I’ve decided to move in another direction with my rootstock selection and decided to give the M106 a try this coming grafting season and with that I’m interested in reading what some of our members have found using this particular rootstock.
I’ve lost my records from my original apple plantings in 1991, but as I recall only one or two were M106 …. the reason being the advice I could find suggested a need for good drainage and my spots ooze water out of the hillside all winter. Most of my original trees were M7, and they mostly all leaned a few degrees away from prevailing winds, but none ever fell over. Only the Fuji did well with no attention hardly.
The three standard trees planted at that time…one is thriving and looks to have many decades left. the other two, not vigorous…but hanging in there.
I think I had a Liberty on M106 that surprised me with a crop the second year. But, the apples were too sour for fresh eating, and eventually the tree got sprayed as it was close to the right of way.
For home use, a big apple tree with keepers is a treasure, if a person has the room. My mom’s 42 year old (standard) Winesap had a heavy crop, and lost a big limb this year.
Actually going to get one of them from the refrigerator to share for Thanksgiving dinner.
I take it that your in a much warmer climate if your land tends to ouzzz water at this ( winter ) time of the year?
Yes, …. we run our waterfalls/goldfish ponds 24/7/365 here as well. ( z. 6b)
Prone to collar rot (and fire blight that probably is not a problem in zone 4). Why not use M111?
If your soil is well drained ? M-106 is a good rootstock.
It has preformed well here ,
have had colller rot on poorly drained sites, usually within 2-3 years of planting, only loses on the most poorly drained areas. ( a low spot, in wet clay )
Recommend planting on a small mound.
Other wise it has been good,
Compared to M-111…M-106 is…;
Less vigorous ,so less pruning , earlier Bering , a large tree, but more well behaved . Free standing , no fire blight issues.
Not a good Choice On poorly drained soil.
Most of my trees are on M-111 which thrives on my heavy red clay, but at times are too vigorous , hard to manage the growth, they want to be big ! Late Bering , but productive !
M -111 is my Prefered stock
I considered the M111 but it looked like that rootstock started sending lateral branches at a much higher height/distance then the M106 ?
The M106 less vigorous character really was more important to me then the M111 more vigorous disposition. I’ve only worked with the M7 an M26 to date. Not a fan of burr knots associated with the M26 and I don’t like the M7 leaning tendencies.