energy from the roots to get out and the new growth is more susceptible to death from conventional measures. I’ve found that one of the worst ways to deal with bermuda grass is through solarization. The solarization will kill all top growth and the roots of most plants, but the bermuda roots grow low enough to escape the heat and will just wait for you to take the plastic cover off after everything else is killed, and then they attack. It’s not pretty. The bermuda grass then has no competition at all and will go crazy. If you plan on using roundup on bermuda grass, the best way to use it is to take the bottle and just try to beat the bermuda grass to a pulp, because the roundup spray won’t do anything to it. It’s even possible that bermuda grass might be able to extract nutrients from the roundup spray.

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Meaning deep, and they’re not just roots – they grow rhyzomes too!

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Roundup works well if applied at the right time and with grass in the right condition. It won’t do much in spring but in the fall can provide excellent control but probably not eradication. In the fall bermuda is storing carbs in the roots. The idea is to send along a heavy dose of roundup as well.

I’ve had some good results and once grew an orchard in solid bermuda. I was spaying only a strip down the tree row. That was common bermuda. There are more aggressive kinds here. It helps if one holds down on nitrogen and water. Not nearly as aggressive in that case.

In the summer there is no water here. Temperatures are frequently above 100. My “soil” is decomposed granite and rocks and clay. It has very few nutrients of any kind. Star thistle doesn’t even like it. In the summer, the bermuda grass grows like, well, weeds. It apparently does not need water or nutrients. I wouldn’t know how bermuda does in the Fall because we don’t have Fall here. My initial post is somewhat tongue in cheek but I’m not joking when I say that after you spray the bermuda grass with roundup, you only see a little (very little) browning of the growing tips. It doesn’t matter when you spray it. After that the bermuda grass apparently gets pissed off and starts growing even faster to make up for the damage.

Bermuda doesn’t grow rampantly without plenty of water and nutrients. And I’ve killed the tops dozens of times totally brown at all times summer and fall. It’s killing 100% of the roots that’s difficult.

Maybe you aren’t spraying enough material. It takes a lot more than small annual weeds.

@castanea - my experience with the growth of bermuda grass is the same as yours. However, consider that clay contains a lot of basic nutrients and if the bermuda grass roots and rhysomes have burrowed deep enough there is moist soil down there. Check an evapotransporation depth map for your area.

I agree with @fruitnut and @garybeaumont that dosage and multiple applications are key. Read the label! In my experience Turflon Ester does a better job than Glyphosate (roundup), plus the dosage and overall cost is less.

@amh0001, welcome aboard! Looks like you’re heading in the right direction by following DWN BYOC concepts and by signing up here. :slight_smile:

I grew up eating all kinds of loquats from a number of Valley areas, and currently only have ‘Champagne’ and ‘Big Jim’. I’m not much of a connoisseur, but have to say that BJ is my favorite loquat ever. The flavor is on the citrusy side and the size is substantial enough to be a viable snack food. Most loquats are small and barely worth the effort in my opinion. Thinning the clusters a bit to maximize size and reduce the fruit load on the tree has worked well for me. They harvest in a window where oranges are wrapping up and before blueberries are ramping up. There just isn’t much fresh eating to be had in that window. Since it’s still a “minor” fruit, it can be grown in the front yard as a handsome ornamental where the fruit goes virtually unnoticed by poacher :eyes:.

Ditto!

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This is really off topic so this is my last post on this topic. I started using roundup on bermuda grass 27 years ago just as everyone says I should use it and it did next to nothing. The bermuda grass has spread since then despite getting no rain and no supplemental water from April to November every year, and despite growing in some of the worst soil you can imagine.

Bermuda is forever unless you absolutely smother it. I use sheets of cardboard and thick layers of mulch. It can be done.

Maybe you should say Roundup hasn’t worked for me and leave it at that.

I can say that Glyphosate hasn’t worked for me on bermuda grass in a variety of southern CA locations – and I was following the manufacturers’ labels.

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The problem with simply saying that roundup hasn’t worked, is that everyone then wants to tell me what to do, assuming that I have no experience with roundup, and that I can’t read. It gets a little old. I’ve been growing fruit trees for 27 years this July. This is not my first rodeo. I would take some photos of my semi dormant bermuda grass but we’ve had about 5 inches of rain in the last 36 hours and it’s still pouring.

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I had a large home orchard in common Bermuda in Amarillo Texas from 1976 to 1994. I never regretted having Bermuda even once. And it wasn’t hard to keep out of the tree row using 2 to 3 Roundup sprays each yr. No other herbicide.

I have a much more aggressive Bermuda here in Alpine TX. I’ve tried to wipe it out and failed. But haven’t had an issue keeping it away from the fruit trees.

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@fruitnut – I believe it! I’m noticing the winter freezes in Amarillo.

Amarillo TX Average Temperatures:

Vista CA Average Temperatures:

When I lived north of Abilene, the Bermuda would die out in the yard in the dry years but enough would survive to cover back over when it rained again. When sprigging Bermuda it is considered a stand if it averages one live sprig every 3 feet. If done in early spring, it will be ready to cut for hay in the fall.
If you are not getting a cold winter, then spraying in the fall may not work since the Bermuda is not going to go dormant. Many ranchers spray roundup at 1 quart per acre in the spring on their bermuda grass hay fields for a weed control.
When building a raised bed, I would remove all the sod on inch down. Bermuda spreads through stolons. not underground rhyzomes like blackberries. I would build the raised bed about an inch in the ground and then remove all the bermuda on the outside about six inches. Then I would fill in with soil that had no bermuda and make sure there is not any gaps for the bermuda to find a way in(cracks and gaps). If you do not remove all the stolons on the bermudagrass before adding new soil it will find a way to get to the top. The bermuda that comes up from seed is easy to pull out.

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@garybeaumont, I think what you’ve written is great advice and an insight to bermuda as a crop – I never would have guessed! I think though in my environment that “removing sod one inch down” is not far enough. My evapotranspiration depth is simply too shallow, so two feet is the norm to clear out any possible sources of live plant material.

Richard, you would only need to get the stolons out, not the roots.

In sandy areas, when the Bermuda gets a little stagnant, they will moldboard the entire field. This consist of turning the ground upside down to a dept of about 12 inches. As long as there is good moisture, the stolons will grow up from a depth of 12 inches and form a good sod. This is done on hybrid bermuda, not the seeding type.

I have heard that in very sandy areas of East Texas they have found roots from bermuda ten feet deep.It can be a really aggressive grass. Unless, of course, you want to get a stand for hay. It really likes nitrogen.