They can be air-layered. I have had some success but it takes a while to get them going. You can also have success with root cuttings. @jujubemulberry does this a lot.
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yeah, am guilty as charged 
and admittedly a rootstock snob (now solely propagating jujus on their own roots)
and if have to graft to rootstock the rootstock should be that of a self_rooted known cultivar.
thought sharing video below
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Thanks for the video. Very informative.
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youāre welcome, and thanks for the vote of confidence 
thought mentioning, of the common varieties weāve managed to clone on their own roots, the cultivar chico has the highest success rates when propagating via root cuttings. Most root cuttings usually need to be at least 0.3cm thick(at its thickest portion) and about a foot long overall linear length(a 4 inch long root cutting at its longest measurment but with two branches measuring 3 inches each would be equivalent to ~10ā linear length) with ample fine root hairs to leaf out once severed from mother tree. Chico root cuttings can be half that thickness and length with hardly any root hairs may still manage leafing out.
hj needs to be at least 0.5cm thick with plenty fine root hairs.
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How about airlayers? Can airlayers take on jujubes?
yes, had higher rates of success with airlayers than with cuttings. Practically 100% success rate. Even suspect i dont even need to apply iba on airlayers but never really tried it without
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Thanks Raf, thatās great to know about this!
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youre welcome, keep everyone here posted 
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I had success with a pestle, you just need confidence and a lot of seeds 
hit medium hard (harder than you think but donāt go crazy) and once you get it, itās like riding a bike. I now can crack cherry, nectarine and jujube seeds 
Iāve found a very small c clamp vice (loke you might use for small crafts) works pretty well: soak the pits overnight, then put a pit into the clamp and slowly tighten with the clamp close enough to your ear to hear the pit when it starts to Crack.
Once you hear it crack, only go another quarter or half turn or so, then release it from the clamp and pry the pieces of the pit away until you can shake the seed loose.
So, in the 12 days since the first few Sugar Cane ripened, Iāve also gotten some from another Sugar Cane (at a 2nd property), though several other Sugar Cane havenāt had any ripe yet.
Hereās some of the fruit from the 2nd Sugar Cane. Still pretty early, but they have at least a bit of brown on them, so they are fair game. Later in the season Iād want at least half brown, but at this point I canāt be that picky! Note all the cracks- itās been raining a lot for the last month, but most of the cracks are from the rains this week.
Today, the first non-sugar Canes (a half dozen Honey Jar) ripened. I didnāt get any pics, as they were eaten too quickly. So, Honey Jar is the #2 earliest cultivar this year. But, I think that is at least partly due to the Mei Mi and BV1 trees being transplanted this spring. That tends to set them backā¦And I have a lot of Honey Jar trees without any ripe fruit yet.
Black Sea can be reasonably early and I have several trees with massive fruit loads this year. But none of them have ripened yet.
A few pics of good fruit loads:
Da Bai Ling. From the genetic testing, DBL should be substantively the same as Li, but this one is pretty big and productive. Of course, it is only ~10 feet away from a massive blackberry plant which has outproduced my other 20-30 plants put together. So, maybe there is something special about this location (soil, drainage, fence on NE and NW, etc). I have another DBL tree which has never produced very much (more like most of my Li).
This seedling was pretty early last year, so it wouldnāt surprise me if I get some ripe ones in the next week or two.
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